Http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/4746/KENMORE-Side-by-Side-Refrigerator-L0307175?brand_name_search=106.53759202
The manual says to check to make sure the all cooling vents are open. But most of the time that I go out on a repair call with this write up, it ends up being the freezer being iced up. And this is usually caused when the defrost assembly stops working.
To check, remove food from freezer, remove shelves, remove rear inner panel. Most of the time the amount of ice/frost is hard to miss. I then defrost the unit using a heat gun/hair dryer, and replace the defrost assembly, and plug it in and test it. When we are out of stock of the defrost assembly, we will defrost the unit, put things back together, and plug it in, and then make an appointment with the homeowner to come back to install the defrost assembly when we are restocked.
Hello,
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 Phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
Hope this will helpout...
Hi,
The reasons for this could be that;
The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator
and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is
defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working
Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance
through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical
timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.
For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on
it's own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That
will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up
to the point where it will not work again.
So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.
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