Masonry Tools - Page 3 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

You may download a copy of the manual here.

You can go to Dewalt's website at http://servicenet.dewalt.com/ or an aftermarket site like www.ereplacementparts.com to find good breakdown pictures of your tool. You can also order parts from them or get part numbers to search the web for better prices.

Go to the Dewalt service website at http://servicenet.dewalt.com and do a search for your model number in the Find Parts box. Use 37-190 (with the dash) or you'll get a long list of parts. The Type 1 and Type 2 don't list a manual but the Type 3 does. The differences in Types are usually very minor, look that one up and see if it fits your needs for your jointer.

Go to the Sears/Craftsman website at www.searspartsdirect.com. You're manual is part number SP5590 and they show it is still available. You can look it up directly or do a search for your model number.

The only place I could find a manual for your jointer was on www.ereplacementparts.com. It's part number SP6173 and costs $19.25 +s/h. The Ridgid parts site (http://www.ridgidparts.com) shows the manual available but they are having problems with their shopping cart system.

It's easier to find parts and manuals with model numbers. On the Dewalt service website (http://servicenet.dewalt.com) they show your motor number is substituted with part number A00903. If you do a parts search on that motor you will see it fits four different Delta planers, all but one has a manual listed under downloads. Find the model closest to your planer.

what are you asking for? a manual for a Black & Decker planer if so there is a website called "produtools manuals 2.1" it has many manuals for many differant items. Goood Luck

With any of these portable planers, the sniping can be a problem that you can minimize. Of course you can use a board longer than you need... but more practically: 1. Take light cuts 2. Make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are at the same height and are parallel to the suface of the machine below the cutter. 3. Provide additional in-feed and out-feed support beyond the little in-feed and out-feed tables to keep your material moving consistently in the same plane from start to finish. you might use support rollers. Take care to get the whole setup adjusted all in one plane. Good luck.

You are looking at a major disassembly to get at the cutter head bearings, everything is built around the cutter head. The motor drives the cutter head on one end of it and the cutter head drives the rollers at the other end. Most of the components have to be removed to get the cutter head and it's bearings out. You can go to www.ereplacementparts.com and do a search on your model number for a good breakdown of your planner and see what you need to remove to get at the cutter head and it's bearings.

If you're looking at the planer from the infeed side, there's a belt guard on the right side of the head. Remove it and check the condition of the drive belt. If it's broke the motor will spin without powering the cutterhead and feed rollers. The drive belt is still available as part number 22-563 on sites like http://servicenet.dewalt.com/ and www.ereplacementparts.com. Just put your model number in their search box and find the drive belt in the breakdown.

You might have the outfeed table lower than the blade. If the outfeed table is adjustable, then you can check it easily with a steel ruler. With the Power OFF, lay the steel rule on edge on the outfeed table so that it hangs over the blade. Rotate the blade by hand in the forward direction. The blade just just barely touch the ruler. If the ruler is bumped up and pulled forward by the blade, then this is the problem. If your outfeed table is not adjustable, then you need to adjust your blades. If this is not the problem it may be that your wood is not uniformly dried.

I assume you mean that the two tables are not in parallel planes. No, I don't think adjusting the gibs is going to buy you anything unless they are so loose that the tables don't seat flat on the ways. If this is a very old jointer, and the ways are worn so they are no longer flat, then might have to regrind them - but that would be difficult. I would measure the amount of "out of parallel" that the tables are at different depth setting after tightening the gibs so that the tables are just a little harder to move. If they are out of paralell by the same amount at different table heights, then I would put the whole jointer (not the base of course) on a surface grinder and grind both table tops. Of course you would need a pretty big surface grinder, depending on the size of your jointer. Good luck!

search and find og google easly available

Go to http://servicenet.dewalt.com, put your model number in the search box and you'll be able to view/download the parts breakdown and owner's manual.

Lower the in feed table to keep it clear of your work, hold a straight edge on the out feed table, both sides, adj the knives to just touch the straight edge, both sides the same, all knives set the same, should work like a charm, do not answer the phone while you are doing this. check all jib screws twice to make sure they are tight. Hope this helps.

The most important part of the jointer is that the cutting edge is perfectly level with the out feed table, then, bring up the infeed table, with straight edge on rear, make all adj necessary to get these things lined up flat, not level, but flat, straight, even. Then it will cut perfectly flat and even. no snipes,. Hope this helps.

I have this manual (17 pages) if you still need it. I could scan it and email to you. How do we get in touch?

Hi,Click on the link below for the manual downloads.http://www.mikestools.com/download/Delta-Planer-Owners-manuals/22-540.pdfHope this helps.Thanks!Ken.

First, safety stuff: Make sure the jointer is unplugged and be very careful with the knives, they are quite sharp.You should have enough room between the tables to get the knives out, if not remove the stationary, outfeed table. There are four hex-cap screws on each knife that hold the clamp bar on. Remove them with an allen wrench or hex driver if you have one and take the clamp bar and knife out. Pay attention to which way the bevel is on the knife so you put them back on the same way. If the blades have never been turned, they are double sided and can be turned around so the opposite side is out. The knife and clamp bar are designed to go on only the right way. Make sure you get the hex-bolts on very tight. Do the other knife, replace the table and make a couple test runs to check allignment.

Can't seem to find anything for the JM80 but found this for the JM82. Not sure how different they are, hope this helps.

http://www.ryobitools.com/product_manual/file_url/601/JM82K_493_trilingual_02.pdf