Check the inlet valve solenoid wires for resistance with an ohms meter. The cold and hot solenoids should have close to the same resistance. My washer had a weak solenoid causing the hot water valve to close after 4 or 5 seconds. While checking the solenoid wires for resistance with the ohms meter, I noticed the cold side had 51 ohms but the hot side only 8 ohms. Hope this helps.
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SOURCE: my Kenmore H3 Elite front load washer stopped
"SUD" is a Suds Detect error code. The washer will not complete any cycle as long as the error code is present. The following link explains the error and some potential causes:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608687-sud_error
The number one cause of the error comes from using too much, or the wrong type, of detergent. You are required to use High Efficiency (HE) detergent with these washers because the concentration is formulated for HE washers that use small amounts of water. Using the wrong type of detergent can also void any manufacturer warranty you may have.
NOTE: HE detergent does not have a lot of suds, which often confuses consumers into thinking they aren't using enough detergent. With HE washers little to no suds is NORMAL and preferred.
If too much deteregent has been used, using the RINSE/SPIN is recommended to flush the tub, drain pump and lines. IMPORTANT: It can sometimes take several cycles to clear. Also, leaving the door open for a while can allow air into a suds filled drum to get rid of some of the bubbles.
Secondary causes can come from something restricting the drainage system. Most notably, something lodged in the drain pump and/or drain hose(s). I've included a follow-on link that explains how to check the drain pump reservior if required.
Each one of these washers come with a technical data sheet inside.
To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front feet of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.
The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it from time to time to troubleshoot your washer.
NOTE: If the washer program is halted and will not clear, you can attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU), by unplugging the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes. This will often correct most momentary glitches in the oprating program.
In some cases, the error occurs, halting the washer program and the door remains locked and will not open. If this happens, there is a manual release you can use to gain access to the wash and retrieve any items. The following link explains:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576511-door_jam_on_kenmore_elite_and_whirlpool_
Sometimes using the manual release will correct a momentary door jam problem and return the washer to normal operation.
You may want to use a wet/dry shop vac and pull a vacuum on the drain line to empty the wash tub (if still full) BEFORE opening the door.
Read through the information provided and let me know if you have any further questions. I hope this can help you.
SOURCE: kenmore elite H3 washer flashing F,H when gets to
FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:
•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.
"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.
If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet
To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.
There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
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should you pull the screens out of the hot and cold inlets
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