Pass & Seymour Electrical Supplies - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

This site will have a video on installation. https://www.legrand.us/passandseymour/light-switches/decorator/tm8111cc.aspx

No it will not.

Sounds like you have your wires crossed and are turning the power off.

The tab will snap off by grabbing it with needle node pliers. the tab is for a common feed to both the 3way and single pole switches.

Wiring diagram located at https://www.legrand.us/passandseymour/light-switches/combination/led-lights/692ig.aspx

Go to the website below for diagram. Under specifications. https://www.legrand.us/passandseymour/fan-controls/de-hummer/ls-series/lsdc163pwv.aspx

Install one dimmer at the load end feeding the light. Install a standard 3way switch at the other end. Make sure the dimmer switch is rated for the type of bulbs in the fixture. ie Led, halogen etc.

You should have three screws. The two screws the same color are for the switch legs going out. The odd colored screw should be for power in.

The very small tab between the screws.

Standard 3way switch. There are two crews the same color, those are for the travelers. The odd colored screw is for the power in or switch leg out depending on which end of the line it is located.

I f you intend to run one light with two switches you should opt for 3 way switches. the wiring diagram is usually inside the box if you by them boxed.

Standard 3way switch. You have two matching colored screws. they are the travelers. The odd colored screw is either power in or switch leg out depending on which end of the line you are on.

Would suggest you contact the Pass and Seymour Div. of Legrand (France) and ask for the pdf file with the instructions. Your unit has a wireless function and must be work properly.

file:///C:/Users/Glen/AppData/Local/Temp/PS-Multilocation-Dimmers-Install-Sheet.pdf Pass&Seymour website

Verify that there is not a piece of tape or protective layer across the light screen.

Hello anonymous, I am concerned in so many ways... (USA NEC assumed): FIRST concern: (after the obvious BATHROOM/GFCI issue) is the NATIONAL ELECTRIC CODE for wire/device capacity INSIDE your existing ELECTRIC box... The CODE requires wires to have space ... aside from the fact that it is just plain dangerous to pack wires densely and pack them together tightly... Then... of course... You have said nothing about the wire gauge/ampacity... (again assuming 14 Gauge/15 Amp)... you will have to calculate the fill for each wire and check the Cubic Inches Plus your device against the ELECTRICAL BOX rated capacity... That is just the BASICs of SAFETY. Looking for a diagram of your "1595" Legrand Pass & Seymour I have failed miserably. I have found what YOUR switch looks like... From an old electrician's standpoint... If you have EACH device wire separately thru their respective switches... There should be NO POWER to operate the FAN. The FACT that there is ... Is highly PROBLEMATICE. It would seem that a PREVIOUS ELECTRICIAN has switched the NEUTRAL side of your old light circuit... Easy to prove with a VOLT TESTER. I Recommend KLIEN NCVT (non-contact volt tester) Klein Tools NCVT 1 Non Contact Voltage Tester Electrical Tools Amazon com A SWITCHED NEUTRAL poses an EXTREME hazard in a bathroom (any water) location but is EASY to fix... Rip it ALL apart and properly configure all the EXISTING WIRES... Do it right... Be safe. WHAT ARE TWO BLACK WIRES FOR COMING OUT OF PASS sEYMOUR 1595 SWT SWITCH FOR Carnac the Magnificent

The wire to the ceiling fan are meant to send voltage to the fixture only and are not usually wired to control both the light and the fan independently. In order to do that, you may have to pull another set of wires to the switch box and then connect them to the light circuit in the box where the fan is. In regards to the other wiring that you mentioned, it makes no sense that the wires go to the stove fan and the bathroom fan unless those wires are source wires that carry the incoming voltage.

The common wire is usually the white wire. Some switchs are only wired with a hot (black) wire. So not all switchs need a common wire (leg).

What device are you replacing... a switch or a outlet? 1) If you are replacing a switch with 3 or 4 wires? That is either a 3-way switch, 4-way switch, or a DPDT switch and cannot be replaced with GFCI 2) If you are replacing outlet with 4 wires, then it can be replaced with GFCI combo. http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#8 3) If you are replacing ordinary single-pole switch, then you can replace with GFCI combo IF the box has a neutral wire http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#6 4) You can install GFCI protection on any circuit by installing GFCI earlier in the circuit. http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hot wire to brass-colored screw Neutral to silver colored screw http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html#test Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7