Replacing "lid closed" sensor

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

Check the lid switch.  Machines will adgitate without the lid being closed, but it won't drain or spin with the lid open.  The lid switch is located in the rim where the lid closes.

If it agitates fine , with normal noise , drains with lid closed , then the problem is probably the transmission .

You have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling". I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons that i've found.
1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt, which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.

2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it was find for 5 straight years.

Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time, so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120 at most.

Best of luck!

Sounds like the lid switch is not working.It is a safety feature to prevent the washer from spinning if the lid is open.If you look a the lid,you will see a small point that sticks out,The switch is locate under the rim,right where that point would contact with lid closed.

if the unit washes ,,and dont spins check your lid switch first...

I've had the same problem...you can purchase a replacement lid switch at your local appliance parts store for about $35. Fortunatly, the sales person at the appliance store had diagrams and provided instructions to replace the switch. I was able to finish the job and fix the switch in less than 1 hour. Good Luck.

You need a repairperson. It is probably a belt or a switch problem.

Could be the door switch, do you hear a clicking sound when you close the lid?

Does the motor hum at all in drain/spin?

You may try the speed selection switch.....Ive had problems with these.