I dropped some tile on the shower base while I was tiling. It compressed and chipped the edge. No leak that I can tell but it looks bad. Can I repair this?

Is it leaking behind shower wall? If so do you have access.

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Rubber Tiles

The grout between tiles is just for filling the gaps. The tiles are glued to the wall, usually with "thin-set" mortar. Unless that mortar is in very poor condition it is unlikely that you would be able to remove that single tile without breaking it. The wall behind the tile might be water-resistant drywall (a poor quality situation) or it should be cement-board. I suppose it's possible that there is already a hole in the wall behind the tile, but the hole would be smaller than the tile, and assuming 4 inch (not large) tiles, this is a poor choice to gain access to the pipes. The usual access is through the wall from the other side. During initial construction, a removable access panel is sometimes provided (depending on local building codes and whims of the builder). If there is no access panel, and the other side of the wall is drywall, then cutting a generous hole, and fashioning a plywood panel (with trim around the edge to cover the gap between the drywall and the plywood) is a pretty standard and simple approach (depending on your skills). As an alternative and for more info, here's a link describing how to install a plastic snap-in access panel. Good luck! http://www.diylife.com/2008/06/23/plumbing-access-panel-installation/

There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.

You will need a chisel and a hammer for this. Will have to cover bath tup, shower base, anything that may chip from the fallen tile pieces. Start hammering the chisel behind the top tile, or smash the corner of a tile and try to remove it to be able to start. Be careful not to brake the plaster, this is the biggest problem when removing wall tiles. Keep hammer the chisel, and remove bit by bit all the tiles. Patch with plaster if big areas will get damaged in the wall.

make sure the tub has a lip around the two sides and back if you plan to use it as a shower, otherwise you will have water leaks. yes you need to build a standard frame whereever you plan to tile, use green or blue moisture resistant drywall as well. you will need a sturdy base for tile or the grout lines will crack and let moisture in which will eventually cause the tiles to loosen. you can be creative though and build in a shallow shelf to hold things etc. just keep the moisture un mind if it will be a shower and use appropriate flashing if needed.

You could make a base that would be framed up 2x4's and covered with a waterproofing membrane. lay concrete floor, sloped to drain (2piece) and tile. Or use a fibergass base that fits to studs. And then tile walls.

You have a leak where the back plate goes up to the wall OR there is a gasket missing from the trim installation. If this is a tile shower i would suspect the first and use clear tub/tile chaulking to seal around the edge of the plate paying close attention to the grout lines.

Phil

options, change the blade, buy a more expensive blade, make sure the blade turns true when running, if not the armeture might bent inside the saw.

Sorry,
Thought the service was free
Silly me, only found out it wasnot after I had typed the questioin and thought it would then be aired on the forum anyway
Thanks anyway,
Roger