Washer will not spin or agitate. The drain hose is clear, pump motor is running and draining water out, but washer will not go into spin or agitate. What is wrong?

Washer will not drain:

Thedrainwaterpumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issueand even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with amultimeterand remove and replace if needed.Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ

The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it

Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed.If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use amultimeterset on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is freecuzGod is good!


Nowashagitation or spin? try these:

WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Metercheckurwaterpressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash.the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do isRemove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Ortake the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into itATthe other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and udontfeel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. ?

Another testu can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) placeurmeter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take noteaginwhat it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong.Agintake note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part.Aginplace a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same testaginon all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words useurtongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test itaginnow one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.


Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washertransmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor andDrive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.mode shifter and orDrive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THECAMDOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, ?AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS.?However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitatorsplineas wellfor worn broken teeth.

Symptom Check
Click on underlined items for further information Washer does not work and makes no noise

• Check that the washer is plugged in securely
• Check the circuit breaker or fuse box
• Test the outlet for current
• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Test the water level switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch
• Test the water inlet valve
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the motor

Washer does not work but it does make noise

• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the water inlet valve
• Test the motor

No water is entering the wash tub
- or no hot water
- or no cold water

• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the water supply hoses for kinks
• Check the filter screens
• Test the water level switch
• Test the water temperature switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the water inlet valve

The water fills the wash tub too slowly

• Check that the water valves are turned on full
• Check the water pressure at the tap
• Check the filter screens
• Test the water inlet valve

The tub does not fill with enough water

• Test the water level switch
• Check that the drain hose is positioned roughly as high as the top of the inner tub

The water overflows the wash tub

• Test the timer control
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the air tube for damage
• Test the water inlet valve

Water drains out during the wash or rinse cycle

• Check the drain control lever
• Test the drain control coils
• Check the cam bar
• Test the timer control

Wrong temperature of water is used

• Water supply hoses may be reversed
• Hot or cold water supply valve may be turned off
• Water supply hose may be kinked
• Check water inlet valve

Water drains out while it is filling

• Check the drain hose, it should be at least as high as the top of the wash tub, about 38 inches.
• The drain hose must sit loosely in the house drain. Do not seal the air gap around the drain hose or a siphon will occur.
• Check the drain control lever
• Test the drain control coils
• Check the cam bar

Water drips into the wash tub when the washer is off

• Replace the water inlet valve

Water does not drain out of the wash tub

• Inspect the drain hose for kinks
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch (some models)
• Inspect the water pump
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect the motor coupler

Water is leaking onto the ground

• Inspect the water supply connections
• Inspect the drain hose
• Inspect the water pump
• Inspect outer tub for cracks or corrosion
• Inspect the tub seal
• Inspect the tub bearing

Agitator does not move

• Test the lid switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the pump coupling
• Test the water level switch

Agitator movement is weak or moves in only one direction

• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the pump coupling

Drum does not spin

• Test the lid switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

Clothes are too wet after spin cycle This may be a spin problem or a drain problem
Drain:

• Make sure the drain line is clear
• Check the drain hose for a partial blockage
• Inspect the water pump

Spin:

• Test the lid switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

Cycle does not advance

• If the washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer does not advance, the timer probably needs to be replaced
• If the timer does not advance while the washer is in a spin cycle, the timer probably needs to be replaced
• If the timer does not advance during the rinse cycle, check whether water has filled the tub, if not, it is likely cold water related. Check the cold water supply valve, check the supply hose for kinks, check the filter screen and check the water inlet valve

Burning or electrical smell

• Unplug the washer
• Locate the source of the odor then read the instructions in the related section

Foul or stale odor coming from washer or clothes

• Check that the drain line is clear
• Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages
• Check pump for blockages
• Check for build up of soap in the outer tub
• Check for article of clothing stuck in the outer tub

Noisy or vibrates too much

• General tips
• Balance the load
• Level the machine
• Inspect the water pump for a blockage
• Inspect the coupling
• Inspect the transmission
• Adjust the drive belt tension
• Check the motor bearings
• Check the drum brakes

Goes out of balance too often

• General tips
• Balance the load
• Level the machine
• Inspect the water pump

Clothing is damaged

• Inspect agitator for cracks or rough spots
• Inspect for rust spots

No agitation or spin? try these:

WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.


Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!




Washer will not drain:

Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.

Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ

The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it
Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed.

If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is free cuz God is good!






Fix Washing Machine That Won Drain Washer Not Draining Water

those signs are not neccessarily ur timer, u may have replaced it for nothing. both spin and drain problems are likely located elsewhere?

No agitation or spin? try these:

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS.


Washer will not drain:

Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.

Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ

The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it
Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed.

If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuity

Hi,

If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns

It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.


It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.


It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.

If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Good Luck!!

It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump 
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.



• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump 
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.



• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Washer/motor runs but wont agitate or spin...this is often a broken motor coupler. See how to take apart info.
Leaks water...check the pump first. The fill valve and hoses may be the next step. See how to take apart info. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.

Leaks water...check the pump first. The fill valve and hoses may be the next step. See how to take apart info. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.
 

1. Agitation problems and agitator dog repair aid info
   
2. Automatic dispenser information
   
3. Common problems with Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore direct drive style of washers
   
4. Diagnostic Direct Drive washer chart from American appliance
   
5. How a washer works, good to read this first
   
6. Help for storing an appliance
   
7. How does the agitator come off my washer ??
   
8. How to prevent socks from getting into your pump
   
9. Ohm test a common direct drive motor
   
10. How to by-pass a lid switch for testing the washer
    
11. Basic information: Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers
    
12. Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers - How to take apart - Cabinet off, cabinet on, checking or replacing a lid switch, replace the pump, replace motor coupling or motor.
    
13. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore direct drive washer- useful parts breakdowns
    
14. Important disclaimer
    
15. My direct drive washer will fill ok, agitates ok but when it comes to the spin and drain cycle the washer comes to a screeching halt...no spin, no draining and the timer stops, what's up?
    
16. My clothes have a whiting on them that looks like lint.
    
17. My washer has a funky odor
    
18. Noises
    
19. Ohm meter testing a motor capacitor
    
20. Slow water fills
    
21. The wash tubs on my direct drive washer are leaning to the right...why?
    
22. Timer stalls or missing cycles
    
23. Timer will not advance
    
24. Tips on changing a common washer fill valve
    
25. To learn more about washing machines, click here
    
26. Washer Basics: Filling with water
    
27. Washer leaks water
    
28. Washer moves around to much
    
29. Washer will not spin
    
30. Washer sample wiring diagrams
    
31. Washer spins and agitates at the same time
    
32. Washer belts: If your belt on any washer looks like these, replace the belt(s).
    
33. Washer runs but wont agitate or spin
    
34. Washer won't run, agitate or spin
    
35. What is that black power powder or filings under my washer??