My heat gun model hg1000k has stopped working while I was using. It is not very old.

all the parts are here

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/hoover-fh50220-max-extract-pressure-pro-parts-c-37315_37419_139660.html

BUT, there are many models and you haven't supplied the model number

https://www.partswarehouse.com/Hoover-SteamVac-Max-Extract-Series-Parts-s/5922.htm

..

Hi,
Allow the glue gun to heat up.
Load a glue stick into the gun and pull the trigger. Use the new glue stick to help push out as much of the old stick as you can. If you can, push out the entire old portion and pull the new stick back out with your fingers.
Use a metal stick, such as a paperclip pulled out straight, to scrape out the nozzle of the glue gun. Do this if the glue is old and doesn't flow well.

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I was given a dead HT3500. Holding the power switch down made unit lights rapidly blink and motor start/stop.
However, before starting repair refer to the HT3500 recall notice.
http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2009/Wagner-Spray-Tech-Recalls-Heat-Guns-Due-to-Fire-and-Burn-Hazards/

Assuming your gun isn't in recall, the repair involves dis assembly and replacing the 470uF 10V electrolytic capacitor on board (it is a tall cylindercal plastic covered part.) Replaced it with a 470uF 16V rated at 105*C. If you are handy with a pencil solder iron and solder removal tools, it is a 5 minute repair. Any electronics technician or ham radio buff can do this job.

You posted under spray gun.
I don't know if you are taking about the gun stopping or the spray rig stopping

The gun stopping:
We used airless spray guns for years.
Maybe your tip is clogged.
With our guns we reversed the tip, and could shoot the clog out.

The spray rig stopping:
Add a comment with more specific information about the type equipment you are using.
What material you are spraying.
What settings you have on the rig that can be adjusted.
How old the equipment is, if it's been cleaned well in the past.
Maybe GFCI tripped if you're outdoors.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer.

Try cleaning the glue stick slot out with acetone (nail polish remover) and a paper towel, or cue tips if you have to get into a small area. that should help to break down any dried glue that may be blocking a new stick from feeding in, or may be blocking the heating element

Hello,

There is a glue build up inside. Most likely in the feeding mechanism, try to heat it up, the unplug, and use like a paper rolled up to try to remove some of the glue. :)

no its not the fuse in the plug but it could be the internal turmal fuse triping out on you,,,if its getting to hot this thurmal fuse will tip out keep intake vents clean and clear when using the hot air gun,,

Dear Carrie688,
I cannot for sure understand your problem. You say, you do not know how to WORK power washer. Does WORK mean FIX...or USE???? I will assume that you wish to know how to use it.
First without water connected and without gun connected...switch on the machine. If it turns, then this means the electric motor is OK. Now connect the hose and gun. Connect water supply. Now always start the machine with gun open. This will help to remove air from system. When pressure builts up, close gun, and machine must stop instantly. If machine does not stop, open the gun again and switch off the machine. If the machine continues working when the the gun is closed, this will result in a lot of damage. I do not know what model you have, because also there are old models that when gun is closed, the machine keeps running. I assume your model is recent. So the machine will stop when gun is closed. Now when finished, switch off machine and electricity. And most important release pressure from gun. Do not store machine with pressure still in it. This will damage machine and it is not safe.
Now if you have detergent, this can only work on low pressure. There are bigger machines that detergent works on high pressure. But the normal system is that detergent works on low pressure. Also before storing, pass fresh water to remove all detergent from pump of machine. Never store a machine with detergent in its system.
Regards,
Fulltech.

As such a simple tool, there are not many differences between one model of heat gun and another - but there are some features which are important. * Wattage - commonly from 1000W to 2000W (a measure of the power of the gun). Providing that there are heat and/or airflow controls, the higher the wattage, the better. * Main control switch - usually mounted on the front of the pistol grip, and normally a 'dead man' switch so that power is switched off when the finger pressure is removed - an ideal safety feature as the heat gun stops if it is accidentally dropped. * Temperature setting - at least 500°C is needed for stripping paint - the lower the bottom end of the range the more useful. A choice of controls make the tool more useful. * Airflow setting - having variable or more than one speed makes the tool more versatile. * Thermal cut out - this will switch off the tool if it becomes overheated. If this occurs, it indicates a fault in the tool or method of use - for safety, the fault must be identified and corrected before the heat gun is again used. * Flex length - lengths of 2.5 to 3 m are normally fitted, this means that when using an extension lead, the tool can be used at the full reach without having the socket hanging in mid air. * Hanging hook - useful for storing the tool. * Surface stand - this enables the heat gun to be safety 'rested' during pauses in the work and after uses. It also allows the gun to be used 'hands-free' when two hands are required on the work piece (such as when bending a plastic pipe). * Nozzles - most heat guns have a range of nozzles that can be fitted for specific uses, generally these need to be purchased separately. The main types of nozzles are: 1. Reducer nozzle - when you want to concentrate the heat onto a specific area. 2. Reflector nozzle - wraps round a plastic or copper pipe to spread the heat around the pipe surface. 3. Flat nozzle - for spreading the hot air over a wider narrower area. 4. Glass protector nozzle - for use when stripping paint on a window to keep the direct heat off the glass.

When you remove old carpet from a room, you will most likely be left with remnants of glued-down backing on the floor. Getting the tile back to it's original smooth appearance can be a tedious task. You will need to make sure that you have a lot of patience and a lot of elbow grease. Start removing the glue by scraping the tile with a heavy-duty wallpaper scraper or a long-handled scraper. Do a quick sweep of the floor. Plug in your heat gun. Once it is heated up, you will want to place it at a forty-five degree angle to the floor and direct the heat on the remaining carpet backing. The carpet backing will loosen considerably as the glue begins to dissolve. The carpet backing will loosen considerably as the glue begins to dissolve. Use the wallpaper scraper to remove the loosened backing. Work in small sections. Once you have removed the carpet backing from the tile, wash the area with warm water and soap to ensure all of the glue and backing are removed. Continue until the entire tile floor is free of carpet backing.