Masonry Tools - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I can't find the cross reference you seek, and am wondering if Penn State no longer makes or supports this planer. (Here's one archived review from 1996.) However, any reputable sharpening shop should be able to provide you with tool steel or carbide planer knives, or resharpen your existing knives. If the knives have specialized holes for mounting, etc, there may be a surcharge for drilling the steel to fit your planer, but I suspect with the economy the way it is most sharpening shops will be happy to undertake the task. If they balk, find someone who's qualified before you spend the money on new knives. What is important is the the thickness of the tool steel is comparable with your knives and the width is within the specs of adjustment for your planer. Usually normal tool steel will get sharper. whereas carbide is tougher to wear out.
If you can't find anyone local, I can wholeheartedly recommend Precision Sharpening in Albuquerque, N.M. They have quality grinders and do professional work.
If your knives are of the disposable type and your can't locate a substitute, try contacting Penn State Industries here.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

HI I HAVE THE SAME MACHINE AND MY FEED ROLLERS HAVE JAMMED SO AN EXPLODED DIAGRAM MIGHT BE HANDY AS I PULL IT APART
COULD YOU PLEASE EMAIL ME A COPY OF IT TO
PETER BULLARD AT [email protected]
THANKS PETER

It is involved so I recommend going to "dewaltservicenet.com" and under manuals on the left hand side type in your model number and it will redirect you to a page so that you can download the owners manual, it is 17 pages long and the area you need is around pages 10-11 which deals with blade changing. REMEMBER to unplug the tool before starting this. Let me know if you need more assistance

Hi,
A bearing that is on the blade shaft is going bad...
It may be difficult to determine which bearing it is and you may be better off replacing both while you have it apart...

heatman101

First of all check to see if the feed rolls a turning, if it all looks good you may need to lube the table, I use wax ( al ittle goes a long ways.)

Mahogany is a Hardwood and I have found that taking smaller cuts is best.

If rollers spin and it still does'nt work you may have a stripped gear.

Hello,
Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.

-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives

The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
-unplug jointer
-using a straight edge on the outfeed table adjust it so that when you turn the head (counter clockwise) the knives just touch the staight edge (NOTE** all the knives should touch the straight edge the same, if not your knives are not set correctly) This is your most important adjustment, if the outfeed is to high or to low it will cause inconsistant jointing.
-Now that the outfeed is trued up to the head you can adjust the infeed table, using the straight edge align it so that it is perfectly lined up with the outfeed table (not touching the kinives) Your jointer is now at ZERO

You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)

The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.

Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.

I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.

I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
Take a piece of square stock (like 2x2 ) about 3 feet long, make a mark about 2 foot up and wrap a piece of tape around it at the mark.
now make a mark (we will call it a stop mark) on the fence of the jointer by the head.
with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)

turn on jointer and run side 1 until your tape is at the fence mark, carefully lift 2x2 and do the same to the 2 side.
only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.

SHOP DOG

Check to see if your blades are set to the same depth as per your manual. Also you should only be taking off 1/32" at a time for a true cut.

run your boards with a backer board tight against the first piece, should resolve the problem.

go to Dewaltservicenet.com and with your model number you can download a schematic for this tool and also order the parts online. I tried finding them but there are too many jointers listed in the Delta category.

This is probablly a serious problem. The noise could be from several sources mechanical or electrical. The consumables in this are the brushes in the motor. If they are getting very short, they may break contact momentarily and this will creat a magnetic bang as the motor current breaks and is re-applied. The motor brushes should be inspected and replaced and maybe commutator turned if grooved. Another thing is a failing ball bearing. When a failure starts to happen the ball and race can Brinell and spaul off some of the case hardening. Occasionally a ball will "jam" causing a suddeen torque which will be a pounding sound. I would replace the bearings as they are bound to be available at a local bearing supply house and are not that expensive. You have gotten good service out of this tool. Checking the condition of the belt is another thing to do as this may be a gear belt and if it slips a tooth that will make a similar noise. The most important of these suggestions is the brushes in the motor as they can burn the armature and commutator requiring replacement which is expensive if available.

As it should and is meant to. Please read some articles about the proper us and adjustment of your jointer before you use it, as improper use can result in serious injury. See here for starters.
If it is not cutting properly, search the owner's manual or online for jointer tune up and maintenance.
Good luck.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

need a manufacturer and model number

If it's a newer model you'll be able to find exploded parts diagrams and user manuals here.
Otherwise, check the Delta publications section at this site. Bear in mind you might be able to download a copy of a similar model's manual that will provide most of the information you need for proper use and adjustment of yours. Otherwise consult the many fine reference books available that include sections on proper tune up and adjustment of jointers, from places like Fine Woodworking, Taunton Press, etc. etc. They'll have the basic information about changing knives, adjusting and shimming tables, etc.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Today I went past the building where Sunhill used to be located. There was NO sign in front anymore. They were on East Andover in Southcenter area of Tukwila... I think they are gone. It appears that there are other types of these cutters now using individual cutting blade inserts. Sunhill was an importer... they did not manufacture the goods... It appears that mostly companies offer the heads that use the two or four sided inserts. Sorry for the bad news... Sunhill was around for a long time and offered even imported PC's at one time. Bought my first 286 machine through them.

I have a Reliant 6" belt/disk sander
Reliant dd79 3/4 hp, which is suppose to rise to a vertical position.
I need a manual for this.
e-mail [email protected]

You can get the manual on the link below.

http://dl.owneriq.net/d/d56363f4-6fd3-34b4-edad-2156452f698c.pdf

Hi David, W/D here.

You have already covered the normal bases, so give this a try. When planing, cut considerably less, and see if the feed improves. It should. You should probably try this on scrap wood to get the feel of it. Measure your wood, then aim to plane no more than 1/16" on the first pass. If successful, try a bit more, say 1/8". Generally speaking, it is better to make multiple passes taking small amounts of material than to try to get it all in one pass. The wood will feed better, with less checking, and give you a better finished product.

Best regards, --W/D--

Click on the link below to order a replacement set of 12" blades for your Ryobi AH115
http://www.amazon.com/PLANER-BLADE-SET-AH115-RYOBI/dp/B000P8QN8U

go to Dewaltservicenet.com and type in your model number and you can download it from there. If you have any problem let me know before voting and if I have helped please vote accordingly. Thank you

Go to partsdirect.com and type in your model number. From there, you can order whatever you need for your jointer.