Frigidaire Refrigerators - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

There is minimal clearance but the drawers can be removed. Some judicious tugging and wiggling may be required.

Check the owners manual, it may only be a high temperature alert that will go away once it cools inside.

https://www.frigidaire.com/Kitchen-Appliances/Freezers/Upright-Freezer/

High Temp Alert If the temperature inside the cabinet exceeds 21°F (-6°C), the LED light at the bottom of the cabinet will flash and the alarm will sound. The alarm can be reset by opening and then closing the door. The LED will continue to flash until the cabinet temperature is below 21°F (-6°C).

You’re damper inside of fridge not opening y need to put in service mode to check errors codes service diagram location front bottom left side almost over dripping pan

Ur compressor or startn switch is wearing out. The motor n labor can b alotta$. The relay n switch..u cud du urself. Take it off w fridge unpluged..utube can guide u. Then bringit to an appliance or supply for testn. In meantime unplug fridge for awhile n see if symptoms clearup-it will only temporary tho. Also make sure the condensor coils are not dusty..vacuum or wipe..there on back or bottom

The control arm is a plastic paddle like piece. The usual point of failure is this: https://www.appliancepartspros.com/frigidaire-module-242270102-ap5788338.html

Good Morning Le Morrer, I see that you are trying to hook up and start the ice maker on your Frigidaire refrigerator, model# FRS3R5EMB. To connect Water supply Line to ice Maker inlet valve: 1 Disconnect your refrigerator from the electric power source. 2 Place the end of water supply line into sink or bucket. Turn ON water supply and flush supply line until water is clear. Turn OFF water supply at shutoff valve. 3 Remove plastic cap from water valve inlet and discard cap. 4 If you use copper tubing - Slide brass compression nut, then ferrule (sleeve) onto water supply line. Push water supply line into water valve inlet as far as it will go (1/4 inch/6.4mm). Slide ferrule (sleeve) into valve inlet and finger tighten compression nut onto valve. Tighten another half turn with a wrench; DO NOT over tighten. If you use stainless steel tubing - The nut and ferrule are already assembled on the tubing. Slide compression nut onto valve inlet and finger tighten compression nut onto valve. Tighten another half turn with a wrench; DO NOT over tighten. 5 With steel clamp and screw, secure water supply line (copper tubing only) to rear panel of refrigerator as shown. 6 Coil excess water supply line (copper tubing only) about 2 and 1/2 turns behind refrigerator and arrange coils so they do not vibrate or wear against any other surface. 7 Turn ON the water supply at shutoff valve and tighten any connections that leak. 8 Reconnect your refrigerator to electrical power source. 9 To turn the ice maker on, lower wire signal arm (side mounted) or set the ice maker's ON/Off power switch to the "I" position (rear mounted). After connecting the water supply, you will need to prime the water supply system. To Prime The Water Supply System: 1 Begin filling the tank by pressing and holding a drinking glass against the water dispenser paddle. 2 Keep the glass in this position until water comes out of the dispenser. There will be noticeable spurts and sputters as the system pushes air out through the system and dispenser nozzle. This is normal. This may take about 1 and 1/2 minutes. 3 Continue dispensing water for about 3 minutes to flush the system of any air and impurities. Empty the glass as needed. The water dispenser has a built-in device that shuts off the water flow after 3 minutes of continuous use. To reset this shutoff device, simply release the dispenser paddle. Hope this is helpful. -Best Regards- WP

The SH (not 5 H) error indicates that the freezer sensor is shorted in the display. The control can't determine what the freezer temperature currently is. You need to check the wiring between the thermistor (temperature sensor/resistor) and the control board. Replace the thermistor if the wiring has no damage. If the wiring is faulty, replace that. If the fault returns, you may have a problem with the control board. Please add a comment with the model number of the side-by-side refrigerator if you need a parts diagram. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

Check the water filter, replace as needed. Remove ice bin, empty it and let it thaw out. Put it back in place and check for ice the next morning.

you would need your fridge defrost sensor replace, check for ice build up within the vents of fridge section,best to a tec to come and replace it for you,you would need the sensor to be reset on your fridge computer boardcheers

https://www.rohrreinigung-24notdienst.de/rohrreinigung-d%c3%bcsseldorf/

When you replaced the thermistor, did you check the resistance of the wiring and temperature sensor back at the control board? If the wires are damaged or the connector at the control board has corrosion, the control board won't get the correct signal information. If those are fine, then the control board is probably faulty. Sears Parts Direct has the control board here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/3jlv6aqwdo-0046-253/id-5304512769 . Other repair shops will have this part as well. I wish that only the refrigerator temperature sensor was faulty. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9k81fgjOk-U

you may need a check Freon level to see if its low , usually if u have low Freon level you can touch the condenser fan rails and they should be cold because when it has Freon and it liquefies into gas it creates heat hence the coils will then get warm and hot, if they are hot or warm it may not be a low Freon level issue? I would also check the freezer thermistors , see pics there may be more than 1 thermistor in freezer section , u can also check the compressor ur self to verify as not all appliance techs are reputable or knowlagable

We had the same issue. My husband unscrewed the filter cover (1 screw on the left side of the filter under the light flap). Then he pushed the old filter in & lifted it up and it came right out.

you would need to get a whole new board to match the output pins.

Possible the drain hole inside (there for when it defrosts, and if there is one), is clogged. My main fridge just had that leaking issue caused by this. I used turkey baster to purge.

Be aware the fridge works with deadly voltages. If you have not enough technical knowledge, please don't do this yourself. With a multi meter you can measure if the voltage you apply is entering the fridge. There is not much in a fridge. You find a on / of switch, a thermostat en mostly an override switch too short a thermostat. So if you measure a voltage coming is, follow the wiring and check what the thermostat does. if it won't switch you have the cause. If it does switch, follow the wiring, and if the aggregate gets a voltage and does not run, you have a defective aggregate. I can't think of more. Good Luck.

Good Afternoon Friend, I understand that your Frigidaire refrigerator, model# FFHS2611LWF, is flashing an "H1" code. This is actually stating "HI", as in either the refrigerator or freezer, temperatures are Hi and not at a safe level. First, press any button to stop the alarm and clear the HI temperature. If you are still receiving the alarm, I suggest checking the freezer, to make sure that everything is still frozen, and nothing is defrosting as, well as checking the refrigerator temperatures. If things are defrosting or the temperature is Hi in your refrigerator, I suggest resetting your appliance, by either unplugging it or shutting the power off at your homes circuit breaker, for 3-5 minutes. When power is restored, Give your freezer 24 hours to stabilize at the default temperatures of 0 degrees for the freezer and 37 degrees for the refrigerator. I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your refrigerator status has changed successfully. -Best Regards- WP

fan being obstructed behind back panel of freezer.fan motor failure or build-up of ice from door not shutting properly