Heating element stays on, even at fluff air no heat setting. Replaced high limit thermostst and thermistor Air flow good

Short cycling refers to a condition where a heater turns on and off frequently, rather than staying on for an extended period of time. There are a few possible reasons why a Marley wall heater might be short cycling. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the air filters: If the air filters are dirty, they can restrict air flow to the heater, causing it to shut down. Clean or replace the air filters if necessary.
2. Check the thermostat: Make sure the thermostat is properly calibrated and that the temperature setting is not set too high. If the thermostat is damaged, it may need to be replaced.
3. Check the heating element: The heating element can fail, causing the heater to turn off. You may need to replace the heating element if this is the case.
4. Check the limit switch: If the limit switch is defective, it can cause the heater to turn off. Replace the limit switch if necessary.
5. Check the wiring: Make sure the wiring to the heater is securely connected and that there are no loose or frayed wires. If there are any issues with the wiring, you may need to have it repaired.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, it may be necessary to have the heater serviced by a professional.

If your Maytag MDE4658AYW electric dryer is running hot on all settings, even on air fluff, it is likely that the heating element is not working properly. Make sure that the heating element is securely connected to the dryer and that the power switch is in the "on" position. If the problem persists, you may need to replace the heating element or contact the manufacturer for assistance.

Hello Bryan;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

So, here are the probable causes:

1.) The blower wheel draws air through the dryer and pushes the air out the vent. If the dryer won't stop, the blower wheel may be plugged up or not be spinning properly, which reduces the air flow. Check to see if the blower wheel is securely fastened to the drive motor shaft. Check the blower hot air discharge manifold for blockage.

2a.) If the dryer won't stop, the gas valve solenoid coils might be defective. Over time these coils will fail, causing the burner to run intermittently. If the dryer is not heating properly it may not stop. Replace the coils as a set.

2.b) The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the dryer won't stop, it may be because the heating element isn't working - which greatly increases the drying time. Check the heating element for continuity.

3.) Dryer sheets and fabric softener can leave a residue on the lint filter, reducing the air flow. If the dryer won't stop, check to be sure air can flow freely, clean the filter as needed.

4.) Although not as common, if the dryer won't stop it may be because the moisture sensor is either defective or shorted

5.) If the dryer won't stop, check the high limit thermostat. If defective, the high limit thermostat can turn off the heat prematurely, lengthening the time it takes to dry a full load. This is not common.

6.) The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer won't stop, it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat turning off the heat too early. This is not common.

7.) The thermistor senses the temperature of the air in the dryer and cycles the heat on and off. If the dryer won't stop, the thermistor may be defective. This is not common.

If the element was replaced, and now verified that it is not presently shorted to ground, your next diagnostic would be to to test the timer connections per the schematic lookiong for a fused contact that energizes the heater, while set to air fluff setting.

it sounds like you have a grounded heat element and the heat will stay on all the time,very easy to check,unplug the dryer,pull the two wires off of the heat element,with a meter touch one lead to the outside metal cover of the heater and the other lead to one of the element,then check the other side of the element the same way,if it shows continuity on one end of the element it's grounded and needs to be replaced with a new heating element.and every year or 18 months you have to clean out the dryer,i use a shop vac and a leaf blower,unplug the dryer,remove the bottom panel,remove the lint filter and the metal duct that the filter slides into,vac up all the lint you can see,brush out the hole where the filter goes and with a long thin screw driver dig out the lint that's in the right and left sides of the plastic slots where the filter slides in,now with the shop vac set it to blow and blow all the lint from the back forwards and blow the motor off and vac up the lint,after you clean out the cabinet go to the back and remove the vent line from the dryer,stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out to the outside,if you do this every year you'll have less problems with the dryer,your clothes will dry on time and you don't have to worry about a dryer fire.

Sounds like heating element may be grounding out.

Not sure about the hh limit or the element, but make absolute certain that there is good flow of air. Check to see if the vent is clogged. Remove the hose from the back of the dryer and see if air is flowing very hard. Use a vacuum cleaner or a wire or something if it is clogged. Similarly, check the hose itself. If the hose collapses when you attach a vacuum to it, it is clogged. Dryers require heat AND air flow to dry properly. :)

If you are sure you have good air flow at you exhaust vent outside and not a restriction in air flow which are about 85% of the reasons for extended drying times then I would replace the thermostat and the high limit switch they usually come in a kit together, the element is not your problem ,sounds like maybe the thermostat is not letting the element stay on long enough to heat properly

check for blocked air flow as this can cause limit switch to cycle early. go to sears.com for diagram.

You could have a high limit switch that has gone out or the heating element itself has burnt out. Both the heating element and high limit switch needs to be checked by a a/c tech due to both the location and the tools needed for the checks. The high limit switch is a safety device that prevents the unit from heating too much and possibly cause a fire. The possible cause for both of these problems is a blkockage of air flow through the system ( i.e. dirty filter, debris in the condensor coils) Good Luck on your repairs hope this has helped you some

Dave