Pegasus Technologies Plumbing - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

First shut off water to faucet and second unless you installed it which sounds as if you did not under the sink and behind you'll see the faucet attached with a single nut that unscrews. Typically when you get a new single hole they come with their own wrench to install and remove it. You need to first see if you can get a pair of channel locks on the nut and just slightly loosen the nut. From there disconnect the supply lines loose from the copper lines coming off of the faucet. Careful; copper is soft.. Once you unscrew the supply lines, have a bowl handy to put the water into. Reach under again and hold the large nut and unscrew the entire assy from the top. I found this the easiest. gently bend the copper supply lines inward so that they will exit. To install, clean sink surface and be certain to check the washers inside the supply lines. If they are old, you should install new ones to prevent future leaks. Tighten the new faucet with the new wrench and keep it under the sink for future and be careful tightening the new supplu lines because you van actually twist the copper from the new faucet. Snug is good. You've done it!

simplytighten packing nut located at base of valve handle

sounds like you answered your own problem good job

There is typically a cover plate that needs to be pried off. Under it you will find a screw that needs to be removed. Other types use a set-screw that would be visible at the base of the handle.

FOIL. First, outer, inner, last.

I started this when the faucet began leaking around the body when the handle was lifted to use water. I thought this was a regular faucet, but Home Depot was no help in supplying a repair kit. Fortunately I had the original manual and called Pegasus. When I described my model number and symptoms, the lady said the problem was the cartridge, covered under warranty and she would send me one. The cartridge and a new bonnet arrived a couple of days later. That was the end of easy.

Changing the cartridge was right at the limit of my patience and skill, but I won't bore you with all the rabbit trails I explored before final success. First, it's not obvious how the faucet comes apart; the top button is threaded rather than clipped as in most faucets and pliers may mar the finish when you unscrew it. With the button gone, removing the screw holding the handle was no problem, but I had to resort to a small gear puller ($5 at auto parts store) to remove the handle. I used a longer screw (1") as a center point but it was not just a matter of popping it loose; I had to draw the handle the full length before it came off. The cap under the handle is threaded to the brass bonnet and is unscrewed counter-clockwise. I had to apply heat and WD-40 alternately to finally get this to loosen and had actually given up and decided to call the plumber before going back for one more try after it sat for an hour. The finish on the cap was marred during removal, but it is not normally visible. With the cap removed the outside sleeve can be removed by pulling up and rotating; it is not threaded, but is an O-ring fit to the outside of the control body. Now the bonnet can be unscrewed from the inside of the control body. There are two flat spots on the upper threads on the bonnet that allow a crescent wrench to unscrew the bonnet from the body. Again heat and WD-40 alternating was necessary before it finally came out.

There is no need to loosen the faucet from the counter or remove any hoses, although I did. It should remain solidly mounted to provide resistance when unscrewing the cap from the bonnet and the bonnet from the body and prevent the hoses below from twisting.

Putting it back together was easy; I used Teflon tape on the bonnet threads. I decided to test the faucet after I tightened the bonnet on top of the cartridge, before the cap and sleeve were installed. When I opened the faucet, water sprayed out the back of the body, where the diagram shows the spring and diverter. I did not have any parts for this, but the sleeve has O-rings at top and bottom so I decided to install it and the cap (hand tight). After I did, the spray was stopped (by the sleeve), but it still leaked like it had done at the beginning. I assumed the sleeve was working as well as possible and maybe its O-rings were leaking. But I tightened the cap with pliers which pushes down on the sleeve, and the leak stopped. I don't feel fully comfortable because I don't have an understanding of how everything works, but it's operating normally and not leaking.

Pegasus tub and shower thermostatic faucet handle stripped

Do you get water when you disconnect hose from the faucet? If so, perhaps plastic backflow preventor in the faucet is stuck?

Push in on the connector and hold tension on it while pushing back on the ring closest to the pipe and hold that back while pulling back on the coupling.

Replace or at the very lest take apart and clean the cartage's.

You need to take it off copletly and clean it then take 100% clear silicon put it down on the sink base and on th e bottem lipe of the basket strainer tighten down till silicon sqeezes out top of sink wipe with paper towel and wate 24 hours befor use.

1-888-328-2383
This is the Pegasus warranty number from another help site.
Gary

Turn off water supply to sink. Wrap top of goose neck with rag and use a pipe wrench to remove ( lefty loosey, righty tighty). Inspect interior of faucet for worn o - ring or gasket and take damaged part to local hardware store for replacement parts. The gasket or o - ring may be on the gooseneck ( the part the water comes out of between the handles or below a single handle faucet).
Good luck!!

The protective finish has worn off of the brass drain assembly and there is alot of chemicals in your water. Only thing to suggest is a water softner for your home.

Pegasis is a cheap brand of strainer.

I would get a better quality strainer...
ProFlo, moen, franke, Blanco, and even kohler

you might pay a few dollars more, but they will last much longer

I know what you mean I had similar problems with my sink strainers, unfortunately is you want to get a good working basket you have to buy the whole drain assembly. You can get some cheap ones at a home store but they will only break again and probably won't match up. What I recommend is swapping out your drains with a drain brand that won't break again like Kohler, Moen, or Elkay. All you need to install a new drain is the new drains, a drain nut removal tool and some plumbers putty. Take the old drain out clean around the whole and install the new one with a ring of plumbers putty around the hole.

You should be able to, take your other one with you to lowes or home depot or plumbing supply to get one.

Sure, have you gone to there webb site? And even if not the sink basket assm. are not to bad to replace. You can find them at Home Depot etc. Look in your local area phone book for a plumbing supply store. These stores have it all and may be able to help you with name brand ?'s.

You may have etched the surface with the cleaner, but let's hope not.

Go to your local auto parts store and get a can of Polishing Compound - NOT rubbing compound...this product is used to remove surface blemishes from paint and other smooth surfaces. Try it on a small area only. If it works, you can use it remove the other spots. You can then use an automotive car wax to protect the vanity top....I like Nu-Finish...great product.

shower heads are fitted with a 'flow limiter' which is no more than a washer under the sealing gasket where the 'head' fits to the supply pipe.un-screw shower head from pipe,remove 'limiter' reinstall & enjoy.