Water is leaking from the ceiling of the fridge. Not sure if it is coming from the freezer above it or not. I hear this quiet pumping sound and then water starts dripping all over the inside of the fridge. The freezer has an ice maker. The brand is Roper model # RT18DKXKQ04

The pumping sound comes right after the ice maker drops ice? that sound would be the ice maker filling with water. I'm not sure yet if its too much water going in the unit, or splashing out. Can you take the cover off of your ice maker? I need to know what is happening. the problem is where the water comes into the ice maker, a valve allows water to fill the tray. We need to pull the cover to see if the tray is cracked off level, getting too much water, or the valve is leaking. this is the start to fixing it. please let me know, or if you want to give someone else a shot, that is no problem either. my problem is I'm not there, and have to wait for you to tell me more.

Most likely you have a defrost problem seeing how your freezer is on top heres what to do go into your freezer and remove the rear panel of the freezer then assure that there is no ice build up on the inside of the freezer if there is then use a hair dryer to defrost the ice this is only a temporary fix if you were not to proceed within 4 weeks you would have the same problem once again under the condensor is a small drain make sure that this drain is free from ice as well Here is what's happening when you have a malfunction in the defrost system.

• Air cannot circulate from the freezer(where the cold happens basically) to the fresh food section.
• Your refrigerator will run constantly to try to cool the fresh food section. This will develop a new set of problems with your refrigerator. More on that later....
• Excess frost builds up within the coils inside the freezer. This is what is blocking the air flow to the fresh food section
• Usually you will notice the icemaker will stop making ice. Poor air flow and not quite cold enough temperatures in the freezer cause this
• Water will not come through the dispenser on the door. Cold air settles, the water resovoir will freeze.
• Compressor may overheat and shut off. This is when you hear, click, click, click. Not good
• Ice Cream in the Freezer will start to get soft. That's really not that bad. lol

What can you do about this. Let me explain the defrost system in general so you get an understanding of what is going on.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold". They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode. When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool and everybody is happy.what you have to do is do a continuity test on the defrost thermostat as well as the defrost heater and assure that the fan is working as well the continuity test is done with the power unplugged in the machine heres what these parts do Defrost Thermostat
This is the component that controls how long the heater stays on when the machine is in defrost mode. Say the defrost cycle is thirty minutes, the heater may only be on for ten of those thirty minutes on the timer controls. On Adaptive Defrost Controls, when the heater shuts off, shortly after the machine exits defrost mode. Basically if the heater only stays on for ten minutes, the whole defrost cycle will only be about 12 or 13 minutes long
Basically when the heater comes on, it starts to melt the frost on the evaporator. Once all the ice and frost is gone, the temperature behind the panel will start to rise. Once the temperature behind the panel rises to a certain temperature, the thermostat will break the current of electricity going to the heater. Bam, it shuts off and prevents your freezer from becoming a sauna, or an oven. I'm sure you get the drift. The heater is on the bottom of the evaporator coils and the defrost thermostat sits on top of the evaporator coils.
Defrost Heater
This is the last component in the defrost system. This one should be pretty simple. By now if you have read this far you should already know what this does and how important is it. Some defrost heaters are a coil of wire in a glass tube under the evaporator coils. Works like a light bulb basically. The other style looks like the bake element in your stove. They both get red hot either way and melt the frost.
Defrost control or timer. Some refrigerators have a defrost timer. This type works like a clock. Every eight hours or so the machine hits the defrost spot and that's when defrost occurs

Some refrigerators have an Adaptive Defrost Control. This is what makes a refrigerator energy efficient. It varys the length of time it takes the machine to go into defrost. So instead of the energy hogging heater coming on every eight hours, it may be 24 hours, 18 hours, 10.5 hours, who knows. It depends on how many times you have opened the doors, how long the compressor has run. This is good because the refrigerator may not need to go into defrost every eight hours. Now you are saving energy check the tstat and the heater and assure that the fan is working properly and message me back if you have any further questions and please remember when this chat has concluded to rank how this opinion has helped Thanks Again Rick