Mastercool Heating & Cooling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

pump not working, no water, pads covered in minerals.

the cooler should cycle several times daily. as set point is reached unit turns offuntil inside temp rises to set point an it comes on again instruction manual covers that https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1306105/Mastercool-Mcp44-C.html?page=5#manual

The cellulose pads in a mastercool are glued together and usually the adhesive is what you smell. It may take a while for it to go away. Strange as it may seem, as the pads get more mineralization and you use it more the smell will go away. Do not use a cooler for your whole house without plenty of exhaust through a window or an updux. Coolers work best when there is plenty of freely moving air.

the bearings

what is error 97

Hi there,
Try some Downy fabric softener. Or replace them with Aspen pads.Thank you for choosing FixYa.com

Possible source - call them to request assistance. https://indoorcomfortsupply.com/mastercool-pad-28x40x12-6500-for-adobeair-symphony-coolers-dpm220b-gpad220/ Possible similar model part diagram: https://indoorcomfortsupply.com/adobeair-mastercool-hc64-a-h-parts-breakdown-list/

If you are planning to replace the shaft; if your able to loosen the 2 square headed bolts( which must be done to allow for shaft movement) do so, then after bearings and pulley are off emerycloth (smooth no burrs or rust) the shafts 2 ends and get grinder and cut thru the shaft on the inside of squirrel cage area as close to the edge of cage as possible drive the shortened pieces of the shaft inward( oil this pieces to help ease movement thru blower wheel) until they are removed replace shaft with new shaft and re-install parts and or replace as needed bearings and blower wheel. I am getting ready to do this very job myself ( take measurements of shaft on each side to ensure your back where you started when done)

The solution is to install "up ducts" These devices are easy to install and are fairly cheap. With a swamp cooler the best way to use them is to allow them to draft outside with the "up duct" you get the drafting to the outside but also get to remove attic heat too.

The 3 Main issues.

Check that water is able to come in.

Check that you have Elec. Power

Check that the Float Switch works.

belt or adjust blower wheel

It really should not matter, but there is more room on the oppisite side. https://www.srpnet.com/energy/advice/evapCooler.aspx

What do you mean by "engage"?

Mine did that too. Either the motor needs to be cleaned out or the motor is shot. You can try to have the motor repaired. If that fails a replacement motor is about $120 if you can find one.

I posted this to another solution for someone looking for the motor:

Unless you can find an HVAC shop with a NOS motor for this unit you will not find a drop in replacement. Even if you do get lucky and find a NOS motor be prepared to pay nearly as much for it as you would a whole new evap cooler.

That said, there are motors out there that will work, but you're going to have to make them fit with custom mounts.

It's still a little spendy, especially if you want two speeds like the original motor had, but you can get out for $80 or less if you're willing to settle for one speed (on/off).

boatandrvaccessories.com has a "Packard 40066" compressor motor for $69 plus $13 shipping. It may work but has only one speed.

Basically what you're looking for is a "48 frame", 1/8 hp, direct drive, 110-120v, 1075rpm, 1/2" shaft diameter and around 3" in length (to give you flexability when mounting), "totally enclosed" or "open drip-proof" housing (NOT "open"). Rotation can be either CW or CCW as you can mount the motor on either side of the housing and some motors are reversable. If you've got the skill to custom make some mounts then you can probably fudge some of these specs. The ones you can't change are the 1/2" shaft and the RPM. Do not exceed 1075rpm. The blower assembly simply can't be made to go much faster in that housing and if you try you will overheat the motor and burn it out very quickly (trust me on this one!). Most of the cheap motors I've found are 208-230v and I just don't see the point in having a small 220v PORTABLE evap cooler, that's just dumb.

After a LOT of online research I've found the following motors that would be a suitable replacement, with all the above mentioned specifications. I'm sure there are more, but cross referencing this information for someone not in the business is tricky and time consuming.

AdobeAir 1/8 HP 115V Motor for Adobe MMB10A RF031095 $116.66
http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_142/products_id/7451

Emerson 4856 (k055srj4796722b) (www.emersonmotors.com)
A.O. Smith 136A (UH1036NB) (www.aosmithmotors.com)
Magnetek 136 (now owned by A.O. Smith - www.aosmithmotors.com)
Fasco D733 or D261 (fasco.com)
Marathon X924 (www.marathonelectric.com)
AdobeAir RK232A check acehardwaresuperstore.com
Emerson K55HXKZT-9867

Grainger.com is a good resource but they are expensive.


The motors listed are suitable replacements, but have only one speed, "ON" or "High".

Packard 40066 - 115v 1075rpm $69 - SINGLE SPEED

A.O. Smith 321P177
A.O. Smith 323P077
A.O. Smith 323P487
A.O. Smith 323P490
A.O. Smith 323P677
A.O. Smith U6521
A.O. Smith UH1016
A.O. Smith UH1026NB
A.O. Smith UH9034
A.O. Smith US1016
A.O. Smith US1016NB
A.O. Smith ORZ1026
Brownell MTG3206
Century C045A
Carrier HC37DX120
Emerson 9034
Fasco D834
Franklin 8736010170
Franklin 8715810230
Franklin 8735810180
GE 3081
GE 3206
GE 3950
Grainger 3M658
Grainger 3M800
Grainger 3M828
Grainger 3M829
Marathon X302
Mars 03950
Packard 70066
Packard 40066
R.E. Michael 1E521
Reznor 55682
Reznor 64678
Rotom R12177
Rotom R12834
Rotom UH9034
Trane MOT6195
Universal U136
Universal U177
Universal U380
Universal U566
Universal U730


Good reading for selecting a replacement motor:
http://www.aosmithmotors.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=13100

I suppose that if you found a smoking deal on eBay for an "Open" type motor you could try it, but I doubt it would last long and make damn sure that ****** is grounded well.

Could be a dirty coil. Water needs to run down the whole coil, top to bottom, in order to reach the pan. With anything, including oil from the factory, on the coil, water will fall off the coil rather than run down to the pan. Try cleaning the coil with mild detergent and lots of water. Pros use a pump sprayer.

check wiring from switch to plug in unit from plug to motor

The only parts that could squeal are the fan and the pump. It may be a bearing on the fan or the motor.