I have had the same problem to remove the motor you need to remove the two screws at the back of the motor next the two screws holding on the circuit board (so you can get at the screws around the gearbox ) next remove the cover on the gearbox by removing the four screws and lift off after you have done this you can lift the motor out but remember you still have the wires connected but you can get at the screws to tighten the head down try using lock-tight on the screws
When your stand mixer does not turn on the problem might be a lack of electrical power, broken wires or a failed motor or control problems. First, check the outlet's GCFI breaker and reset it if it's tripped. If the mixer still won't work when plugged into a working electrical outlet then unplug the mixer and check the power cord.
When your mixer is not starting , you could have a motor that has overheated as the mixer motor is thermally protected. An electrical problems such as a reset GFCI outlet or electrical breaker may also be causing the problem.
The manual recommends turning off the mixer and also waiting for about 10 or 15 seconds, and turning it back on. If the mixer still will not run, wait for 30 minutes before trying again. The unit does not have a reset button, so if it still doesn't operate after a 30-minute wait, you'll have to look elsewhere for the problem.
1 (800) 541-6390 for customer service for counter top appliances and kitchen tools and kitchenware.
Hi there,
I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your appliance.
It may mean your worm gear has broken and this is why it will not turn.
I have added a link below for a new worm gear and a video on how to replace it.
W10112253 KitchenAid Worm Gear (was 4162897) (sometimes marked 241803L) https://secure.kaparts.co.uk/sku/W10112253
I hope this helps!!
I am unfamiliar with the types of plug and socket you refer to - we use a different standard in the UK though the principle is identical.
An appliance with a metal body would usually require a ground connection though if the electrical parts are double insulated a ground connection could be deemed an unnecessary safety precaution.
Firstly is the rated voltage of the mixer the same as your supply? Assuming it is correct, is the power cord 2 core cable or 3 core?
If it is 2 core the mixer has a fault as the metal body should not be live (or hot).
If it is 3 core is is possible either the plug is internally connected wrongly, the power cord is connected wrongly inside the mixer or the mixer electrical system is faulty and your power outlet doesn't have an effective ground connection.
If your consumer unit (main fuse and breaker box) complies with modern standards, the ELCB or RCD should have tripped as soon as you plugged in your mixer.
My wife has the same model and the planetary unit fell off shortly after we bought it. Since we had moved overseas to a remote pacific island, getting it fixed under warranty was out of the question.
Since the rotary unit is a pressue fit, I pressed it back into place and it worked fine for about 3 months before I had to repeat the process. After that it became a monthly ritual.
I finally decided to fix it for good. What I did was drill a 3/8" hole in the center of the nub in the middle of the inverted rotary cover plate. I then drilled a 5/16" pilot hole in the center of the grooved shaft that the rotary cover plate presses onto. I then tapped that hole with a 18 NC tap. I was careful to tap it just a little shy of the depth of the cap screw that I was going to insert into the threaded hole so that it would jam as I tightened it. I then greased all the gears with a white machine grease and pressed the roary cover plate back onto the shaft. I then put a washer on a 5/16"-18 x 1" socekt head cap screw and clamped the thing together. It hasn't come off in the last 2 years.
While I am moderately skilled in this sort of thing it wasn't a precision operation. Since I was living in a fairly remote location with no shop, I did the entire operation on the kitchen counter using a handheld electric drill. Probably the hardest part was determining how deep to tap the shaft. I did it by trial and error. You can adjust the depth by using a washer or two of varying thicknesses.
I'm really surprised how lame a design using a press fit for this assembly is. They could easily prevent the problem by using my approach or even putting a cotter pin through the shaft and reciever tube in the rotary cover plate (a small hole would be needed in the side of the tube to set the cotter pin).
From what I've seen on the internet while looking for a solution, this is a fairly pervasive problem.
We thought we were buying a high quality machine that we thought would be reliable in our remote situation. Fortuantely, other than the falling rotary cover issue, the machine has worked great.
what do you mean by "slip"
the blades quit turning?
or slow down?
or lose power?
or out of alignment?
in other words how do you know they are "slipping"?
First I would find a repair depot for kitchen Aid and see if parts are still available for your model and if they will sell them to end users. They may also be able to help with a parts blowup diagram.
Hi. Your mixer should still be under warranty. Call Kitchenaid Customer Service and tell them your story. If you tell them that you tried to fix it by spreading the arms, your warranty will be deemed void. Kitchenaid is usually very good at replacing under warranty. If you found this solution helpfull, pleas rate it Good luck! ricardok45
Worn carbon motor brushes typically cause motor sparking when you're running the mixer. Unplug the stand mixer and examine the motor brushes for wear. To remove a motor brush, use a screwdriver to unscrew the motor brush cap. Pull the cap and the carbon brush out.
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