Microwave Ovens - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It is a little known make. There is only a Service Manual advertised, but home servicing is not advised due to the extreme dangers inside the case.https://www.google.com/search?q=saisho+mw+2000+manual..

The transformer that supplies the magnatron is fed from the same part of the machine that feeds the turntable motor. The turntable motor is fed through one of the door safety switches. Check the door switches and feed fuse. If a diode pack has failed, that will blow the fuse or even damage the switch as well.

The capacitor is mounted on the back of the display board. If you can get to it without getting inside the unit, just replace like for like. There is only one and you will be able to see that it has failed, it will be bulged. The large step up transformer and capacitor inside the machine case is too dangerous to go near.They are too dangerous to work on. Take it to a professional.https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens..

youll more than likely have to replace door switch see pics Symptoms of a Bad Door Switch If you are experiencing any of the below symptoms, there is a good chance you have a bad microwave door switch:

• Your microwave doesn't start up when you close the door and press the start button
• Your microwave's interior light, turntable, or fan turns on automatically when you open the door without you hitting the start button
• Your microwave pauses randomly in the middle of cooking as if you had opened the door when the door is still tightly shut

I discovered the screws holding on the microwave's cover were Torx security screws. The manufacturer wanted to keep people out because inside the microwave is a high voltage capacitor that could electrocute you even if the microwave is unplugged. Tip: No Torx security bits? Use a small screwdriver inserted between the pin and the inside of the screw. Twist to break the pin and use a regular Torx bit to finish unscrewing. I've also had luck turning the screw using a pair of pliers on the sides. To be completely safe, you should discharge the capacitor before you go poking around inside your microwave. The capacitor is usually located at the bottom right corner of the microwave. . How to Test For a Faulty Microwave Door Switch The first thing you should do to test the micro switches is by opening and closing the door. You will want to first rule out the possibility the latch or hook is broken and not activating the switch. Watch to make sure the latch activates the plunger on the top of each switch as you open and close the door. When the door opens and closes, the plunger should depress and pop back up. For my microwave, I noticed the plunger on one of the switches stayed down when the door was opened and closed. This was the bad switch. If all the door switches and latches appear to be working correctly visually, the next step is to test that they are working correctly internally. You will see two or three terminals on the switch. The terminal on the bottom of the switch will usually be the common (COM) and the ones on the side will be a normally closed (NC) or a normally open (NO) terminal. If you don't know which terminal is which, there will be a diagram on one side of the switch. Look for which marking the terminal is located next to. Remove the wires connected to the terminals. Using a multimeter set for continuity, touch one probe to the COM terminal. Now if you touch the other probe to the NO terminal, it should read no continuity because that circuit is normally open. Now press down on the plunger. You might sometimes hear a 'click' and your multimeter should report there is continuity. Testing the NC terminal is similar to testing the NO terminal. Keep one probe on the COM terminal and touch the other to the NC terminal. You should have continuity when the plunger is up because the circuit is normally closed. When you depress the plunger, the circuit should open and your multimeter will say there is no continuity. Replacing the Faulty Micro Switch Once you have found the bad switch, remove it from the door panel. The switches will usually be mounted on pins through the holes at the corner of the switch with brackets holding it in place. Should you have trouble getting access to or removing the switches, they are usually all mounted on a plastic frame with screws securing it to the microwave. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull out the frame with all the switches at once. Once you get the microwave door switch out, you could open it up and try to fix it if you are super cheap, but it will likely fail again soon after. A better long-term solution is to replace it since they are so inexpensive. These switches are usually rated up to 100,000 operations electrically and 10,000,000 operations mechanically. To find a replacement switch, look on your old switch for the voltage rating and the type of switch you need. It might have one terminal that is normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC). It could also have both NO and NC terminals, known as a Single Pole Double Throw or SPDT switch. My microwave had two NO switches and one NC switch. My switch was rated for 15A - 1/2HP - 125/250 VAC, 0.6A 125 VDC or 0.3A 250 VDC. You can order a normally open micro switch or a normally closed micro switch on Amazon for about $5 with the above rating. You can also order a SPDT micro switch with both the NO and NC terminals and only use one of the two terminals.

here are some items to check for troubled microwave Bad Magnetron Symptoms What are some bad magnetron symptoms to watch out for? The following is a brief list of some of the most common signs that your magnetron is about to give out: Heating: Either the microwave is not heating up at all, or the heating performance has degraded noticeably. Burning Smell: A burning smell (non-food related), may be an indication that elements of your magnetron are overheating. In this case, switch off your microwave immediately, and arrange for a repair or replacement. Unusual Noises: All microwaves make a bit of a hum, but if it's become much louder - or sounds like unusual vibrations - your magnetron may need to be replaced. Watch out for a clicking sound as well - that's a tell-tale sign of a magnetron that's about to fail.

Is It Worth Replacing The Magnetron In A Microwave?

It really depends on the cost and age of your microwave. If it's somewhere between five and seven years old, you're in the right period of time for a replacement anyway. There's little point spending good money on repairing or replacing a magnetron if the rest of the appliance is likely to give up the ghost soon anyway! Symptoms of a Bad Microwave Diode? (Answered!) A microwave diode is one of the most important components in the appliance. Without it, it's impossible to generate the heat required to heat foods and drinks placed in the oven cavity. Unfortunately, the component can go bad, so it's important to understand the symptoms of a bad microwave diode. Generally, the symptoms of a bad microwave diode include sparking, buzzing and humming, and the appliance failing to heat. Running a continuity test helps to determine whether the diode has a problem. Getting a new diode for replacement is the solution if the current one fail the continuity test. 3 Symptoms of a Bad Microwave Diode The following table shows the summary of the symptoms of a bad microwave diode as well as what you can do to fix the problem: Symptoms Solutions 1. Microwave buzzing and humming Inspect the diode, test it for electrical continuity, and replace it if it fails the continuity test. 2. Microwave not heating Start by inspecting the capacitor and magnetron because they may also be responsible for making the microwave fail to heat. 3. Microwave is sparking Locate the diode, inspect it, and test it for continuity. Replace it if there's no continuity. There aren't too many symptoms of a bad microwave diode. The most common ones include sparks & burning smells, the microwave not heating, and the microwave making humming & buzzing.

1. Microwave Starts to Have Heating Failures

Apart from a failed main control board, a faulty fuse cavity, a blown line or thermal fuse, and a faulty door switch, the high-voltage diode could also be the possible reason why the Whirlpool, Kenmore, GE, or KitchenAid microwave is not heating. Your microwave failing to heat is a perfect sign of a faulty diode, which means you should get a new one for replacement.

2. The Microwave Starts to Pop Sparks

Sparks in your Kenmore, LG, Samsung, or Whirlpool microwave could be a sign that the high-voltage diode is defective. Also, a burning smell from your microwave can indicate that the diode is bad. A burned-out diode can break into two, wear out, or short. Immediately locate the diode in the cabinet next to the magnetron and replace it.

3. Microwave Starts to Make Noise

Your microwave could be buzzing and humming because the high-voltage diode is defective. Apart from the diode, other components that can make your microwave make noise are the plate & drive motor, cooling fan, and magnetron. Keep in mind that you can't repair a bad diode. You can only replace it with a new one.

Safety Warning

While repairing a microwave, the chances of falling into electrocution by the high-voltage capacitor even after unplugging the power cord from the socket are very high. So you need to be very careful when doing the diode test. To begin with, the high-voltage diode is located close to the high-voltage capacitor. In fact, one of its ends is attached to the high-voltage capacitor. And as you know, a microwave capacitor carries high power voltages, which can be quite lethal. It is therefore important to start by discharging the capacitor before getting to the high-voltage diode. Although the capacitor can store charge for a long time, touching both its negative and positive terminals with a metal screwdriver blade will drain all the charge in seconds.

Testing the Microwave Diode

Before you even attempt to replace the diode on your GE, Whirlpool, or KitchenAid microwave, do a functionality test to confirm your suspicion. You can visibly confirm the diode is burned-out when you see physical damages. In case there are physical damages, use a multimeter to test if the diode still has a continuous electrical path. To test the diode for continuity: Touch the positive and negative terminals of the high-voltage diode with the multimeter probes. If the diode test negative for continuity on both of its sides, the diode has failed and will need a new one for replacement. Microwave maiking loud noises

Tip #3: Weird Noises

. A high-pitched noise while the microwave is in use means there's a good chance the magnetron tube or diode is failing. If the exhaust fan or magnetron tube are the culprits, you will need to call a local appliance repair service. DIODE HIGH VOLTAGE You might have an issue with the high-voltage diode if your microwave is generating an odd or loud whirring sound. This element, together with the magnetron and the capacitor, is a part of the high-voltage circuit. The cabinet needs to be taken out in order to get to the diode. BUZZING AND HUMMING Most buzzing or humming noises are frequently caused by the fan motor, vent fan, magnetron, or any combination of these. This noise from routine operations gradually gets louder over time. As the microwave oven warms up, the oscillation happens, and the fan helps keep the mechanical parts from overheating. You might need repairs if the volume of your microwave suddenly increases. Try running the magnetron at a lower power setting while putting food inside to see whether the magnetron is the cause of your problem. This will cause the magnetron to switch on and off to maintain the proper temperature. If the magnetron is the issue, there should be less noise. CLICKING NOISES Even though your microwave might not have a revolving plate, some models spin food using a glass turntable or plate. This component aids in ensuring even heating throughout your meal. However, occasionally clicking noises may result from this action. If you constantly hear clicking, see if your glass plate, roller ring, or track needs to be cleaned. These are simple to clean with soap and water, but you might have neglected to do so. The location of the plate is what determines the other option, so be sure it is still on course. POPPING As you prepare food or after spilling food, you might describe the sound of your microwave as popping, crackling, or snapping. However, these tones frequently come from dishes with significant water or fat content, particularly sauces. POWERFUL SOUNDS When it comes to microwaves or other appliances, these noises continue to be the most alarming. You should replace your microwave if the device starts to make an electric-sounding noise called arcing.

If you notice that while using your microwave, the electricity flashes in addition to making a sound.

Stop using your microwave if this occurs and you notice a hole in the back o WHY DOES MY MICROWAVE MAKE A VIBRATING NOISE

There can be various reasons behind a microwave making vibrating noises. Some are given below. POWER MOTOR Your microwave's drive motor may be malfunctioning if the turntable is making an odd noise. The majority of microwaves with glass trays turn the tray with a motor-driven coupler or a roller guide. Access must be made through the bottom of the oven because the motor is normally found below the floor. Normally, a holding screw holds the motor in place, and two wires are connected to it as well. The motor must be replaced if it is creating a grinding sound. its because it is now dangerous. A loud humming or buzzing sound could result from a damaged magnetron PUSH COUPLER If your microwave is making an odd noise, the drive coupler for the turning tray can be the cause. The majority of microwaves with spherical glass trays revolve around the tray on a roller guide using a motor-driven coupler. A drive coupler with an offset center roller is sometimes used in models that employ a rectangular tray to move the tray guide from side to side. Remove the tray and roller guide from the oven for either style and then check the coupler. Before you can pull the coupler off the motor on some models, you might first need to remove the motor from the bottom. ROLLER GUIDE If the turning tray in your microwave makes an odd noise while rotating, there might be an issue with the roller guide underneath the tray. A motor-driven coupler is sometimes used in microwave ovens with spherical glass trays to turn the roller guide.

Symptoms of a Bad Door Switch If you are experiencing any of the below symptoms, there is a good chance you have a bad microwave door switch:

• Your microwave doesn't start up when you close the door and press the start button
• Your microwave's interior light, turntable, or fan turns on automatically when you open the door without you hitting the start button
• Your microwave pauses randomly in the middle of cooking as if you had opened the door when the door is still tightly shut

To be completely safe, you should discharge the capacitor before you go poking around inside your microwave. The capacitor is usually located at the bottom right corner of the microwave. . How to Test For a Faulty Microwave Door Switch The first thing you should do to test the micro switches is by opening and closing the door. You will want to first rule out the possibility the latch or hook is broken and not activating the switch. Watch to make sure the latch activates the plunger on the top of each switch as you open and close the door. When the door opens and closes, the plunger should depress and pop back up. For my microwave, I noticed the plunger on one of the switches stayed down when the door was opened and closed. This was the bad switch. If all the door switches and latches appear to be working correctly visually, the next step is to test that they are working correctly internally. You will see two or three terminals on the switch. The terminal on the bottom of the switch will usually be the common (COM) and the ones on the side will be a normally closed (NC) or a normally open (NO) terminal. If you don't know which terminal is which, there will be a diagram on one side of the switch. Look for which marking the terminal is located next to. Remove the wires connected to the terminals. Using a multimeter set for continuity, touch one probe to the COM terminal. Now if you touch the other probe to the NO terminal, it should read no continuity because that circuit is normally open. Now press down on the plunger. You might sometimes hear a 'click' and your multimeter should report there is continuity. Testing the NC terminal is similar to testing the NO terminal. Keep one probe on the COM terminal and touch the other to the NC terminal. You should have continuity when the plunger is up because the circuit is normally closed. When you depress the plunger, the circuit should open and your multimeter will say there is no continuity. Replacing the Faulty Micro Switch Once you have found the bad switch, remove it from the door panel. The switches will usually be mounted on pins through the holes at the corner of the switch with brackets holding it in place. Should you have trouble getting access to or removing the switches, they are usually all mounted on a plastic frame with screws securing it to the microwave. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull out the frame with all the switches at once. Once you get the microwave door switch out, you could open it up and try to fix it if you are super cheap, but it will likely fail again soon after. A better long-term solution is to replace it since they are so inexpensive. These switches are usually rated up to 100,000 operations electrically and 10,000,000 operations mechanically. To find a replacement switch, look on your old switch for the voltage rating and the type of switch you need. It might have one terminal that is normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC). It could also have both NO and NC terminals, known as a Single Pole Double Throw or SPDT switch. My microwave had two NO switches and one NC switch. My switch was rated for 15A - 1/2HP - 125/250 VAC, 0.6A 125 VDC or 0.3A 250 VDC. You can order a normally open micro switch or a normally closed micro switch on Amazon for about $5 with the above rating. You can also order a SPDT micro switch with both the NO and NC terminals and only use one of the two terminals.lastly check for bad control board

You would have to send it to the manufacturer. I know how but have no schematic to accomplish this. Brightness is controlled by a resistor that limits power to the display. Sometimes it is done digitally and involves reprogramming.

Probably L for Child Lock. Page 9 http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Dometic-Microwave-Owners-Guide-Model-DMW.pdf and also A small "L" may appear in the corner of the display as a reminder that the control panel is locked. If anyone tries to use the microwave, the display will show "LOCK".

Microwave - Explanation of the Child Lock Out Feature

GE Appliances https://products.geappliances.com > appliance > gea-supp... About featured snippets

You don't Monica. It is far too dangerous and a job for the experts. You won't be able to buy parts yourself. https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

If your Bosch dishwasher's soap dispenser is not opening or draining properly, here are a few troubleshooting steps you can take:

1. Clean the Dispenser Area: Start by inspecting the soap dispenser area for any debris, soap residue, or obstructions. Clean the dispenser thoroughly using a damp cloth and remove any buildup that may be preventing it from opening or closing properly.
2. Check for Mechanical Issues: Examine the dispenser latch and mechanism for any signs of damage or wear. Ensure that the latch is engaging properly and that there are no loose or broken parts. If any components are damaged, they may need to be replaced.
3. Test the Dispenser Solenoid: The soap dispenser may be controlled by a solenoid that releases it at the appropriate time during the wash cycle. Check if the solenoid is functioning correctly by performing a continuity test using a multimeter. If the solenoid is defective, it may need to be replaced.
4. Verify Proper Detergent Usage: Ensure that you are using the correct type and amount of dishwasher detergent recommended for your Bosch dishwasher. Using the wrong detergent or excessive amounts can cause issues with dispenser operation. Consult your dishwasher's user manual for specific detergent recommendations.
5. Check the Drainage System: A clogged drainage system can prevent the soap dispenser from draining properly. Inspect the drain hose, drain pump, and any filters for blockages. Clear any debris or obstructions you find, and ensure that the drain hose is not kinked or bent.
6. Reset the Dishwasher: Try resetting your Bosch dishwasher by turning it off at the power source or unplugging it for a few minutes. This can sometimes resolve temporary issues and restore proper operation.

If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it may be necessary to consult the Bosch dishwasher's user manual for model-specific troubleshooting steps or contact Bosch customer support for further assistance. They can provide you with specific guidance tailored to your dishwasher model and help you diagnose and resolve the problem.

Hello, friend! It is noteworthy that if the GE Spacemaker microwave model JVM240BL001 is displaying "Enter NORM SOUND 2" on the digital display, it indicates that the microwave is in the programming mode for adjusting the sound level. To exit this mode and return to normal operation, you can try the following steps:

1. Press the "Clear" or "Cancel" button. This should clear the programming mode and bring the microwave back to its normal state.
2. If pressing the "Clear" or "Cancel" button doesn't work, you can try unplugging the microwave from the power outlet for about a minute. Then plug it back in and see if it resets the display.
3. If the issue persists, consult the user manual for your specific model. The manual may provide additional instructions or troubleshooting steps to resolve the issue.

You need to remove it and take it in. Or If you can get behind the keypad, you can clean it with electrical contact cleaner. Or depending on age, you replace the keypad or buy a new one. They are a good make.

You can't, because they are so dangerous to work on. The makers don't publish them. https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

There are no official wiring diagrams because there is supposed to be no home repair. That capacitor has about 120,00 volts at 10 amps just waiting for you to get within an inch of it. It is heart stopping power. There are some general diagrams here. https://www.google.com/search?q=microwave+wiring+diagram+transformer&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwj2w728ou73AhU5s3IEHVYwBAMQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=microwave+wiring+diagram+transformer&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzIGCAAQHhAIMgYIABAeEAgyBggAEB4QCDIGCAAQHhAIMgYIABAeEAg6BAgjECc6BAgAEB46BggAEB4QBVDwJ1iaWGDk0AFoAHAAeACAAYQBiAGuEJIBBDEyLjmYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ8ABAQ&sclient=img&ei=CqOHYvaWILnmytMP1uCQGA&bih=937&biw=1920&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644 ..

If the turntable spigot on your Hamilton Beach microwave has arced and burned even after cleaning it with a wire brush, it indicates a potential issue with the electrical connection or the turntable motor. Here are a few steps you can take to address the problem:

1. Disconnect Power: Before proceeding with any repairs, ensure that the microwave is completely disconnected from the power source to avoid any risk of electric shock.
2. Inspect the Turntable Spigot: Carefully examine the turntable spigot for any signs of damage, such as burn marks or melted plastic. If the spigot is severely damaged, it may need to be replaced. Contact Hamilton Beach customer support or a qualified technician to inquire about replacement parts and proper installation.
3. Check the Wiring: Inspect the wiring connections near the turntable motor for any loose, frayed, or damaged wires. If you notice any issues, they should be repaired or replaced by a professional technician to ensure safe operation.
4. Test the Turntable Motor: The turntable motor may be faulty and causing the arcing issue. To test the motor, you will need a multimeter to check for continuity and proper functioning. However, this requires electrical knowledge and experience, so it's best to consult a qualified technician for assistance.
5. Seek Professional Assistance: If the arcing issue persists after performing the above steps, it is recommended to contact Hamilton Beach customer support or a professional technician. They will have the expertise to diagnose the problem accurately and perform any necessary repairs or replacements.

I hope you didn't run the microwave with nothing in the cavity, if you did, it will damage the magnetron. The turntable dishes do get hot depending on the quality of the glass used to make it. Heat is caused by impurities in the glass. If you run it with no food in the oven, the glass will try to absorb the energy with atastrophic results usually.

Thanks for the info about the lifetime warranty, who knew? The two parts mentioned are flow control valves that get inserted at the base of the sprayhead, not the in the hose. The green one says "water care" which will restrict flow more than the white one. It's an either or scenario, not both. There is a VERY faint arrow that points up toward the top of the nozzle. Push it all the way up and reconnect the hose tightly. That's it. My replacement didn't come with a wrench, did that come with the original faucet? One more thing, if you bought a house that has this and don't qualify for the lifetime warranty, don't get stuck paying $100-$150 for this part if you just need to replace the aerator. The gray head that the water comes out twists out with a wrench revealing the aerator. The part number is 13929 or sometimes referred as 1392900, $10-15, if you can find it.

If your Miele H6800BM microwave is no longer heating food and there is a noticeable change in its operation, it is likely that there is a malfunction or component failure specifically related to the microwave function. Here are a few potential causes for the issue: 1. Magnetron Failure: The magnetron is a crucial component responsible for generating the microwave energy that heats the food. If the magnetron has malfunctioned or failed, it can result in the microwave not heating. 2. High Voltage Diode Failure: The high voltage diode in the microwave circuitry is responsible for converting the AC power supply to the high voltage DC power required by the magnetron. A faulty diode can prevent the magnetron from receiving the necessary power and thus lead to no heating. 3. Faulty Capacitor: Capacitors in the microwave circuit store and release electrical energy. If a capacitor associated with the microwave function is defective, it can prevent the microwave from generating the required power for heating. Given the symptoms you described, it is likely that there is an issue with one of these components. It is recommended to contact a qualified technician or the manufacturer's customer support to inspect and repair the microwave. They will have the expertise and necessary equipment to diagnose and resolve the specific problem with your Miele H6800BM microwave.