U-Line Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

No where can I find anyone who has solved Uline Echelon ice maker harvesting issues. My Clr 2060 only now produces 1" solid slabs. In harvesting cycle, will not release individual cubes. Anyone fix this problem? vlog

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to a better category.. The Thermistor has failed or is failing. It is the temperature sensor that is basically your electronic thermostat. Troubleshooting Guide: U-Line Refrigerator Error Codes U-Line refrigerator troubleshooting begins with cracking the codes. Let's take a look at U-Line brand error codes.

Error Code ER

Diagnosis: Thermistor 1 is open Explanation: The U-Line refrigerator error code ER is alerting you to a failed thermistor. Thermistors are used for various temperature readings. These provide reliable temperature readings using a resistance which varies based on surrounding temperatures. If you have a U-Line wine cooler, for example, it will include ambient temperature surrounding the refrigerator unit. If the thermistor 1 fails, the refrigerator will continue to operate on a preset 10 minutes on and 30 minutes off time interval. Solution: Use an accurate ohm meter to test the thermistor. If the thermistor is defective, have it replaced. https://www.google.com/search?q=uline+u-2115wcs+thermistor ..

The mold heater is bad on this unit.

IM USE A 1/4 INCH WATER LINE LOOK FOR A SINK OR WASHER CLOUSE BY AND ATACH TO THE HOT WATER LIND IF YOU HAVE LIME IN YOUR STATE IF NOT USE THE COLD WATER RUNTHE HOSE INSIDE THE CAVINET TO HIDE THE HOSE.

I had to hold Power for 10+ seconds (until last "F" flashes, quickly let go of Power, then press and hold it again and while holding it pres the light three times.The process doesn't follow the manual's instructions at all. Their older model units with the physical on/off/clean selector switch was much more reliable than their new 2160 with touch screen controls!

Question edited for clarity, maker. Question moved from Watches to U-Line Wine Fridge. They are usually an expanding plug. You push it to the hole and press the central pin. If you can grip it with pliers, you can pull it out. The other way is to use a nail punch and push the pin all the way through, pull out the support and retrieve the pin from the insulated cavity. https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=U-Line+wine+fridge+shelf+support&i=tools&crid=6P110ETE4YHD&sprefix=u-line+wine+fridge+shelf+support%2Ctools%2C69&ref=nb_sb_noss https://www.google.com/search?q=u-line+wine+fridge+shelf+supports ..

The fact that the compressor is two years old does not mean it cannot break down again, give more details on the problem to troubleshoot further

because it is an automatic machine

Hello, I followed your instructions, hold the up arrow and at the same time press and release the light bulb 3 times and then up arrow to 3, got the Er codes E3 and E5, now I'm trying to do the last step to go back to refrigeration cycle and it doesn't work. Help?

Sorry for the delay in responding...

Most models have the valve located at the back of the machine on the lower left hand side(viewed from the front). You may have to remove the entire back cover via the hex head screws to get at it. (some models have the valve located behind the front toe kick panel.)

First follow the waterline to determine the location of the valve within the fridge. If it is at the front then the toekick panel will have to be removed. If there are no visible screws then it is most likely a clip on style. If there is a knob for temperature setting then the knob may have to be pulled off first.
If there is a smaller cardboard panel at the bottom rear of the fridge remove it and you should see the valve. If not then remove the entire back cover by removing the screws along the rear perimeter of the fridge. The panel may stick to the back of the fridge but gently pull and it will remove. The valve should now be seen and can be disconnected.

Be sure to unplug the machine first and turn off the water supply. There will still be some pressure in the waterline so have a towel ready.

The valve itself is available online, I think the correct one is located at: http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=832567&PPStack=1

Just be sure to verify that it is the right one before ordering.

Check with your local appliance repair shop. They may have what you need out back or know where you find the part you need. They might even have after market parts cheaper.

Tell him to first fill ref-regent gas in compressor cause if does not have enough the comp will over heat a cut of .

I would think it would matter if board isn’t same as old one.

Put it in the off position. Turn the knob to the right. If the refrigerator comes on then continue to turn the knob to the right until you get to the temperature you want.The more you turn to then right colder it should be. Turning it back makes it warmer.

Use a good level and ensure that the unit is not tilted forward, it should be tilted to the rear slightly. The side to side should be level.

Since you did not mention what make it is . Its usually dirt in your door seal causing your refridgirator to understand its not closed since its not sealing properly . clean the door seals and try . Or there is a technical glitch in electrical system and you need a repairman . Also there is usually a way to disable the alarm and you need to check your user manual for that to disable it ill its fixed