How to install a relay and oerload protector switch behind the compressor

If the compressor on your Delfield 6125S freezer is not staying running, there could be a few possible causes. Here are a few things you can check:

1. Check the thermostat: Make sure that the thermostat is set to the correct temperature and that it is functioning properly. A faulty thermostat can prevent the compressor from turning on.
2. Check the compressor relay: The compressor relay is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. If the relay is faulty, the compressor may not stay running. You can check the relay by using a multimeter to test for continuity across the relay's terminals.
3. Check the compressor motor: The compressor motor could be faulty and not able to start or stay running. You can check the motor by using a multimeter to test the winding resistance.
4. Check the condenser coils: The condenser coils could be dirty or clogged with dust, which can cause the compressor to overheat and shut off. Clean the condenser coils with a brush or compressed air to remove any dust or debris.
5. Check the compressor's oil level: If the oil level is low, the compressor could be damaged.
6. Check the overload protector: The overload protector is a safety device that is designed to protect the compressor from damage caused by excessive current. If the overload protector has tripped, the compressor will not start or stay running.

It's worth noting that a compressor not staying running could also be caused by a more complex issue, such as a problem with the compressor's electronic control module. If none of these steps resolve the issue, I would recommend contacting a qualified technician or the manufacturer for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose and repair the issue with your freezer and give you an estimate of the cost of repair.

If your Bunn Ultra 2 slush machine's compressor is turning on and off immediately, not allowing the product to freeze, there could be a few possible causes. Here are a few things you can check:

1. Check the thermostat: Make sure that the thermostat is set to the correct temperature and that it is functioning properly. A faulty thermostat can prevent the compressor from turning on.
2. Check the compressor relay: The compressor relay is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. If the relay is faulty, the compressor may not stay running. You can check the relay by using a multimeter to test for continuity across the relay's terminals.
3. Check the compressor motor: The compressor motor could be faulty and not able to start or stay running. You can check the motor by using a multimeter to test the winding resistance.
4. Check the condenser coils: The condenser coils could be dirty or clogged with dust, which can cause the compressor to overheat and shut off. Clean the condenser coils with a brush or compressed air to remove any dust or debris.
5. Check the compressor's oil level: If the oil level is low, the compressor could be damaged.
6. Check the overload protector: The overload protector is a safety device that is designed to protect the compressor from damage caused by excessive current. If the overload protector has tripped, the compressor will not start or stay running.

It's worth noting that a compressor not staying running could also be caused by a more complex issue

You will have a 60-90 fill cycle, then circulate, then another 60-90 fill, then on to ice making. When Ice making starts all remaining functions come on, such as the condenser fan, and compressor. Check for these functions after the initial fill/rinse/fill has finished. if the condenser fan comes on but the compressor does not, you very well may need a control board located behind the on/off switch panel. With constant heavy loads/usage, and or a dirty condenser coil the compressor relay solder joints often become weak and short open on the board, this can sometimes be fixed by just cleaning and re-soldering the relay joint on the board. Pleazer Appliance...

The first thing to check is the thermal protector (circuit breaker). It is a small black button mounted on the housing on the back side of the pump motor. The unit will have to cool down before the button will reset. Usuall causes for the thermal protector to pop are: running the compressor on an extension cord, running the compressor on power lines or circuits that can't carry enough amps to run the motor, or little or no oil in the compressor causing excessive friction and heat buildup. If the thermal protector isn't tripped the next thing to check is the pressure switch. If the springs inside are broke or damaged they won't trip the switch to turn the compressor on. If the capacitor(s) are bad the motor will hum and/or try to turn but not have the power to start spinning.

This is a bad compressor, or overload-relay kit. Disconnect the power, remove the overload-relay from the compressor, and test the three compressor terminals for continuity . You should have continuity between each terminal, and you should not have continuity between any terminal and ground. If this tests ok, then replace the overload-relay kit. This is a common repair for me, and it is very rare for us to find a bad compressor, so you should be ok. If it is a bad compressor, and it is less than five years old, you have a five year sealed system warrantee, that will cover the repair cost. If it is over five years old, it is not worth repair. When you are done with the repair, make sure you install a 2000 joule or higher, surge protector to protect your refrigerator from this type of repair in the future. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

damage was caused by electrical problems, you can check from Thermostat, whether still working or not. then check the timer on your fridge, the timer's function is to turn off and turn on the compressor, periodically. and do not forget to check the overload / thermal protector and relay (PTC) attached to the compressor.

Remove the main control board , and look on the soldered side , behind the small black boxes . You will be looking for a " bullseye" which is a pin , where the solder has become unsoldered around it . If you find it , resolder and it should work . If all solder joints , behind the boxes look ok , then replace the board .

Possibly three things, either a thermostat problem, starter relay/capictor, or a bad overload protector not closing after an overload. The starter relay should be behind a black box located on the side of the compressor.

Sounds like the compressor starting relay. This should be available from from most appliance parts retailers that carry refrigeration parts. It is probably a plug-in relay which is easy to replace. PULL THE PLUG UNTIL YOU GET IT! Constant cycling on the thermal protector will damage the unit.

Ray

STOP! DO NOT RUN UNTIL YOU GET PROPER PART!
I hope you have not ruined the compressor by now. Your original problem was that your compressor start relay assembly was bad. The click noise you were hearing was the overload protector preventing damage to the compressor. When you bypassed this relay and overload protector you may have burned the windings of your compressor. You would need a compressor tester or you will need to put a good relay overload assembly on to see if the compressor is usable now. If the compressor is destroyed the repair bill could run from about $350.00 to $700.00 depending on model and technicians labor charge.
I hope I have helped, supertechks