Masonry Tools - Page 6 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

http://content.powermatic.com/manuals/1791317K_man.pdf

This link will take you to the manual for models 54A and 54HH

You can get the manual on the link below.

http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/ryobi_tool/JP155.pdf

Good Luck please rate 4 thumbs up and please leave a testimonial

My planer does the same thing.

1) I don't make the final cuts on my boards until after planing.

2) I discovered why the planer does this. I don't have a planer table. I use the two metal stands that came with the planer, and they don't really hold the board flat & steady like a planer table would. The planer has 2 rollers >>> one roller is on the feed-end and one roller is on the finished-end. When the end of the board goes past the feed-end roller, it is no longer held flat by two rollers. The weight of the board causes the board to tip up into the planer blade on the last 3 inches. So sometimes I just hold up the end of the board as it finishes ... but it still takes a nip out of the board now and then.

Up-vote if the information helped you. Thanks for the feedback.

http://powertool.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/delta/tp300.html

Try tu make a jumper at the switch, if it start change the on/off switch.

Hello. How frustrating. If this is a brand new tool return it. If it is not brand new, check the rotation of the blade and make sure that the blade is not installed upside down. IF it is upside down rather that the teeth easily cutting the wood, they are bulling there way through and creating all that smoke.

IF the tool smokes when you turn it on and are not cutting anything then the motor is shot and will have to be replaced. Joe

4 thumbs up please. ty.

They call it a "plate joiner".Go tohttp://manuals.ryobitools.com/system/files/5567/original/jm80_239_eng.pdf?2011

Look at eReplacementParts.com and the parts diagrams

Hit every vent hole on the tool with as much directed air as you can, first with the motor off, then with it running to get all the dust and particles out of the motor housing you can. If this doesn't bring it back to life you should check the brushes. I'm not familiar with the Sears jointers but most tools have two caps about the size of a dime or a little smaller on the case you can remove to check the brushes. If there are no caps you will have to go into the case to check them. Depending on the model they should be about 1/2" to 3/4" long, with a spring to push them firmly down on hte armature. The end touching the armature should be square and shiny. If they are less than 1/4" long or burnt or broken replace them.

I'm going to guess that this unit runs on 240V. I would first suspect that you lost one leg and only have 110V going to this unit.

Check that and update this with the model if not the case.

Thanks,
Dan

Try here:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

if you need a part check tool parts direct. if you have the belt, pull the side off opposite the handle that raises and lowers it. you have to roll the old belt off and then you have to roll the new one on. it will be tight and hard to do. if it isn't, there is something loose and that is not good.

I think you are talking about what is commonly called "snipe". This is an inherent problem with all planers, but especially with heavier cuts. You can take lighter cuts, or you can start with a board longer than your intended finish length. You can also put the board you are planing on top of a longer board, then feeding them through together.

http://www.owwm.com/pubs/698/1943.pdf

If you have the remnants of the old belt, take it to a well stocked hardware or auto parts store. If the belt is missing, you will need to measure the width of the outer 'V' on either pulley, the diameters of both pulleys, and the distance from shaft center to shaft center. The folks at the store can compute the proper belt width and length from that. Be sure to set the motor position so that there is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch deflection of the belt at mid-point and that the two pulleys are in the same vertical plane. This will greatly increase the belt life. Hope this helps!

I think the belt is on the other side, put that cover back on, take off the top, take off the gears that lift it, take off the drive side cover, I think the belt is held on with a pulley with a ridge on it, Has to come off, One ridge is going one way to stop it from going in and the other is going the other way to stop it from going out. Now , your planer may be set up a little different, But I think it should be close, If the belt is on the side you have off, just keep going, You will see what I am talking a about. I had the same planer years ago, so they might have changed it. Hope this helps.

First off, the stripped screw may be a major problem. If it is just the screw threads that are stripped, you are in luck. Try getting something under the screw head as you turn it out and pry at the same time (a putty knife maybe). Once out you can check both sets of threads (male & female).

You should not have needed to adjust the tables unless they were out of alignment from the factory or had been in use a long time. The first thing to re-do, is align the tables properly. Once that is done you can then go back to re-setting the knives.

My other suggestion is to ask someone who has knowledge in this to give you a hand. Maybe a local woodworker or woodshop or high school shop teacher.

when standing at the back of the planer you should be able to see the beveled edge, the flat side of the blade should be facing the front of the planer.

You mean you're getting speed bumps? Do you have the blade setting tools that came with the planer? You need them, it will be hard to do without them. It is a little C shaped jig that rides on the drum over the knife, you have your knife sharpened and set in the drum, snug, not tight,under the knife are adj screws, you run the knife setter around the drum and just scrap the top of the knife, do not pull the knife, just go over it barely scraping it, then snug it up, do not tighten anything yet, move on to the next screw, do the same thing, then the last screw, then go back to the first, still good? second, third, now, tighten them up, the setter doesn't pull the knife, just barely scrapes it, but it does hit it. Now do the other side. Both knives will be set the same, no more speed bumps, or uneven cuts. To move the knife back in, if you brought it out too far, use a block of wood to tap it down, make sure you put the elevation screw down first. Do not answer the fone while doing this. It is serious stuff, when those knives start flying. Hope this helps.

you might want to try Dewaltservicenet.com and you can type in your model number to see if they have manual available. If you still have problems let me know.