Temperature seems variable in fridge and freezer sections. Periodically the fridge starts beeping, its seems like it stops and then starts again. either way I am finding condensation in both sections of the fridge. The fridge details on the purchase order are: Active Smart (fridge on top and freeze on bottom) - Refrig E442BLT C FP WW TS Many thanks Daniella

SOURCE: Fridge and Freezer losing cooling

we bought a f&p fridge freezer and in summer noticed it wasn't cooling and the freezer wasn't freezing, when the service guy came out he noticed our ducted air con was blowing onto the fridge, once we had redirected the air con outlet the fridge started working as normal, apparently f&p's work on air being convected around the cabinet of the fridge and air blowing on the fridge can effect the temperature of the convected air. hope this helps you or someone

SOURCE: I have a Fisher and Pykel Fridge / freezer Active Smart

on reading the user manuals, it suggests actually calling the F&P customer service numbers and telling them the pattern of the lights flashing.

They can ?diagnose the fault from the light sequence and can then tell you what u need to have fixed.

SOURCE: Model E372b Fisher & Pykel - Beeps with Fridge Door closed periodically-Higest shelves warm lower down freezes things

First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

SOURCE: F&P Active Smart E521TRE Removing freezer back panel

My fridge (E440T but I believe the E522B is similar) had a broken fan wire and i had to pull off the rear panel and re-solder a wire. I created a document for others to follow that shows the rear panel removal if interested at http://www.accentis.com.au/downloads/misc/How I fixed my Fisher and Paykel Fridge Active Smart Fridge.pdf

Thanks to all postings on this site - it really helped a lot.

SOURCE: I F&P active smart , fridge not working but

you need to keep the freezer settings to its minimum so that it flows the air to it's maximun throuh all over the fridze.