Hobart Welding Tools - Page 6 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Hi there,
Sounds like you liner may be bad.There is a plastic tube that the wire travels through to the gun.The teeth marks from the feed wheel acts like a saw and can cause a short.Then the liner carry's part of the voltage.Look for a blue color on the liner. Here is a video that shows how to change a Hobart liner .You may want to multi test first for contanity with the power off.

Thank You for choosing FixYa.com.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4X-7K6RVGqg&feature=player_detailpage

Hi there,
I found a manual that has a lot of information in it.These welders only have a duty cycle of 30% so that means you can only run them 3 minutes out of 10.They have thermo switches that shut them down before they get to hot.The house breaker needs to be around 50 amps at least I have a 125 buzz box and a wire feed and that's what I use.I would check the circuit breaker in the house to see if its tripped.I turn my mig on the side so that the shavings from the wire pushing wheels don't get pushed into the liner and clog the wire and make it jam.Well hope this helps.Thank You for choosing FixYa.com and good luck!



http://www.hobartwelders.com/service/owners-manuals/

Call Hobart technical support for help.

If you can see the tip of the wire, grab it with a plier, and pull. If it comes out easily, you need to adjust the tension on the feed wheel under the cover a little bit. Do NOT touch that adjustment with power on unless you are wearing good gloves, even then there is still a danger of shock as that is the point the secondary of the transformer ties to. If it does not come out, open the cover,and look at the tension on the feed wheel- if it spins and no feeding, the welding wire may be jammed up or corroded to the liner of the handle. If it is all bunched up and tangled, that in itself may be the problem.

bad ground?

Contact Hobart technical support for manual.

Most welding supply stores have brushes.
But if they are obsolete you can make brushes from brushes that are close in oversize and proper configuration of connection

Could be something as simple as worn brushes, dirty slip rings, or a bad bridge rectifier. If you know how to check them, these are all something you could fix. If it's anything beyond those, you're best bet would be take it to a repair facility. I repaired welders for 18+ years. (just an FYI)

Does the feed wheel move? If so adjust it's tension on the wire. If not, check for voltage at the motor. If there is voltage and no rotation, check for continuity of the winding, there should be less than 5000 ohms. If no continuity replace motor. If continuity- oil the shaft with light motor oil and see if it releases.If no voltage is measured at motor connections, the fault is on the speed control board. check the fuse, and if that is okay, check the SCR(s) and replace if faulty.

Part number you are looking for it is HOB 119264, You can order it thru any welding store near you. Try Praxair.

If this was useful to you please vote. thanks...

the spool gun is a 12volt motor, i usely hook it to the power feed for the feed motor in the welder. it is also 12 volt . i have heard of some welders that have 110 volt feed motors but have not seen one yet but just to be save i would test the power feed to the feed motor before i made the connection.

First thing is to verify that the power source for the 12 volt motor supply is working. I had a case where the small transformer that powers the supply that powers the motor was defective. SO make sure the 12 volt supply is working. Power supplies are so straightforward that you don't need a schematic even... just google words like "rectifier" and "full wave bridge".

Can't help you with the year,but here's the owner's manual. The serial number should be a combination of two letter and six numbers, like: KK123456. The one you are posting it's not a serial number.

http://www.hobartwelders.com/om/0900/o947h_hob.pdf

Hope this help you. ; ).

find the round circular disk with 2 wires and white grease buried in the main transformer. should be on the outside of the coil r&r the thermal cut out switch.
the heat switch could also be the heat selector switch on the front panel remove knob remove wires from selector remove shaft nut reverse actions....

On most welders the spool is set up so the wire is pulled from the bottom, goes into a small hole then through the feed wheels and another small hole. There is a lever that you flip to separate the wheels which allows you to feed the wire and once you get the wire started through both holes lock the feed wheels in place and adjust tension so that the wire will slip if it hits something hard (test on a piece of wood).

This happens to me all the time. Wear and tear has taken its toll and everything has to be maintained for it to work. Most likely the welding tip is worn and should be replaced. Lincoln electric tips work well and I will replace mine several times during the day. Also check your tension and make sure the wire will uncoil freely from the spool. You can remove the tip and make sure the wire will feed without it. If not, your liner may be worn out. Also a welding Jell will help keep the tip from cloging. It will still happen, but hopefully not on your first weld of the day.

Hi, this symptom is indicative of a Power supply problem, and it is trying to start, and shuts down, and then tries to start again, the PSU is either itself faulty, or some "Other" component is faulty, and causing too much current draw, and the PSU, then attempts to shut down. The motor working, isn't that relevant, as the motor drive circuit is separate from the actual welding electronics so to speak. And may or may not work, has no real bearing on the actual welding electronics.
Honestly though, unless you have experience with these or other units, and welding electronics, really the best thing you can do, and it WILL work out less expensive, and less of a hassle, is to contact a Hobart repair center, and have them give you a "Quote" for the repair.
The only "Other" alternative, is to use the "Shotgun" approach to repair and swap boards, with the hope of getting lucky and actually repairing it. Ensure you DO isolate the actual l"Fault" though, otherwise, you may simply "Blow Up" the "Replacement" board(s). Obtaining a service manual, for your exact make and model, would be a great benefit if DIY was the way to go.

Newer welders as hobart and miller are set up from factory to use innershield wire therefore polarity is set up as inverse. Check inside your machine and check that ground cable is on negative side. Your gas must be mix argon/CO2 or pure CO2 (not recommended).
Other potential problem is wire not being a mild steel one. Check you have gas flow out of your nozzle.
That's all I can think of.

wireng diagrama
Champion 10,000 welder. Won't strike

Check the two main diodes. These units have a light duty cycle. About 20% if I remember correctly. I have one that I was welding with for a considerable amount of time, and burned up the diodes. You can test them by disconnecting the wires (with unit disconnected) and use a ohm meter. You should get a reading in one direction, but not the other. If no reading, then the diode is blown. You can order new ones from your local welding shop. Also check all conections on the secondary for any signs of overheating and loose connections.