Husqvarna Garden - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

how do you fix this

Check transmission drive belt and linkage from right foot pedal to transmission.

take it to your local dealer for their help many thinks have to be seen by the fixer which we can not do

for you own safety fix it right.

White smoke is water vapor (steam) Blue smoke is oil Black smoke is rich mixture Best guess is that you have a blown head gasket.

Did you be chance check and see if there is fluid in the transmission?

No, check that the two fuel lines are not switched and fuel purge is working.

Easy way to test; Identify which line has the filter and disconnect the other (fuel return) at the carburetor. Then press purge bulb several times. Fuel should spurt out the fuel return port at the carb.

If no fuel spurt, move fuel line (with filter) to the other carb fuel port and repeat test. If still no fuel then purge is not working... either fuel not delivered from tank or carburetor is blocked or bad diaphragm or other.

Check on you tube there are a lot of vids.

If it sat out in the weather all winter it may have rusted the actuator shafts.

If it happened suddenly, then more likely a stick has lodged underneath or something has come apart and jammed both the clutch and the forward reverse actuators.

it must have a loose bolt under it

Make sure the belt keepers are as close to the pulleys as possible. Make sure you are using the correct belt, too long can allow the belt to jump off.

My thought would be immediately sheared flywheel key, it is easily done to not enter the key in the flywheel to the recess in the crank, the key is alloy and part of the flywheel itself.

drive shaft possibly broke the end off or the gear box at end has failed

Would like clarification. Is the engine turning over at all? Is the starter pinion engaging? The electric start circuit is totally separate from the ignition circuit and will not affect the running of the engine at all.

Fundamentals

1. FUEL
2. COMPRESSION
3. SPARK

A simple diagnostic shortcut is starter fluid. Remove air filter and spray a short burst (1 second) of starter fluid directly into throat of carburetor. Promptly attempt to start.

If it runs for a couple seconds and dies, then compression and spark ok but fuel delivery is not. Check fuel lines and filter inside tank.

If no run, then conirfm spark and compression.
Remove spark plug and hold electrode end against the cylinder and pull starter cord. You should see a spark.

To test compression, spark plug removed, place thumb over spark plug hole and give starter a pull. The compression should push your thumb and make a PFffft sound.

I am unfamiliar with the model but taking a guess; the drive belt could be slipping when it picks up something. It would be a good idea to look underneath to see what those sticks and stones might be getting stuck on instead of being thrown clear and check the drive belt for condition and tension.

check for spark and fuel flow.

I have a very low time Rancher 55. It is hard to start when it sits for over two months. It is easy to pull with the spark plug out. The solution for me was to dribble 2-cycle oil into the cylinder and pull it about 7 times with the plug out. When I put the plug back in, it starts easily

The air gap should be as close as possible without touching, bearing in mind the flywheel will grow as it warms. I don't know the recommended gap for that engine but I usually set them to 0.008" and find that works ok.

Carburetor setting should be done by a dealer and by using a tachometer. However, to get a ballpark setting. Turn the screws in until they lightly seat, then turn the "H" and "L" screws out 1 1/2 turn. Then have your local dealer finish setting the carb.