Cub Cadet Op's Manual Model Lt1042 Lt1045 Lt1046 Lt1050 Logo
Posted on Jul 23, 2011
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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CUB CADET MOWER KEEPS BLOWING THE 20 AMP IN LINE FUSE. THE TWO RED WIRES GOING TO FUSE HOLDER AND THE FUSE HOLDER GET VERY HOT WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING AND THEN IT FINALLY BLOWS, ANY ADVICE.

  • Anonymous Jul 07, 2013

    Kelly, I know it's been awhile since you made this post, but I have a question regarding the Cub Cadet fuse-blowing solutions. In your response, you said "Read for a short with the key in run and lights OFF from the positive battery terminal to chassis ground. If you ar noting a short at this time you are literally going to have to chase wires." I'm having this problem: by reading short, should it show a reading of "0" or what? When testing, mine is reading "40"

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Kelly

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  • Master 3,740 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 23, 2011
Kelly
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Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
The service manual is here:
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/GetFile.do?filename=769-02100.pdf

The wiring diagram is on page 84 of the manual.

Disconnect the positive and negative terminals from the battery and make sure they do not contact the chassis to form a ground. Read for a short with the key in run and lights OFF from the positive battery terminal to chassis ground. If you ar noting a short at this time you are literally going to have to chase wires. I would start by disconnecting the red wire from the PTO switch followed bythe red wire on the PTO relay. If the short goes away I suspect a problem with the wires at the PTO clutch as this is were many wiring problem manifest due to foreign objects thrown by the belt hit the wires on the clutch. After that I disconnect the engine connector and check again. Lastly I would disconnect the dash monitor connector and test again. If you still have the problem after disconnecting the engine harness and dash monitor there is a wire chaffing some where against the chassis. You can find it... it just takes a lot of time.

On another note...
You should probably make sure the ignition switch is not causing your problem.
Key switch testing connector removed
Off = M+G+A1 (continuity) Also read each one to the case of the switch
Run W/lights = B+A1+A2 and L (continuity) Read B + A2 to to the case of the switch.
RUN = B+A1 (continuity)
Start = B+S+A1 Read S to the case of the switch. (continuity)

Don't forget to remove the large (+) wire off of the start solenoid when troubleshooting or you will read the starter winding giving you a false ground.

Troubleshooting will end up being isloation of one leg of each wire at a time. I usually make a straight line sketch of wire temination points by wire color and connection on scratch paper for each wire I test and draw a single angle line across it after I have tested it.

If you determine that the problem is in the engine alternator, I will need your engine model number so I can get the service manual for that also.

A word to the wise.... if you disconnect a wire... write down color and where it was disconnected from on scratch paper. and line it out after you re-connect it. (experience)

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

  • Dan Nelson
    Dan Nelson May 21, 2016

    check the wire coming off our PTO clutch. My was warn through by rubbing on one of the pulleys. This caused the fuses to blow in eventually burned out the switch so the PIO would not engage. I taped it up and moved it away from the pulley. Put a new switch on and a fuse and I am good to go. Hope this helps.

  • Tom J Peshek
    Tom J Peshek Aug 21, 2017

    What a great pinpoint identification of the issue. I looked at the PTO clutch wiring and immediately saw the issue as described 0 frayed wires with no insulation. THANKS

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If none of this helps you out i dont know what you are going to do.
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