U-Line Refrigerators - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to a better category.. The Thermistor has failed or is failing. It is the temperature sensor that is basically your electronic thermostat. Troubleshooting Guide: U-Line Refrigerator Error Codes U-Line refrigerator troubleshooting begins with cracking the codes. Let's take a look at U-Line brand error codes.

Error Code ER

Diagnosis: Thermistor 1 is open Explanation: The U-Line refrigerator error code ER is alerting you to a failed thermistor. Thermistors are used for various temperature readings. These provide reliable temperature readings using a resistance which varies based on surrounding temperatures. If you have a U-Line wine cooler, for example, it will include ambient temperature surrounding the refrigerator unit. If the thermistor 1 fails, the refrigerator will continue to operate on a preset 10 minutes on and 30 minutes off time interval. Solution: Use an accurate ohm meter to test the thermistor. If the thermistor is defective, have it replaced. https://www.google.com/search?q=uline+u-2115wcs+thermistor ..

Check with your local appliance repair shop. They may have what you need out back or know where you find the part you need. They might even have after market parts cheaper.

I would think it would matter if board isn’t same as old one.

Put it in the off position. Turn the knob to the right. If the refrigerator comes on then continue to turn the knob to the right until you get to the temperature you want.The more you turn to then right colder it should be. Turning it back makes it warmer.

Since you did not mention what make it is . Its usually dirt in your door seal causing your refridgirator to understand its not closed since its not sealing properly . clean the door seals and try . Or there is a technical glitch in electrical system and you need a repairman . Also there is usually a way to disable the alarm and you need to check your user manual for that to disable it ill its fixed

sounds like temp what is temp of cold plate under im needs 10deg f or lower

the condensate drain pump will shut unit down and only run drain pump if over fill is seen may be noise you are hearing if condensate pump removed has to be wired so kill switch in drain pump is over ridden for gravity drain

1.800.779.2547 u-line

Probably the main board is bad.

ICE CUBES IN ICE MAKER HAVE LIKLEY SHRUNK AND ARE NOW JAMMED IN ICE MAKER INSTEAD OF FALLING OUT CHECK THE ICE MAKER FOR JAMMED CUBE

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE" Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

Check for a blocked drain or failed drain pump (if it uses one.)

That would be normal if the day is very humid. Any cold surface will change the water in the air to a liquid. Like steamed up glass when you shower.

there must be a glazier business in the town to repair windows etc so go there with the length and width measurements and the thickness should be no less than 1/4 " or 6 mm to carry the shelf load as the shop for a recommended glass thickness but I would not go under 6 mm and make sure that the edges are sander to get rid of sharp edges

*If* you're lucky. It could be a defrost timer switch, compressor, pressure switch, low refrigerant due to a leak, etc.

The first thing to check would be the condenser coils. Not sure where it is on your model, but when they collect dust, they do not allow the fridge to cool down correctly. It will be on the back of the fridge. Either running down from top to bottom or will be at the back behind the lower panel. If the condenser fan is running, then the coil is probably dirty. Unless someone has accidentally moved the temperature setting inside the fridge.

Check circuit breaker/fuse in back of refrigerator usually located in the rear of the frige behind the panel where the electrical cord disappears.

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This may sound silly, but when was the last time you've had your hearing checked? Base + high treble are the 1st to go;

You could try turning the thermostat to a colder setting and if it doesn't turn on it could either be the thermostat, no power to the frig, or if you hear a hum but no compressor noise then it is likely the starting circuitry to the compressor or the compressor itself is bad.