445 trans is jerky when you step on forward pedal slowly the trans jerks aggressive changed the oil and filter and installed new charge pump relief valve also put in both free wheeling valves charge pressure is about 300 psi and it reliefs at about 1050 psi i say about because the gauge is fluctuating had the pump and motor out and they look fine no scoring charge pump looks fine also it seems to **** more in foward i have the free wheeling valves in right place any ideas? thanks darrell

if fluid was to thick --probably wrong fluid was in their - possible motor oil - have trans flushed and filter change and replace fluid

Sounds like your transmission is not engaged, but when you step on the gas, it engages and jerks forward. Check your trans fluid level and if the trans fluid is dark, change it.

Maintanance - How to purge Hydraulic drive system Published 01/13/2010 11:56 AM ' Updated 06/02/2015 02:52 PM
How do I purge the hydraulic system?
Hydrostatic transmissions use oil, under pressure, to provide movement for the tractor. The fluid is pressurized with a pump inside the transmission. If any air is in the fluid, the pump will try to pressurize air. This condition is known as cavitation, and is detrimental to the pump since it allows the pump top operate dry. When the pump cavitates it is not pressurizing any fluid, so the transmission is not able to provide the movement needed.
If your mower is new, or has been stored for a long period (longer than 2 months) the transmission needs to be purged before use. Also, if you experience loss of drive, or slower response, then the transmission should be purged first.
The following procedure will remove trapped air inside the transmission(s).

IMPORTANT: SHOULD YOUR TRANSMISSION REQUIRE REMOVAL FOR SERVICE OR REPLACEMENT, IT SHOULD BE PURGED AFTER REINSTALLATION BEFORE OPERATING THE TRACTOR.
Step 1- Place the rear of the mower safely onto jackstands on a level surface with engine off and parking brake set.

Step 2- Disengage transmission by placing freewheel control, located at the back of the frame, in the freewheeling position.

2a- Mowers with seperate pumps and wheel motors the freewheel is activated by turnign the bypass valves, one on each pump, two full turns.
The oil resevoir needs to be filled to the specifications listed in the owners manual before starting the purge procedure.
Step 3- Sitting in the operators seat(riders), start engine. After the engine is running, move throttle control to slow position. With motion control levers in neutral (N) position, slowly disengage clutch/brake pedal.
Step 4-Move motion control levers to full forward position and hold for five (5) seconds. Move levers to full reverse position and hold for five (5) seconds. Repeat this procedure three (3) times.

NOTE: During this procedure there may be some movement of the drive wheels, but they are not under load. The air is being removed from hydraulic drive system.

Step 5-Move motion control levers to neutral (N) position. Shutoff engine and set parking brake. Check and add oil as needed for units with an oil resevoir.

Step 6-Engage transmission by placing freewheel control into driving position, or by closing the bypass valves on the pumps.
Step 7-Sitting in the operators seat, start engine. After the engine is running, move throttle control to full speed. With motion control levers in neutral (N) position, slowly disengage clutch/brake pedal.

Step 8-Slowly move motion control levers forward, after the tractor moves approximately five (5) feet, slowly move motion control levers to reverse position.
After the mower moves approximately five (5) feet return the motion control levers to the neutral (N) position. Repeat this procedure with the motion control levers three (3) times.

Step 9-Your mower is now purged and now ready for normal operation.For further information or assistance, we recommend contacting your lo

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This is for car and truck problems.

there should be a adjustment on the rod to the release pulley

Changing the fluid and filter MAY help. It is worth a try. BUT, If once the car gets warm and it does not want to move any more, that is a sign of a worn clutch pack or the oil pump in the trans. can not build pressure. .... To change the oil & filter, Get you a large cooking pan (like for a turkey) or some large pan 3-4 inches deep. put the car up on jack stands. Remember you will be under it so BE Careful. Remove most of the bolts around the trans. oil pan, (not all) leave those in the corners and 1 in between. Now take those bolts that are left and slowly loosen about 1/2 way then those at the back side remove all the way and let the pan tip down and the oil will drain out into your pan. once most of the oil has drained out, finish removing the bolts and remove the pan. The filter will be right there most will just pull out of It's socket but look for one or two screws to hold it in place. remove the gasket install the new filter, then put on the new gasket, set the pan back in place and start putting the bolts back in. work around in equal steps till all the bolts are tight. add your oil. wait a few minutes and start it up to see if that did the trick.. You will need.... 4-6 Qts of trans fluid. Depends on Car. a new filter and a new pan gasket that fits your car. , a drain pan to drain your oil in, then , some shop rags, Hand soap, and or mechanics gloves. I hope this works for you.

I have same/similar problem.... if this problem happens off and on... runs well one day and next day is jerky-stalling then it's more than likely your airflow meter

checking the inching pedal adjustment, if it out of adjustment it will dump off pressure...

Remove the Oil Pump
1.
Step 1

Drive your Dodge Caravan up onto ramps or lifts so you have room to work as you pull out the oil pump. You could also use a jack, but make sure you brace the front wheels and engage the parking break so the car doesn't roll.
2.
Step 2

Disconnect the negative battery cable on your Dodge Caravan. Drain the engine oil and coolant into separate pans. Take the vehicle off the ramps or lifts. Remove the accessory drive belts and use an engine support tool to hold the weight of the engine.
3.
Step 3

Take out the right engine mount and bracket. Take off the timing belt cover and loosen the bolts on the timing belt tensioner. Remove both the tensioner and the timing belt then raise the vehicle back on the ramps or lifts.
4.
Step 4

Take out the oil pan assembly and remove the oil pump pick-up and the O-ring. Take the crankshaft damper out with a good puller. Use a puller to also draw the crankshaft sprocket from the front of the crankshaft.
5.
Step 5

Loosen the bolts on the oil pump and take them off. Remember where they were since you'll need to replace them later. Unscrew the relief valve.
Install the New Oil Pump
6.
Step 1

Clean all the parts to remove contaminants and debris then install the inner rotor. Make sure the chamfer faces the cast iron oil pump cover on the back. Torque the bolts to 105 in. lb.
7.
Step 2

Install the relief valve, followed by the spring, gasket and cover cap. The cover cap should be tightened to 40 ft. lb.
8.
Step 3

Fill the rotor cavity with clean engine oil to prime it then insert a new O-ring seal into the oil pump. Put Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent anaerobic type gasket sealer on the flange of the oil pump body.
9.
Step 4

Align the oil pump rotor flats with the flats on the crankshaft and install the pump slowly, tightening the fasteners to 20 ft. lb. Add the new front oil seal and install it with the spring side facing the inside of the engine. Even it out with the engine cover.
10.
Step 5

Install the crankshaft sprocket with the special sprocket tool. Put on the oil pump pick-up tube and O-ring and torque the bolt to 20 ft. lb.
11.
Step 6

Insert the oil pan and install a new oil filter. Lower your vehicle then install the timing belt and covers and crankshaft damper with a tool specialized for the 2 mm by 1.75 by 150 mm bolt. Tighten the center bolt to 105 ft. lb.
12.
Step 7

Put on the accessory drive belts and adjust them to the right tension. Put on the engine mount and bracket then take out the engine support tool.
13.
Step 8

Add fresh oil to the engine and refill the cooling system. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, ethylene glycol antifreeze and water in the cooling system. Start your engine and check for leaks.

Well for one, make sure you speed up slowly, dont HIT the accelerator. It may also be problems with your fuel filter. After you are stoped fuel stops running through the fuel pump/filter and then when you start going its starts to run through again and it cant keep up so it gets bubbles in it and doesnt move throught the filter easily hence the jerky accelerating. Good Luck