American Standard Plumbing - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I had the same issue with an American Standard faucet that I installed new 6 months ago. The diverter can be the issue if you have a sprayer attachment. Try unscrewing the sprayer head from the hose it's attached to. Now run the water full pressure with the hose pointed into the sink, obviously :~). After running the water for about 1 minute, connect the sprayer head back onto the hose, make certain the flat rubber washer and ring gaskets are seated in their grooves properly, and tighten until you have no water leaking from the sprayer head/hose connection. Now try the water through the faucet. If the problem was a temporary diverter issue, your pressure should be fine now. Good luck

i assume you are talking abou tthe screen on the faucet where the water comes out. that cap (usually) simply unscrews. it can get stuck over time when that happens i put a wash cloth around it then use pliers to loosen it once the cap is off the screen is usually inside the cap. along with a plastic aireator.. hope that helps

Never use Draino on a toilet. All pipe cleaning liquids are not really a solution, just a temporary fix.

Since you said that the slow draining is associated with both the toilets and the sinks then I am almost certain that you have a venting issue.

Imagine a drinking straw.....now if you hold your thumb on the end of the straw and bring it up abouve the water level water remains in the straw. This is because air can't get in to replace the water. When your finger is removed then the water flows freely.

As with the straw, your plumbing must also breath. I would bet that one or more vents that are on your roof have become clogged with debrise. Squirrels love to throw nuts and stuff down there to build their nests upon.

Climb up there (safety is a priority) and try running a snake (~$10 at lowes) and see if you hit any obstruction. If so, use the snake to dislodge it.

If you would like, pour water down the vents either by hose or bucket and see if the water backs up. If it does then you have a clog. You can also use the water to try to clear the clog.

Thanks.

Okay, you have black gunk in the screens of your water faucets.....This is usually found in homes with old metal galvanized water lines that have a well or Hard Water. To permenantly get rid of this problem you should have a water softener installed and replace old water lines. If you already have a water softener then you should replace all of your old metal water lines with Copper or Plastic (Plastic being the cheaper way to go). After many years of use, the inside of the galvanized metal water pipes get a Gunky Skummy Build up on the inside of the pipes from minerals and particals in the water, usually in older homes and farm houses. You will see this Gunk if you take a section of water line apart and look in it. There is no really Cheap fix for this, But if you and a Partner a fairly handy, you can do it yourself with CPVC Plastic pipe and Glue. By doing it yourself you will save alot of money on the cost of labor. If you can afford it, Hire it out to your local handyman or plumber. After replacing the water lines you should no longer get the Gunk build up and may even notice a bit more water pressure....I hope this helps in assisting you to the solution......Joe

The faucet may have been installed incorrectly (even backwards).

American Standard has the Installation Guide for some of their kitchen faucets on each product's page. A list of some of their two-handle kitchen faucets is available here: https://www.americanstandard-us.com/kitchens/kitchen-faucets?No.%20of%20Handles=Two&page=1&plimit=21 . Home Depot has the Installation Guide for the Heritage wall-mount faucet with Goose Neck spout on the product page: https://www.homedepot.com/p/American-Standard-Heritage-2-Handle-Wall-Mount-Kitchen-Faucet-in-Polished-Chrome-with-Gooseneck-Spout-7293-252-002/100080273 . The current link to the guide is https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/de/deca2fce-73fc-47a2-acb5-efc7232dac17.pdf . These are standard plumbing installation guides. They condense most of the steps of the hardware install into one diagram/step of the guide. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please add more information on the style of your faucet. (Is it a wall-mounted faucet or a sink-mounted faucet?) Cindy Wells

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wA7aLHZ84D4

Download the BILT app and search for your faucet model. The icon is turquoise with a white nut ( as in nut and bolt).
It will show you step by step nearly everything under the sun. Hope that helps a bit.

Make sure that the compression nut is not too tight where it could bind up the plunger rod. I'm sure you have probably gotten up under to see if it is hitting anything. Also, make sure that the lift rod is adjusted correctly. I am leaning more towards the unit being bound up some how.

mixing valve and ceramic washers are defective. American Standard is not what it used to be. Parts are substandard and imported from china. Get yourself a Glacier Bay, and contact American Standard and demand your money back or a credit.

tighten the retain nut mounted under sink.

The Moen #1224 cartridge does NOT always come out easily! Sometimes the retaining nut (Moen part #14986) is jammed from factory installation and can even break on removal. Try soaking its threads with some Singer sewing machine oil overnight and then pouring a little boiling water on the nut to expand it at the same time as you start to turn it counter-clockwise with pliers. Next you may find the cartridge almost impossible to pull out! You do not need a special tool. Just purchase a stainless #8 x 32 machine bolt and screw it well down into the threaded hole on the top of the cartridge. Then use a piece of wood like a scrap of 2 x 4 as a pivot point and put the vee of a pry bar under the head of the screw. Make sure you are levering upwards exactly vertical and you should be able to pop the cartridge out. Clean the hole and grease it with a little Vaseline before pushing in the new cartridge. See photos.

Did you replace or reface the seat (the surface in the bottom of the faucet body where the stem's washer "seats" itself to shut off the flow of water? There are special tools for removing the old seats and installing new ones (available from professional plumbing suppliers), or you may be able to renew the seat's surface with a special tool called a seat surfacer.

If by push pull you mean there is a knob and rod that you use to raise and lower the plug. Look under the sink for a rod extending perpendicular to pipe it will be about 8" long and attach to a linking bar below he push pull rod. Typically there is a small retaining nut that seats around a ball seal on this rod that secures it to the tail piece dropping from sink. Unscrew the retaining nut, slide the rod out and then lift out the plug. You will notice a ring on lower end of the plug piece that you will need to insert the rod thru when reassembling. If you are referring to a fixed twist and drop plug Open it and there will be a set screw on a flat face in the stem portion under the cap. It's usually small straight slot screw but may also be a hex head slot Loosen that screw and the plug will lift off a center peg in the drain assembly.

I would google it . Or look on u tube

My best advice is to believe everything you just experienced... (Perhaps an UNSEEN flaw in the "MONOBLOCK") Buy the replacement faucet... shop around: I spotted it on eBay... (number not close...) ((but still reasonably priced)). AMAZON American Standard 1480 101 002 Seva Single Control Lavatory Faucet with... Also went to eFaucets (but their site was stunned (normally GOOD resource... )) http://efaucets.com/ eBay (concierge... buyer protected... FREE ship'n) American Standard 1480 150 002 Seva Monoblock Single Lever Handle Lavatory... Save the old one (parts)and DIAGNOSE it in your SPARE TIME... Hope this helps Carnac the Magnificent

I take it that you removed the drain trip linkage and stopper through the vent hole .
You must now run a small hand or small power snake the less than eight feet to open the drain.
You can also plug up the vent,tightly and  try a flat plunger on the tub drain .  

In an ideal world you would like the drain end lowest and level from side to side. It won't hurt anything if it is not level, however the water may not all drain out if it is not level. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_aad3edb7dfa380b9

open to drain pipes. remove the collars that hold trap on, sometimes you may need pliers or a pipe wrench to remove.install is reverse of removal the trap is there to contain the gases in drain pipe. if no trap. you will smell sewer water all the time. 1-1/4 for bathroom drains and 1-1/2 for kitchen sink drain.

you have to access the lower control the switch should be an air type one it uses air pressure from pushing in the button they some times crack ,dislodge or damaged and will not turn on or off unit also switch can fail