Welding Tools - Page 11 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olxa_LDyi_I

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GR3Lq0bYOu0QE6Ewa4FizGm-Hp-U_uT7oRjPtxjvLLg/edit

See this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahf2oggp8qY

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It has been my experience the best flat welding rod is 7024. It is easy to use and forgiving of contact sticking. It has a heavy coating making it easier to keep a consistant gap between rod and workpiece. I always liked 7018 for vertical welding. I hope this helps you out.

My torch comes on for 2-3 seconds and machine stops! Cup light solid ! Turn off then back on and same thing!

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Hope this helps

could be a problem with the ground connection.

adjust the wire feed

Hi:
Well don't know were to start, basic technique goes according with the type of metal to weld and type of wire to use.
I think if will be better if you read the basics of welding with MIG machines with an owner's manual. Check the link and go to section B-7.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/servicenavigator-public/lincoln3/im564.pdf

Cleanliness is important when it comes to Mig welding. Any rust, dirt, dust, oil is liable to be deposited in the whip liner. If it's just a dirty liner you can try cleaning it with a solvent that doesn't leave an oil deposit (electric motor cleaner, brake cleaner, that sort of thing) compressed air and flexing of the whip.

Make sure your whip hasn't been crimped, if it has then no amount of cleaning will restore it to operation.. a new liner is the only reasonable answer.

It's possible that a bad tip can cause feed issues. Miller type tips are the worst, in my experience, sometimes you just get a tip that will weld to the wire when the current passes between them. I've worked in shops where I might go through three tips in five minutes and then hit one that would last all afternoon. If the wire sticks and you can hold the gun up and rotate your wrist and you feel a 'pop' and the wire jumps out of the tip then just change the tip out. Excessive roller pressure with a tip that's sticking to the wire can really make trouble for you. Nozzle dip is your friend sometimes with tip sticking issues.

Copper clad wire is not particularly friendly to liners, the copper is liable to flake off in the liner. I use bare wire, I bag the wire in a plastic bag on the feeder and I wrap a scratcher pad on the wire just before it goes into the feeder and I find that I have few feed issues. Wire that has even a trace of rust should be discarded as it will both fill your liner with rust and give poor quality welds.

lp

https://www.millerwelds.com/support/contact-us-form

You'll need to re-structure this into question format and try again, otherwise no one understands what exactly you're trying to figure out.

Depending on what type of it is a self feeding there is a door on the side that should open up and a place where you put your spool of wire then you just feed the wire through the allotted spit and slowly squeeze the trigger to have it feed through you lead.

Lots of torches are fairly universal and you are likely to find it cheaper to replace only the parts needed if you can find them - manufacturers tend to prefer to sell the torch (or gun) complete with the hose, cables and sheath and they are expensive though considerable savings can be made dealing with factors or independent supplier/repairers. Most professional mig welders over here use the euro torch and when a welder doesn't have one and the torch is ready for replacing it is a worthwhile modification, especially if the necessary parts can be sourced secondhand or salvaged. The euro torch just plugs into the machine and once the machine has been modified there are plenty of usable secondhand ones about that can be had for a song. If you aren't conversant with the euro torch, try a search...

Yes, newer models have fan on demand.

That depends on whether you're able to make the necessary alterations,and if the machine is large enough to handle stick welding currents.

First you can turn on the acetylene and then turn on the oxygen to obtain a neutral flame

The above reply is very good. If the contactor is buzzing, it will need to be blown out with high pressure air. When I was a welding repair shop manager, we washed every machine out with a pressure washer and then we blew the machine out with high pressure air. When dealing with high electronic machine, you have to avoid getting the electronics wet and high pressure air can damage circuits and wiring. Contractors are easily taken apart and cleaned. WARNING: Any work done on the inside of the machine should only be done with the machine unplugged or locked out. Good luck.

Possible free manual that may assist: https://www.tractorsupply.com/static/sites/TSC/downloads/ProdContentPDFs/3807126_Man1.pdf