Have the same issue with the mcwc50dbt.
The relay seems fine, no oxidation on ceramic insert.
I used to tap the back of control panel and sometimes the compressor would start up, cool the unit, but would not come back on again by its own.
I removed the control board this weekend and it looks fine (ie, no burn marks or loose soldered connections on board as seen in other posts), however if I wiggle the wires leading from the inside top of the fridge cabinet to the control board, the compressor will come on, but again will not come on again after the temp is reached. So how do I know if the issue is with the control board and needs to be replaced, or if the issue is something else?
SOURCE: Avanti EWC28 Wine Cooler TOO Cool
contact avanti cust svc they are easy to work with and want you happy tell them your promb but i suspect you need a new themostat
SOURCE: Cuisinart Wine Cooler
If you call (Cuisinart’s service center (800) 726-0190), they will send you a brand new unit for $10.00.
Happy Holidays,
AC Freeborn
SOURCE: where can I find magic chef wine cooler compressor for MCWC52B
My Name is Mike. I have the same unit. The compressor is not bad. Replace the start relay& overload on compressor.
SOURCE: E3 error message on Magic Chef wine cooler
Taken from another poster at Home Depot reviews and similiar to what others have found...
The e3/e4 problem is the "connectors" for the fans to the middle separator shelf are put in the pathway of condensation. This causes them to get wet and rust. PLEASE NOTE: If you decide to attempt this fix, you take full responsibility for your fridge and the outcome. If you don’t think you can do this…DON’T! Call a licensed electrician.
Here is how I resolved my e3 issue:
1) Unplug the fridge
2) Remove all wine and the metal shelves
3) Remove the 2 screws from the middle separator shelf, one on each side on top
4) Remove the 4 screws from the backboard, one in each corner
5) Slide out the middle shelf slowly, on the right hand side towards the front of the shelf there will be 4 connectors you must disconnect before removing the shelf (they are tucked into the shelf). With one hand on the backboard and one on the shelf, slowly take them out together
6) Once you have the backboard and shelf out, you'll see there is a black and white connector, each having a red and black wire on each side
7) These are the fan connectors that are causing the issue. Mine were brown/green and damp (not good for electricity)
8) Using wire cutters, cut as close as possible to the "black" connector on each side to remove it. You will have 4 wires left, 2 from the backboard and two from the shelf (both having a red and black)
9) Take some of the sheath (cover) off of each wire
10) Take the red wire from the backboard and the red wire from the shelf and twist the metal portion together
11) Cover w/ electrical tape!!! Or you will have the same e3/e4 issue
12) Repeat step 10 and 11 for the black wires
13) Move onto the "white" connector and repeat steps 8 - 12
14) Put the backboard and shelf back in the fridge. Be careful not to pull the backboard and shelf apart or your connection may come apart
15) As you slide the shelf in, make sure the wires you disconnected in step 5 are in the "channel" on the side of the shelf or the shelf won't slide properly.
16) Reattached the 4 connectors and then re-attach the backboard and the shelf with the screws
17) Plug the fridge back in
18) Put the metal shelves and wine back in"
Sucks that a $0.10 piece of heatshrink on the connectors could avoid this...? Bad Design.
SOURCE: I need parts for a mcwbc77dzc wine cooler magic
The Magic Chef site has parts in the service section. You select your appliance and model number and it lists all of the available replacable parts for purchase. This is at:
http://www.mcappliance.com/partordermain.aspx
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