How do i install a 3 way switch with 12/2 wire?

IGNITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1.Remove the instrument panel (IP) cluster.
2.Remove the knee bolster.
3.Remove the I/P center trim panel.
4.Remove the ignition switch wire harness connector.
5.Remove the theft deterrent control module wire harness connector.
6.Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder.
7.Disconnect the park lock cable at the ignition switch.
8. Remove the ignition switch at the IP screws.
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9. Remove the ignition switch assembly.
10.Remove the ignition switch bracket screws.
11.Remove the theft deterrent control module.
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12.Remove the ignition switch bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
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1.Install the ignition switch bracket.
2.Install the theft deterrent control module.
3.Install the ignition switch bracket screws.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Tighten the screws to 5 Nm (44 lb in).
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4.Install the ignition switch .
5.Tighten the ignition switch screws.
Tighten the screws to 2.5 Nm (22 lb in).
6.Connect the park lock cable at the ignition switch.
7.Install the theft deterrent control module wire harness connector.
S. Install the ignition switch wire harness connector.
9. Install the ignition switch lock cylinder.
10.Install the I P center trim panel.
11.Install the knee bolster.
12.Install the I P cluster.
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12/2 cable (Romex, UF, etc) consists of two insulated #12 and one uninsulated #12 conductor or wire. The two insulated wires have a black and a white colored insulation. Number 12 copper is rated for 20 amps. This cable can carry a single circuit with ground.

12/3 cable is identical to 12/2 with the exception being that it has a third insulated conductor that is colored red. This third wire allows one cable to supply 2 circuits (one on black and one on red with both sharing the white and ground wires) with one cable run. It is much cheaper to buy and install a single 12/3 cable than two 12/2 cables to get two circuits into the same general area.

Twenty amp 120 volt circuits in dwelling units are required for kitchens, dining rooms, washers, disposals, and other appliances that require more than 12 amps (but less than 16 amps) to operate. Twenty amp 240 volt circuits are typically for specialty appliances and devices such as electric heaters, pumps, etc. Generally, 20A/240V appliances devices do not need a 12/3 cable as they only require connections for Line1, Line2 and ground. One insulated conductor would be unused in a 12/3 cable serving such a device. A 12/2 cable is run instead and the white wire is taped red (any color other than gray or green, to indicated that it is no longer a neutral) at each location it is accessible, such as wiring compartments, panels and junction boxes.

Circuits fed by 12/2 cables will connect to single pole circuit breakers and those fed by 12/3 cables must be connected to double pole circuit breakers. Check the National Electrical Code (NEC) to determine which locations require GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) supplied circuits. The latest (2012) NEC requires most new circuits in dwelling units (residential) to be protected by AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) type circuit breakers. Consult your local building department to find out if the NEC has been adopted in your locality before installing.

Lastly, a 12/3 cable would be run between 3 way & 4 way light switches and hard wired smoke detectors; but only if they are on a 20 amp circuit. Most circuits in the home are 15 amp capacity, especially for lighting circuits. A 14/3 cable would be run on these circuits as there is no need for the additional expense of a cable with the larger #12 wires and the increased labor to handle, install and connect the wires to device terminals.

I hope this helps. Please rate my reply - thanks!

The switch that you have works like 3 seperate switches. most of these switches will have gold screws
on one side and silver screws on the other side, lets say that the left is gold and the right is silver, and
the switch may also have a green screw for ground. your 12/2 with ground is your main hot, you may
want to mark it with a piece of tape, so you know it's the incoming hot. the ground off your hot will tie,
to the green screw on switch and continue and tie to your vent light which should also have a ground
the white coming off the hot is your neutral, it will go straight to your white or whites on your heater.
the black hot wire at your switch will go to each gold terminal on one side of the switch,there are two
ways you can do this, go to one side and just run a jumper, or put one wire on each gold screw and
tie in to your hot-black wire with a wire nut. now for the switch legs, you will need to run from your, switch
to your heater either another pair of 12/2s or a 12/3, each side of the switch that has one silver screw,
it's easier with a 12/3 normally a 12/3 will have a red,black,white,and ground.
top switch red to red on heater,black to black on light and the white blue on the vent,so from your switch
to the heater you would have to run a12/2 you would not use the black only the white and ground.
remember the white-neutral coming from the switch will be tied to all the whites at the vent,light,heater
except for the 10/3. the 10/3 is used stricktly for the switch legs. good luck!

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

I wish we had more information to go on here.

1) You have 2 cables to to the Heat-Vent-Light
One cable is 12-3 and 1 cable is 12-3

2) That's where it's gets fuzzy.
What color wires are on HentVentLight?
Is power at the ceiling box or at the wall box?
What other wires are inside the wall box?
What kind of switch are you installing?

3) With that number of wires, it sounds like power is at ceiling box.
Power would arrive at ceiling box on one cable that has a Hot-black and Neutral-white wire.

4) Start at wall box:
Let's suppose you are installing a wall device that has 3 individual switches, with one switch for each HentVentLight.
The Hot wire from ceiling box would drop down into wall box on a black wire, and this wire connects to brass screw on switch.
Wire going to heater connects to one of the silver screws.
Wire to fan to another silver screw
Wire to light to another silver screw.

5) Work at ceiling box:
Let's suppose your HentVentLight has 4 wires: Black for light, Red for fan, Blue for heater, and White Neutral.
The white neutral connects to Neutral wire as described in #3.
Black, Red and Blue connect to each of the wires that come up from switch.

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I think you mean that you need to wire a set of three way switches. That is when you have a switch at two locations to run the same load (lights for example). Without being able to draw a picture, I will try to explain this the best I can. You have probably 120 volts coming in on a 14-2 romex for a 15 amp circuit or a 12-3 romex for a 20 amp circuit consisting of a black, white, and a bare wire. You run that set of wires to one of the two switches. Then from that switch you need to run a type of 3-wire cable from that switch to the other. For example:14-3 romex for a 15amp. circuit or 12-3 romex for a 20 amp circuit. Do not reduce wire size if you start with 12 gauge wire coming in from the breaker. Then you again run a piece of 12-2 or 14-2 (depending again on the amp circuit you are running) from the second switch to the load or lights that the switches are serving. Now for terminating the wires. In both switch boxes you just connect the white wires together with a wire nut. The bare wires you also connect together with a wire nut, but also twist a short piece of bare wire in the wire nut. That tail will serve as your jumper to the green screw on the switch. Then all you should have left in each box is two black wires and a red wire. These three wires all go to the switch. On the switch you should have three screws on the sides. One is darker than the other two. That darker screw gets the black from the 14-2 or 12-2. Then all thats left is the black and the red that come from the 14-3 or 12-3. Those two go to the remaining two screws on the switch. It does not matter which one either goes on. That should do it now you just wire the light like you would any other.
Hope this helps. Any other questions feel free to email me.
P.S. Don't forget to turn off the power!!

Only if you have two separate 12/2 lines.

You need 12/3 w ground, because this is needed to connect the two switches and carry the neutral.

You can start with 12/2 power going to switch, then 12/3 from switch to switch, the 12/2 to fixture.

before u start make sure power is off before working with electrical lines ---start with the 12/2 coming into box black [power] white [ground-neutral] and u will have 3 separate lines for the lights so u will have 4 lines total coming in the box== with the 3 light lines take the white and strip back the plastic and connect [wire nut] all 3 to the 12/2 white line --now take the 12/2 black line and connect it to the first switch gold color screw- bottom screw -now take some wire about 2-3 inch strip both ends and connect from the 12/2 black wire connection on the switch and connect to the gold /bottom of switch 2 than do the same for switch 3 connecting the wire from switch 2 so u will have power feeding all 3 switches-- now connect the black lines for the lights to the other side of each switch and ur done

Tell me what you are wanting to accomplish. Are you wanting to run each fan off a separate switch in the same duplex box? The reason I ask is because you are using 12/3 wire to the fans. If you are just going to have 2 switches then you are only going to have power to each fan from each switch. Therefore there is no need to run 12/3 wire. 12/2 is all that is needed and you would simply tie the fan and light wires to that one power source at the light/fan. Now if you are wanting to have a switch for the light and another switch for the fan at each location then that will take 4 switches. You can buy double stack switches and have 4 switches in a double gang box. Is this new construction or old? Please explain what you are wanting and I will be more than happy to explain how to wire it.

It's asking for a ground wire. Run a small wire from the green wire on the fan and ground it to the electrical box.