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The armature AND electric field must together replaced to get a safe working again, and the defect will not repeat if it be shure have its operating hours on it and give a full service.
Bosch brute is made to work all day every day and will continue to do so if it is not over or under powered and properly lubed. If not powered correctly, motor will not turn at full rpm, get very hot and burn brushes to point that auto stop feature will stop motor (brush will push away from armature, or burn switch). The hammer will overheat if too long or wrong gauge of cord is used. Also if run on generator with voltage /cycles incorrect. Under normal use, motor will not get very hot. Another problem with overheating is that the grease will melt out of range to do any proper lubrication. If you are sure that it is getting proper voltage /amps then may need lubrication or bearing work. Remove bearing cover and turn armature by hand. It should be easy to turn. If stiff, suspect bearing/grease. With amp meter connected, check amp draw and compare to rated amps.
go to Boschtool.com and on the lower left hand side you will see a box, put your model number in there and you can download one. If you still have trouble let me know and I will try another route.
Chech and see if the top selector is fully engaged, if it is, then you will have to replace the gearbox assembly. Any Bosch service dealer will have this part
Sounds like you have a broken connecting rod. The easiest way to check for this is to remove the 4 cap head bolts holding the cylinder on and remove it. If the hammer piston comes off with the clinder you should be able to see the break. If that is ok you may have some stripped gears or a broken spindle somewhere. But I really think it is the connecting rod.
Put the screw back in the chuck, tighten it up then back it out 1 turn. Take a punch, put it in the chuck and give it a quick hit with a hammer. That should do the trick.
What age is the machine? If it is fairly new it might just need to be run a while for the grease to loosen up. If it is older you will need to make sure it has enough grease. These tools don't need a great deal of grease, but too little will soon be thrown about and disperse too much. Another problem with these is if the inner cylinder, that moves up and down to create the pressure for teh striker, has a hairline crack, it can be quite hard to see when the part is dirty. When running though air will leak out and you will loose hammer action but still have plenty of vibratiion. Another thing to check is to take the piston/cylinder and striker out and hold it facing down. The striker should slide out slow and steady. If it falls out too fast then the cylinder and/or striker is worn. You may be able to rectify this by applying a bit more grease. If it doeesn't fall out at all then there is a build of grease behind the striker causing a vacum holding it all together. You can solve this by pushing the striker in a little way, and leaving it standing for an hour or so with cleaning solvent on top. It should work it's way in and help release it. It may still need to be 'persuaded' out a bit aswell.
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