Kenmore Microwave Ovens - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Sorry but no.

It may be just a stuck relay on the control board, which I can repair for you.

feel free to contact me directly, and be sure to remind me of the full model number from the tag on your unit and your symptoms.


Ed Miller
[email protected]
MicrowaveControl.com

The cause of the TE error for us was grease/gunk on some exposed pins and flex connectors (communication bus between controller and keypad) that was interfering with communication with the keypad. Resolution to TE error: Remove the keypad / control board from the microwave. There are three screws on the bottom at the front to remove. Once those are removed, the keypad is held on by clips. Slide the entire keypad to the left and it will come loose. After it is loose, carefully remove all the wired connectors to the microwave. Lay the keypad face down on the counter and look at the control board. The control board is actually seperate from the keypad and connected via two thin flex strips with many small contacts (like a nintendo game connector) . Our flex strips were covered in grease from the hood fan operation. Carefully clean the strip and the connector (with a felt pen if you have one) and resassemble. This resolved the issue for us.

Unless there is grease or moisture on the control board, especially in the area where the keypad plugs in, then you would have a failing membrane keypad.

But neither part you would need to repair this is available any longer.

Please feel free to follow up if you have more questions.

Ed Miller
[email protected]
MicrowaveControl.com

go to sears .com

they use a lot of power and should have it's own outlet, try plugging it in to the same plug as refrigerator, it's a double circuit and will have the power to supply both units, there should also be another plug in kitchen that is double circuit, keep trying different plug to you find it.. double circuit means top has 1 breaker and bottom is on another breaker

From the research I did the parts needed are no longer available, but you may be able to pull the main board and send it for repair.

I'm sorry to point this out and if you need to ask that much, you should call a qualified service agent instead. Please remember that an electric range is almost certainly the highest-powered device in your house - ie, the one that could most easily kill you dead. All half-way qualified service agents should know how to fix the problem you describe - and to talk you through what they'll do in a way which suits you. Again sorry, and I seriously suggest you consider which is more important: your life or limb, or the cost of an expert call-out?

Sounds like door switch problems, you say you replaced the door latch but did you replace the door switches too. most newer units have door switches with small 3/16 terminals and small undersized wires going to them so they get how and melt the plastic body of the switch and it causes a back feed of voltage when it is not supposed to be there. Check under the blades of the switch and see if you have any melted plastic of the switch body there, that will be your bad switch I recommend replacing with a switch with 1/4 terminal, they hold up to the current much better. Change the wires to the switch with larger ones that can handle the current better without getting hot

What is the model number?

MICA COVERS ARE EASY TO REPLACE, GLOBAL MICRO PARTS IN TEXAS SHOULD BE ABLE TO SUPPLY THAT FOR YOU