Whirlpool Washing Machines - Page 11 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You confused it's logic board with too much stuff going on. Try this; Unplug it from the wall. Remove the drain hose and lower it into a bucket. FULLY empty the machine. Now turn it on. Run a full cycle without stopping or starting. That should reset the logic board. Here is your manual in case you need it. https://www.manualslib.com/products/Whirlpool-Wtw4800xq1-2924542.html ..

O.K. Is the water draining out properly? If the filter is blocked then your washing will be churning in dirty water as the machine will drain for a maximum time then rinse etc. in the used water.

try this link..Pull down on the bottom panel and pull it away from the washer. Reach through the open panel and up to the door lock. Find the release ring below the locking mechanism. Pull down on the ring to unlock the door.

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Most probable cause would be the start capacitor. Most modern machines would not start if the lid is not properly closed. It detects thru the lid switch.

never tried it this is a ffixing help forum not a bypass site

BEst solution is a local repair service . it possibly has a bad control board

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Whirlpool GHW9200LW Front Load Washer 12 Cycle, 5 Temperature Ultra Plus Capacity ,Energy Star Qualified : Dove Grey on White. Machine Type‎: ‎Standard Series‎: ‎Gold

Could be a defective fill valve. Expect some hot water if you are using powder detergent.

It could be that the load is not balanced or a kinked hose for the washing machine or the drive belt could be broken. A person that repairs washing machines would need to take a look at our washing machine.

factory problem,but it wont effect the washers performance. they skimped out on the paint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GuCFzbt9w

water pressure switch No agitation? first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( If No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad coupler can be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator. Also check THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well. for worn broken teeth By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

NOT SURE WHAT YOUR SAYING NOT FINISH CYCLE? DO U MEAN IT DOES NOT GO INTO THE DRAIN OR RINSE AND OR SPIN CYCLE? Washer will not drain: The drain water pump is the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure to check the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself inside of it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Read more:  HYPERLINK "http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/" l "ixzz3X2LbXMWJ" http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machine drain hose is where the water flows through to get the water out. If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the water from the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it The water pump belt (to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose. If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing the NO DRAIN issue and remove and replace if needed. If the lid switch is not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems). This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to also not agitate or spin. However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuity My advice is free cuz God is good! WASHER WILL NOT RINSE: If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle. This is because when you selected your water temperature, you may have selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing. The item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test. Another test u can do to check the water inlet valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed. . If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. TIMER If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing. Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

calla local repair service

Whirlpool washers give the F6 E1 error when there is a communication error between the motor control unit and the main control unit. First try a basic reset. Unplug the washer (or turn off the power at the circuit breaker). Wait at least one minute and then plug it back in. (Alternatively, turn the circuit breaker on.) Try running the washer. If the error returns after a minute, you'll need to determine where the problem is. Unplug the washer. First check the wiring, including the ground switches. Loose or damaged wiring or corrosion at a wiring harness is a possibility. (Check ground connections and plug wiring, as well.) Next for continuity across all of the wiring. Sometimes these thin wires can break but the insulation on the wire makes it look like it's still intact. Check across the CCU (main control), motor control unit and the motor itself. Replace the wiring harness if the continuity test fails. Check that the wiring harness connections are tight. Check the drive system for wear. Replace any damaged parts that could result in the motor working too hard (pulling too much current). If the wiring, motor and tub support system are fine, either the motor control board is faulty or the CCU is faulty. The MCU fails more often, unless you have a surge to the appliance. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

No parts are replaceable within the pump. Buy a new pump.

I have a Whirlpool Duet, though possibly a different model. I had the same question. I finally figured it out. On p. 14 of the manual, there is a section "To drain the washer manually". This says to select the RINSE/DRAIN & SPIN cycle and deselect the EXTRA RINSE option. In this case it cancels ALL rinsing for the cycle. This is how you get a spin-only cycle! Talk about idiotic, obscure user-interface design and bad manual writing!!! Didn't they think people would want clear instructions how to get a spin-only cycle? If you have trouble with things being too wet after washing & needing an extra spin, you should try lowering the spin speed when you wash. This is what the BULKY setting does. If you have an unbalanced load, the washer cannot get up to the high spin speed the normal cycle calls for, and it is so dumb that it gives up and gives you a soaking wet load at the end instead.

There are two screws. See part 21 in the cabinet section Parts for Whirlpool CHW8990CW0: Top and Cabinet Parts - AppliancePartsPros.com