Compressor runs, freezer temp at 8 degrees, but refrigerator section temp is at 51 degrees at the coldest setting. Unplugged refrigerator for 8 hours yesterday to thaw any "ice plugs" and got some water on the floor. Fan in back by condenser is also running, and fan behind freezer panel is running. Coils behind the panel in the freezer are frosted up. There doesn't seem to be any air coming out of port in refrigerator section, and the ports are clear.
Check for air flow into the fridge compartment. In these refrigerators,
incoming cold air is ported in at the top left-hand side of the fridge
compartment...the problem has to be with the return air vent inside the beer compartment. The return air port in a Maytag side by side
refrigerator is located behind the crisper drawers in the beer
compartment. Condensation can freeze in a sheet over this port blocking
the return air flow, creating a warm compartment.
Poor
cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside
of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of
the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator
is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour
period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails,
the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much
frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't
draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling
because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling
in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an
inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is
with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from
the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have
several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip
pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually."
When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the
thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools
properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the
self-defrosting system:
IfThe defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater
it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the
refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting
refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under
the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get
coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly.
The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device
behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator
from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the
Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the
coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of
the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the
remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
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HI,
As you have told that,that you have tried defrosting the refrigerator, but still its cooling is not proper, and you have Ice build up the coils. You need to gets the cooling gas levels checked. This may be the only problem, as the compressor you told is running all the time.
Cover all the wiring with plastic and try pouring warm water over the coils ,to open them up.May be this works. Otherwise check the GAS levels. I don't suspect anything else to be worng . If the unit it turning on and cutting of normally.
Thanks
Mandeep
Hi Tin Man!
You may have identified the problem with the frosted over freezer coils... are they to the point of being ice encased? In addition to cooling the freezer, this is also the primary source for the refriferator cold air... I would try defrosting the unit again, with it disconnected from power, try and go longer this time, with the doors open.
When you power back up, reset both temp settings to mid-range (5) and let it run at least 8-12 hours to stabilize... try to avoid opening the doors too much while it cools down, and see how it does.
If it still doesn't cool down sufficiently, you may have damaged air control port flaps, not allowing the cold air introduction into the fridge compartment.
This could also be a control/sensor issue, i.e.: the setting knob is malfunctioning, or the temp sensor might be bad, as could the electronic controller.... in other words the info source and control system that directs how the flaps are opened and closed might be at fault.
Refrigerators have become much more sophisticated since the advent of the microchip, but the basics still apply... just try and use the process of elimination to isolate the problem.
Hope this helps and good luck!
-WB
Check / Clean the condenser coils at the back.
Remove the cover panel at the back to reveal the coils.
Use the long, narrow nozzle on
your vacuum and start cleaning
wow nice solution, very complete
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Check the ventilations my friend
please rate this solution as fixya if you get helped or let me know what happened further fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. A ball of ice on the coils and the rest of the cooling coils are bare or only a few coils frosted a little and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture one, example picture two, example picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.
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