Hobart Welding Tools - Page 7 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

You need to remove the gun's liner and try to pull it out with pliers, if you can't then just replace the liner for a new one.

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Hello, by pulsates, do you mean that the wire feed is what is pulsating while welding? If so, I have had this as well. I found that by turning down my feed rate, the pulsing stopped and the feed was smooth. I hope this helps. If not, contact me again.
joe

Check the output voltage of the welder (the torch and earth clamp). The voltage should be around 30 to 40 volts. If yu see the normal spark from the rod as you strike, but cannot hold an arc, have a look at your rods, they could be old, damp or incorrect for your welder or the type of work you are attempting.

Sounds like the restate that controls the wire speed is gone. Replace it.

If you are using solid wire, you need to use a shielding gas like Carbon Dioxide or Argon. Otherwise you will not get *********** and the wire will leave random blobs.If you are using flux cored wire, you do not need the shield gas as the core is producing the gas shield. This should remedy it.

I know this is an old post, but I just had this same situation. Inherited a unit from my father in law and it had be sitting about a year. I drained the gas tank (disconnect fuel line and pressurize tank inlet with shop vac) and flushed out fuel lines and replace fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter. Cleaned and lubricated all carb and choke mechanisms. Sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner and let it soak. Put in fresh gas. Cranked and cranked and cranked. Did not start right away, but stuck with it. I put some gas in a syringe used for injecting meat (just so you know the size) and remove everything above the carb venturi. Put about 1 cc of gas directly in the carb and cranked. it started and ran until that gas burned up (about 2 seconds). It ran ok but wasn't getting fuel so I suspected the fuel pump. Kept at it and repeated this about 15 to 20 times and noticed that it would run just a wee but longer each time. Until finally it caught and ran strong. Put everything back and it is in great shape. Hope that helps. Also, I noticed there was quite a bit of moisture in the muffler. This sputtered out until it got out enough to evaporate it all out. I now keep it covered when not in use - something I am not sure my father in law did.

ensure the welding temperature switch is fully seated in its detents and not in between numbers or heat settings it will not run if inbetween.......

Welding Supply, where they sell welders
gases etc

I have a suspicion. Remove the sheet metal housing (unplugged of course) and look for a large cylindrical object, probably in a clamp on the floor of the unit and it will have two large terminals with fairly heavy wires attached. It could be ~ 6-7 inches high and 3-4" diameter. It will have markings on it indicating capacitance and voltage and could be around 20-30,000 uFd and 60-70 volts. This is a filter capacitor and I have replaced several of the (naturally) Chinese units in other welder brands. Figure on $40-60 for a new one of these pieces of ****. They often do not even meet the given values by a large percentage but unfortunately, no American mfrs. have survived to compete with them. I have several large US made capacitors that are 30-40 years old that measure nearly like new.

no unless its designed for gas

If your Hobart Mig is less than 250 amps then yes you can, bobcat 225 will give you10000 watts and you require at least 8000 watts for the hobart.

Nothing's wrong with your gun or machine. Your unit has a duty cycle of 20 percent at 90 amps, meaning that it will work (weld) great for 2 straight minutes and then it needs to cool down for 8 minutes. The duty cycle it is measure in 10 minutes lapses.
All you need to do is to let it cool down, and start again. That's all.

The parts you need are #202 726 -spool hub adapter and #211 887 -hub nut.

The gas valve is stuck open.

Rated Output at 20% Duty Cycle 150 A at 16 VAC
150 A at 16 VDC Welding Amperage Ranges AC/DC 10 - 165A Max. Open-Circuit Voltage 80 V Amps Input at Rated Output AC-230V: 21A
DC-230V: 23A You need to configure the machine to specifications of the material you going to weld.That is :
-The material of the job
-And the proper amperage to use for the material.
-For aluminum you will use A/C
-Stainless Steele / Chrome Molly D/C

Aluminum MIG Welding
1. The best feeding of wire for aluminum is done with a spool gun. If you can't use a spool gun, use the shortest gun possible and keep the gun as straight as possible. Use Argon only for shielding gas. Only use a push gun technique when welding aluminum. 2. If you are having feeding problems, one thing you can try is a contact tip that is one size bigger than your wire. 3. The most common wire type is ER4043 for all-purpose work. ER5356 is a stiffer wire (easier to feed), and is used when more rigid, higher-strength weld properties are needed. 4. Clean the aluminum before welding, to remove the oxide layer. Use a stainless steel wire brush used only for cleaning aluminum. 5. Fill the crater at the end of the weld to avoid a crack. One way to do this is to dwell in the weld pool for a second at the end of the weld.

The part number you are looking for are:

203 476 . . . HUB, spool
203 544 . . . NUT, hub spool

Aks the sales rep at your nearest welding supply shop to order them for you. If you have a Praxair store go to them.

Price is around 20-30 bucks for both.

Hobart machines now belong to miller brand, you can use a miller gun M15, no need for adaptors it's a direct plug connection. Praxair stores carry a cheaper gun under prostar label a 150amp gun will cost you around 150 bucks.

I have found that keeping the gun lead as straight as possible fixes this problem. Also it is sometimes recommended to use one tip size bigger when welding with flux core wire. My last spool was radnor flux core wire .030, and a .035 tip keeping the lead as straight as possible and it welded extremely well. If that doesn't solve it you should take everything apart and clean it / blow it out with compressed air.

you need ar/co2 95 5 change contact tip to what ever size wire you r going 2 use .035 .045 whatever

This machine is supposed to be hooked up to a 20 amp breaker all alone, with nothing else running off that 20 amp breaker. Also are you using an extension cord? It is usually not recommended to do so, although I have the same machine and it seems to do just fine. Just make sure you are getting proper power to the machine.