Goodman Heating & Cooling - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I am not familiar with the appliance but a transformer is likely to fail if it is the wrong rating for the application, if there is a fault in a component or circuitry causing an overload condition, there is insufficient cooling or ventilation or the transformer is of an inferior quality.

Have you checked the codes to see what one blink is, look on the door panel

For anyone who finds this question in the future - It's the condensate drain hose for the heat exchanger.
Get a bucket and some towels handy and unplug the lowermost flexible rubber hose - if you do this right after the furnace has stopped, water will come gushing out. Mine was continually plugging up causing my furnace to stop, like yours - the L shaped plastic tube that dips into the drain trap on the outside of the unit (the thing filled with water) was too close to the bottom of the trap. I took it out, shortened it by 1/2 an inch (keep the same bevel that's on there!) and I haven't had a problem since. Blowing out the line would only hold things off for a few weeks before it started acting up again.
Cost me $90 for a service call the first time since visually it looks fine and I checked the upper hoses that go to the pressure switch :)
Learn from my service call!

With a heat pump the indoor fan coil does not have a yellow wire that is true your yellow wiring comes from the thermostat which is a 6 wire or 8 which is also true coming from the outdoor condenser you must connect the yellow coming from the condenser and the yellow coming from the thermostat inside the fan coil cabinet the purple is for heating

Typically the filter is located externally of the furnace. If not the lower door near the blower housing. Turn off the power to the furnace 1st. and open that door to look for the filter

Look at page 20 on the manual. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/695287/Goodman-Msg-12crn1n.html?page=20#manual

compressors dont go weak either valves are failing -or unit motor failing --and if have leak will need fixing and depending on where and why leaking not cheap --get 2nd opinion

You have to take the side panels off first on some units. Typically there are 5/16" screws along the top of the unit. Make sure you have the power off to the unit before working on it.

You need to locate your unit drain line and clean it out

Start by washing the condensing coil.

repair with a waterproof sealant tape or epoxy until find a replacement

The black and white wires get 220 from the contactor. The brown and brown/white go to the capacitor. I do hope you bought a matching capacitor to go with the new motor. They don't cost much and make the hook-up way easier.

Just buy a term loc kit, you dont necessarily need the O.E.M. plug!

The capacity is not important unless it is empty. If it was empty it wouldn't be freezing. You should be charging with subcooling and superheat.

Not listed on Goodman parts web site. Saw one sold on an auction site, but information deleted after end of auction. You may find another for sale in the future and contact the vendor. Is the only information you need is how old it is?

Check to see if outside unit coil is dirty and clean with water .
Make sure unit is turn off

That unit is a 3 ton and that term ton has been retired. The term used is now called SEER. SEER and ton are not the same.

Open unit, find leads to fan, check for power w/digital multitester. Follow back to source until you find power. Diy, first then call professional. What i would do