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The first ring is pos 88 remove but wait ,! first solvent clean the whole head and the fitting part of the chisel try first before take any operation on the chisel to shift the rubber gasket on the bit with a little screwdriver if its cleanwet before all and then remove pos 88 a locking ring then look good on the parts order of your right powertool diagram setting of your hammer.
If its cleaned and the parts are removed from the
locking sleeve wher the chisel is in place the chisel with whole hammer in a vise and only then if the 2 locking devices out the locking sleeve are removed take a
bench hammer with the point on the front part pos 94 between chisel and hammer sleeve and with a heavy mallet on the bench Hammer the machine from the chisel.
unmount the locking rings pins or ball of the toolholder while chisel is inside its possible make the parts short time hot with a burner not to long (where safety glasses ) and leather apron in case of splinters that can come off . spray some wd 40 on the hot part before use a bench vise to set the chisel in with machine on it and the beveled edge of the benchhammer on the front of the tool holder and with a second hammer beat the other site on the benchhammer to work slowly the machine will come off from the chisel. in most cases the drill guide has been worn out from the chuck in case off a cheap rotary hammer it make no sense to do it all. because it has had it working hours on it.
A vise is a must (do a safety goggles) hard steel on hard steel can deliver hot splinters at this job, put it the chisel with the machine fixed cross in a vice place the chisel lock on the machine open and slam a fist hammer slowly machine of the tool down.
If the bit turns freely it's possible you have the change ring in the forward position. The HM0860C is a demolition hammer, not a rotary hammer so the bit should not be rotating under power for any reason. On the HM0860C the changing ring on the nose does slide forward to let you choose and lock the chisel bits in 12 different angles. Check to make sure the change ring is in the locked position.
The SDS designation relates more to the type of chuck on the tool for the bits than to the tool/drill itself. There are both chisels and drill bits with SDS-Plus and SDS-Max shanks, SDS-Max being the the larger of the two. As far as the tools go: Demolition hammers will only hammer and can only use pointed chisels, scaling chisels, scrapers, etc, not anything like a drill bit that requires spinning to work. Rotary hammers can hammer and rotate the bits. Rotary hammers have a selector switch with two or three positions; one for hammer only for the above demolition bits, one for rotary hammer for use with carbite tipped drill bits, and some have a position for rotation only. The rotary hammer is a more versitile tool but more expensive because of extra workings inside.
I know this is not the answer you want but I have an older 65LB. Boch Electric hammer drill and breaker combo that I bough used for 400.00 with a new 1 In bit and chisel.Ran great for several years than the drill quit. Hammer would still work,I took it to a shop that I trust and they said they armature was cracked and would cost in excess of purchase price for parts and labor. I checked on several sources and got the same answer. Sorry I can't help you more
if you have access to a vise I would lock the chisel in it and pull on the release collar and then take a dead blow hammer and "tap" on the drill to try and pull it away from the chisel.
Brute hammer uses special grease sold as service kit. This kit contains enough grease to lube hammer and replacement bolts that hold springs along the bottom. Check www.toolpartsdirect.com for parts and kit. Remove the lower half (tube) of hammer, also remove three bolts that hold springs and remove assembly from tube. Wash out old grease. Grease will be oil-like only when hammer is very hot, otherwise grease is paste-like. Good luck.
Sounds like you have a broken connecting rod. The easiest way to check for this is to remove the 4 cap head bolts holding the cylinder on and remove it. If the hammer piston comes off with the clinder you should be able to see the break. If that is ok you may have some stripped gears or a broken spindle somewhere. But I really think it is the connecting rod.
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