Freezers - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Look at the back. There are counterbalance springs under the plastic hinge covers.

The defrost water drain line is located below the evaporator or cooling part, which is at the bottom of the refrigerator and behind a plastic container that is not easily accessible, and in this case you should use a repairman, which is one of the complications of clogged drain line. Water depletion is the result of defrosting, which is fully explained in the article on refrigerator repairs in District 22 of Tehran barfservice.http://www.barfservice.ir/refrigerator-repairs-in-area-22/

The defrost water drain line is located below the evaporator or cooling part, which is at the bottom of the refrigerator and behind a plastic container that is not easily accessible, and in this case you should use a repairman, which is one of the complications of clogged drain line. Water depletion is the result of defrosting, which is fully explained in the article on refrigerator repairs in District 22 of Tehran.

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Hello; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. How do you know you fully defrosted the freezer? You have a defrost timer and heater to do that. Unplugging your unit for a few hours may not be enough. You need to remove the lower back wall cover. There are several screws holding it on and the rubber molding around it easily pulls out. Up plug your unit and remove the lower back cover. 1.) Frozen Drain - Your unit goes through a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours. During the time your freezer shuts down for 20-30 minutes except for your light. If you have a frozen drain, the condensate builds up behind the lower back wall until the cooling(evaporator) coils become plugged up and you do not get any air flow. You may even have a solid block of ice. Repair: Using a hair dryer (DO NOT Use Metal Objects. You may damage the coils.) slowly defrost the coils. This will take 2-3 hours. 2.) Cooling (Evaporator) Fan Failure - Assume the coils are not iced up. Is your evaporator fan running? Part #: 3-60336-001 Cost: $115.00 Check it out: With a multi-meter set to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Is the motor humming, Then it is bad and needs to get replaced. Unplug the unit. Disconnect the motor. Put one meter lead in one connector socket and the other lead in the other motor sock. You should get a reading of "0" Ohms if the motor is good. Anything else the motor is bad and need to be replaced. 3.) Defrost Timer - Pull your unit out to access the lower back. With your unit plugged in, take a small flat head screw driver, insert it into the slot on the time. Turning clockwise one turn at a time, until the freezer shuts off. If you have turned one full cycle, then you have a bad timer. Ok. The unit shut down except for the light. Observe the metal bar below your cooling coil. Is it hot? If not then you may have a bad defrost heater. Lets check it out - Unplug your unit. Once again with your multi-meter set on the lowest Ohms, disconnect each ends of the wire connectors. Be careful not to touch the fins on the cooling coil. They are razor sharp. The connector are hard to pull apart. Put one meter lead in one connector and the other meter lead into the other connector. If you do not get a Ohm reading between 50-250, then you have a bad defrost heater. Substitution: 3-80405-003 Cost: $56.00 This is a glass tube with a spring in it. If it is burner or the spring is broken then you have a bad defrost heater. 4.) Refrigerant Leak or Obstruction - With the unit plugged in. Lay the lover cover the cooling coils. Close the door and wait 30 minutes. Remove the cover. Do all of the coils have a nice frost pattern? Is there a block of ice in the upper right hand corner of the cooling coil. If so you either have a refrigerant leak or an obstruction. In this case the repair will cost you $450.00-$500.00. 5.) If all of the above is good, then you may have a Bi-mel problem. In the upper right hand corner of your cooling coil there is a thermostat. This controls the temperature and compressor start-up. This may explode in the back. Check to see if it is intacted. 5.) Bad thermostat - These can not be checked for failure. If you have check all of the above this may be your problem. Substitution: 4-83053-003 Cost: $68.00

bad cooling unit

Check the radiator for dust. If dirty, clean it, that may solve your problem.

Question moved from Land Phones category. CL is telling you to close the door. The is nothing about D5. Contact them direct. Page 13 here https://www.qremshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Owners-Manual-BSF.pdf ..

bin stat is what is used to shut machine down. if it goes bad in any way, no power will go to the control board. Start there.

Normally because the gasket isn't sealing properly and needs replacing.

http://www.truemfg.com/catalog/servlet/com.apsiva.servlet.HomeServlet
Go to this True web site. It has spec sheets and manuals. Hope this helps you

The Mulluen heaters will be Built into the frame not in the door.

Simple th E means error That e20 then mean error 20 which mean timing will need to be restet .check on the timing bello or beside the display start reduce the timing and the problem solve.

turn stat to off and plug in if trips short in circuitry if doesnt pop breaker check and test compressor and wiring

Please call a local repair service that can test the system.

Hello, Simple th E means error That e20 then mean error 20 which mean timing will need to be restet .check on the timing bello or beside the display start reduce the timing and the problem solve. Thanks .

P1 is almost always a fault on the sensing (control) probe. Check it's end is not wet or covered in thick ice, and check the connections at the controller. If you can, change the probe connections on the controller temporarily. If P2 then shows it proves the probe is faulty. If P1 still shows, it proves the controller is at fault.

I was told the coils probably needs cleaning but I do not see any coils on my igloo freezer. Accepting helpful solutions.

I have the same problem. Could be 2 things. 1) The top lid may not be all the way down sealing. I had to out some weights on top to make it seal better. 2) The lid seal could be cracked, partial missing or just not sealing. Good luck trying to find a new seal. I'm still looking.

Normally overheat situation https://www.google.com/search?q=defy+f350+upright+freezer+manual ..