Price Pfister Plumbing - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

The installation instructions show that the collar on each of the two flexible lines can be pushed/pulled back (away from the diverter valve) to release the lines. It is not that easy! I got my lines off and back on again without leaks, but I sure had to pull hard on that collar to pull the lines from the diverter valve.

The best way to remove a clog is to physically remove it rather than using Draino, lye, etc. Here's two ways. The first way is better1) look under the sink for the drain pipe. There should be a "P-Trap", a curved pipe shaped like a P turned on its side. If it is white plastic you can unscrew by hand or with wrench/ channel locks. Unscrew it and look in and get the stuff out. Then put it back, making sure to go just hand tight. If its chrome, same as above but use wrench2) if going under sink is a little freaky for you, then get one of those As Seen on TV clog removers for sinks. Its a long piece with barbs that catch hair, etc. The problem is you have to remove your popup before you use that thing. Thats done by unscrewing connection underneath.

For a standard seat replacement you will need to shut off water and remove stem. Below the stem is the seat. It will either have a square center hole or hexagonal hole. If you don't have a seat wrench, you can get one at the hardware store when you pick up your replacement seats and washers. The new seats might not have the same inside type hole, so buying a tool that has both styles would be helpfull. Insert the correct seat tool into the seat and turn counter clockwise to remove seat. Reverse this to install new seat. Be sure to put a small amount of of pipe joint compound on the seat threads before installing. Replace the stem washers and reinstall on faucet. Make sure you take off the aerator or shower head and flush debris from system when you turn on the water. If your valve is a wall mount faucet with horizontal stems, you will need to take the faucet off at the union nuts and replace the seats from the back side of valve body. Remember, Lefty Loosy and Righty Tighty. Hope this helps and good luck.

set screws for most faucets (including price pfister) are hex key driven. If you have corrosion use a product like WD40 or Liquid Wrench penetrating oil to dissolve the corrosion and loosen the set screw normally. Sometimes there is a decorative plug disguising the access to the screw.

Either you didn't seat the o rings properly or they are the wrong size or the cartridge needs replacing

These have a lifetime warranty. Call Price Pfister for free parts. Use your hand or a strap wrench to unscrew the handle assembly. The tower under the handle just screws to the stem down at the counter level. Here is a link to the parts list. http://pfisterparts.faucetdirect.com/mediaBase/specifications/pfister_gt49_yp1_part.pdf#page=1

You are probably looking at the stem. Go to a hardware store and ask to look at an older stem. You will see what it looks like. You will get better service from Ace, Sentry, etc. The easiest way to repair it is to get the kit with new stems and handles. It come with a wrench to fit the stems. You will need a seat wrench to remove the seats. Put pipe dope on the seat threads and get grease to grease up the stems. If you can't get the wrench to fit into the hole in the tub wall, yoiu will have to make it bigger some how. Just don't go bigger than the size of the trim. MAKE SURE THE FAUCET IS IN THE OPEN POSITION BEFORE REMOVING THE STEM. If you don't, you will destroy your valve in the wall and be in for a $400 to 800 repair bill and a hole in the wall.

LOOSE PIPES ARE WATER HAMMER.

YOUR WATER PIPES ARE NOT FIRMLY MOUNTED,IF A PIPE MOVES IT WILL MAKE NOISE,NO MATTER WHAT FAUCET YOU HAVE.

Switch them under the sink by shutting off supply lines, remove with a crescent wrench and trade the hot for cold and vice-Vera for the cold to hot. For most newer models, you tighten the fittings 1/4 or (quarter) turn past "hand tight", with your wrench. Good luck!

Could be a sediment clog in the sprayer head. Remove sprayer head from flex line and clean out the end that attaches to the water flex line.

I'd look at the water shut off valve that the faucet is connected to coming out of the wall. In time the rubber washer that shuts off the water flow will deteriorate enough to cause part of it to travel up line and partially block the faucet.

Your problem is a simple one.

1. Turn off water to faucet.
2. Place a towel(s) in the base of the sink(s) to prevent any parts from going down drain.
   
3. Remove the handle to the faucet. (single handle only)
   
4. If not a single handle then remove spout from faucet.
5. If a single handle remove cap carefully and any loose parts.
6. Gently turn spout side to side while lifting to remove.
7. You will see a hole with a very small valve where the water comes out to the spout on the base of the faucet.

1. Remove this valve (which is a backflow preventer) and replace.
2. Reassemble and test.
   

Problem solved.

Usually, there is a filter-like mesh at the mouth of the faucet for producing the air bubbles. You may try to turn the mouth part using a suitable plier to see if it can be taken out and you may do something about the mesh.

Two things spell trouble for these poorly engineered units:water and thick soap...

Inside these pumps is a metal ball for
the check valve. any water in your soap
will corrode this ball, causing the pump
to lose it's prime...

Using soap thats too thick (like Dawn)
will cause the soap to harden around the moving parts and impede the pumping
action. Try a thinner soap, such as inexpensive pink hand soap.DO NOT
ADD WATER! (See above)

Hope this helps.

Shut off the water under the sink, loosen the nut for the faucet careful not to strip it. Try to move the faucet into the desired position, if it works clean the areas of the connections that you can get to and tighten back down carefully so that the connections are not stripped and its not too tight. Make sure it moves as desired, turn the water back on. If it doesn\'t move after the main nut is loosed, then I suggest dismantling the faucet, clean it all with alcohol and try again. If not a new faucet may be in order, it is hard to properly replace the inside portions of a faucet without proper training, a handy type person could though. I suggest if internal faucet repair is attempted that you take the parts with you to the store and compare carefully. Good luck!

I will need a few more details. Can you post a pic of what you are looking at?

What is a pressure fitting? Is this a single handle or dual handle faucet, kitchen or bathroom? which model? Did you remove the aerator and make sure it is clean (standard plumbing procedure after playing with the pipes) If the supplies connected to 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch lines did you use two wrenches to prevent twisting the tubing?

pry plastic cap, under cap remove Phillips screw,pull handle and replace

How did you resolve the problem of removing the spout assembly? We also have a Price Pfister 34 series kitchen faucet and are trying to replace the diverter. Like you, we have removed everything down to the spout assembly, which will not simply lift off. We have tried letting it sit overnight with WD40, thinking it would loosen it up. No such luck. Then tried using white vinegar, thinking maybe there were calcium deposits holding it on. No luck. Please tell us that you were successful and how you got the victory over this stubborn thing!