Toro Garden - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Next step would be to check the ignition module(coil),I have a lawnmower that uses the same 2 cycle engine. Check coil for spark by removing the spark plug from the block then connect the insulator side of the sparkplug back to the coil then ground the plug by touching the threaded side to the block away from the sparkplug hole while turning the engine over. Should see a spark, if not you'll need a new coil,not hard to replace. calls for Briggs & Stratton #80-1268 you can also use a Toro/Lawnboy coil #99-2911 or #99-2916 or #684049.

If it was bought locally, I would take it in and ask if they will do you a deal. A few pebbles shouldn't break it. They can get the parts for free under a warranty repair, you pay the labour. The fan impeller is $23 on Amazon. https://www.google.com/search?q=toro+f700+blower+replace+fan ..

Find where it is leaking from, replace gaskets and/or seals. It does appear to be a known issue https://www.google.com/search?q=toro+621+leaking+oil ..

Are you referring to the right control handle not staying locked if you release it when you have the left one squeezed down? It is a very common problem in the newer toro blowers. It is a poor design. The little spring steel tab won't lock into the cam on the right-side handle. Being under warranty, call your dealer and have them correct it. You need to remove the twist coil spring that latches under the handle. The spring is far too strong which makes the handle tiring to hold down and the interlock to fail. However, please have the dealer do the job so you do not void your warranty.

YOU ARE CUTTING TO TALL OF GRASS

Electric Start model? Guessing your battery is low. https://www.toro.com/getpub/20965 https://www.google.com/search?q=toro+824+snowblower+beeping ..

Starter stall... the OHV engine requires periodic valve adjustment.

The OHV engine requires periodic valve clearance adjustment. See Toro engine service.

https://www.toro.com/getpub/70680

Intake .004
Exhaust .006

Check hydraulic level and leak detector.

Toro electric weed eater has cap very tight & can't unlock

there is a button on the end of the shaft. it can be tight sometimes so a large pair of channel locks might help. turn the button counter-clockwise, and the pull the spool head off.

VALVES MIGHT NEED ADJUSTED

Zero turn mower not turning correctly. - YouTube Zero turn not turning - YouTube

It is circuit protection for the RUN state (not OFF) input to the electronic control module. Use an ohm meter and check for a direct short to battery negative.

If direct short to battery negative, disconnect cable at control module. If still shorted then cable is shorted to frame. Look for abrasions (short to frame ground) along the W/BK wire. Otherwise control module is likely bad but requires further testing.

Wiring schematic is in the manual.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1225890/Toro-Procore-648.html

Hi,

Does the sector gear turn when you turn the wheel?

Does the steering shaft fit tight in the bushing and does the bushing fit tight in the housing?





The middle of the pinion should be in line with the sector gear. Is this how it is? Did you have the the steering wheel off and check the splines in the wheel? Is the pinion gear turning?

Let me know,so that we could proceed further.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

POS. The cap is totally stuck. Why Toro decided that this was a good design is beyond me. Time to buy a new trimmer.

The wiring diagram shows safety circuit logic as; While brake OFF, operator must be in seat else kill engine. So I don't believe it's a safety circuit issue.

If it's not a safety circuit then most likely engine performance. The twin v cylinder engines can seemingly run ok on one cylinder until the load from the mower deck is applied and then they sputter and die.

To determine if this is the case, disconnect one spark plug wire and try to start. If it runs then reconnect the plug wire and disconnect the opposite cylinder plug wire. If it runs then it is firing on both cylinder and further troubleshooting is necessary.

If it fails to run with either plug wire removed then theres a dead cylinder, the cause of your issue.

The automatic brake actuator provides for the start solenoid return path to battery negative, i.e. the green wire. The brake actuator must be in a "BRAKE ON" state or engine cranking is disallowed.

If you measure battery voltage at the solenoid green wire then likely the brake actuator is not in a "BRAKE ON" state.

With engine off and key in on/run position you should hear the brake actuator move from brake on/off/on with control arms out/in/out movements.

Check the anti afterfire solenoid is energized while ignition switch is in the run position.

Try draining the carburetor fuel bowl. If it runs after draining fuel bowl then empty the fuel tank(s) as that will be where the water is.

Dont forget to empty the carb bowl after draining tanks. It will take a few seconds of cranking after draining the fuel bowl as the fuel pump needs to refill the carb bowl.

If the rapid clicking is coming from the solenoid or starter, it sounds like your ignition key switch is broken internally. Something is making and breaking the starter connection due to the vibration of the engine running.