These microwave ovens have a series of door switches. One of yours has gone bad or a plastic finger on your door mechanism that pushes the switches is worn or broken off. They are commonly called NC or NO swithes some ovens have up to 6 of these working together.If you have no expertise in this field consult a repair shop. Please rate me
Comment posted on Jan 12, 2009 there are two types ,normally open and normally closed, NO NC . u have to check continuity on each one and each switch will have a diagram on the side showing its in use position. I hope this has been helpful
Sorry, but the subject lines get cut off after so many characters.
Thanks for replying.
Part # DE63-00204A looks like a valid Samsung part number but it doesn't show up anywhere, so it's likely a proprietary part made only for GE and not available separately.
You can see a helpful exploded view of this model here.
Then you can go here and enter your model number and come up with the parts list. This site has much better prices than GE.
Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screws you need to remove.
Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done.
Chances are you will end up having to but more than you want to, but not the whole door.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Since you say it's new, it should be under warranty.
I would call GE (see your owner's manual) to get a local authorized service center.
Then while you're on the phone with the service center, you can start it up and hold the phone close to it to demonstrate to the technician how loud it is.
They should be able to tell you if it will be covered under warranty so you get it fixed free.
Yes, we would want the entire control panel assembly - the plastic frame, keypad and circuit board.
When you send it, please note on the repair form about the broken tabs.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
1. Unplug the microwave. The plug is probably in a receptacle that is in the cabinet above the microwave, or in the wall above the shelf that is above the microwave.
2. Remove the two (or three) screws that go straight down through the bottom of the cabinet, or the shelf, into the top of the microwave. Have help in holding the microwave when you do this, as the front of the microwave will be able to fall down when the screws are removed.
3. Allow the front of the microwave to rotate down a little, then lift the back of the unit up about 1/2" to 1". At this point, the microwave will be disconnected from the mounting plate on the wall, so you can move it forward and carry it away.
Since microwaves act directly on moisture, this should tell you that it isn't causing any leakage from the cavity/cabinet of the unit.
If microwaves were passing through the moisture, it would eventually dry out completely
I don't believe there is any reason for concern.
Even bad gaskets (seals) around the edge of the door do not cause leakage.
Only a mechanically bent door could cause this and it would still be very minor.
The cooking enclosure itself is what is called a 'tuned cavity' and as such, contains the bulk of the energy internally.
I have the same problem. The left one burns out within a couple of hours use, the other one lasts a couple of months and is then gone. This pattern has repeated over 8 years. I replace them every now and then and then just go without until I get the urge again to fix it. Maybe smaller lower wattage lamps are worth trying...
I haven't heard of such a thing. You must have cooked it until there was no moisture left in the potato. That would also account for the failure of the oven. It would be the same as no load in the oven.
A thermal protect part is your current problem.
I had the same problem. All you need to do is put in your cook time first, then adjust the power level. So time cook, whatever # of minutes, power level, then # power level. Hope this helps.
The front control panel should come off after removing a few screws then look for a large capacitor behind it
.DO NOT TOUCH THE TERMINALS! This capacitor is a common cause of the symptoms you describe and costs almost nothing.Changing it may be the fix.
To mrotu47182 and MaryGur - you may very well have different problems!
TO mrotu47182:
Chances are the magnetron overheated, blowing the "magnetron thermal cutout".
If you or someone you know decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * To MaryGur:
Your problem may be a bad keypad, but the first thing to try is a "hard reset". Unplug it from the power line for a few minutes, plug it back in, set the clock, then try again.
If that doesn't fix it, you may have a bad keypad, assuming that your unit's display is on, but it won't respond to any key presses.
Is this your symptom?
If you or someone you know decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.
If you'd rather have us fix it for you, we do that for $39.95 plus parts and you can visit us via our link here on Fixya http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
If it went dead almost
immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted
high-voltage capacitor.If it went dead
several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a
failing
high-voltage transformer.If
it goes dead or blows the house fuse or breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open
or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.If it's intermittent or
random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number from the tag on the oven here.Here's a YouTube video
available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly
in under 5 minutes.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
Might be the power controller but equally might be the eht diode, transformer or capacitor or the magnetron itself. If you have the experience you can test for mains output from the power controller to the transformer but checking the eht circuit is best left to the experts as getting it wrong can be fatal.
You will find plenty of information about this on youtube and other question/answer sites. Try an internet search...
