GE GSS22SGMC BS s x s freezer frost build up

Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm

1. Evaporator coils are frosted over

If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the first step is to check the defrost system for problems. A key indicator in determining if perhaps you have a refrigeration defrost problem is visible frost on the evaporator coils. If your unit has frost you will need to check your defrost heater assembly, the defrost control, and the evaporator fan motor for a malfunction. Replace any erroneous parts as necessary.

1. Damper

If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the damper door could be broken or jammed. The damper is a door that opens and closes to allow cool air to flow from the freezer into the refrigerator unit, and if it fails to operate correctly, not enough cold air will enter the refrigerator to keep it cold. The damper can be replaced if it is no longer operating properly.

1. Thermistor

If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the thermistor connected to the control board might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor that examines the temperature inside the unit. If the part is defective, the refrigerator could not cool properly.

1. Temperature control board

If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the temperature control board could be at fault. The temperature control board distributes voltage to the fan motors and compressor to keep them functioning. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.

1. Defrost thermostat

Another issue that can cause your freezer to be cold while the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be is the defrost thermostat. In order for the defrost heater to activate to melt away any excessive frosting on the evaporator coils, the defrost thermostat must sense that the temperature is cold enough to activate the defrost heater. Without this continuous cycle, the frost will excessively build up on the coils and prevent proper air flow inside the unit. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity with an ohm meter; if it's not present, the thermostat will need to be replaced.

1. Main control board

A possible cause for a freezer that's cold but refrigerator that's not as cold as it should be is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit, controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time. However, it is an uncommon cause for this issue. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.

Refrigerators that self defrost have three main components that cause defrost to take place. On your model GTH18ECC2RBB there is a WR55X10397 Defrost Control Board

This part is most likely the problem and is found inside the fresh food compartment and inside the control panel. The location is 257 in this photo HERE Sometimes the defrost control board will show burn marks but not always. The other two parts that may be defective are the WR51X10038 Defrost Heater

The WR51X10038 Defrost Heater is location 618 in photo HERE
and the=> WR50X10071 Defrost Thermostat

The defrost thermostat is location 630 in photo HERE a tutorial of how to test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat can be found on the parts pages listed above. I will try to put the defrost heater test below. I think the defrost control board is most likely the problem here so look it over first. Manually defrost the evaporator with a hair drier so you can remove the defrost heater and test for continuity. I am here should you have questions Thanks Sea Breeze

Replace the thermistors #4 and #5 . 4 is the white bullet looking piece on top of the coils inside the freezer , with 2 white wires . 5 is at the bottom of the freezer , on the left side . These thermistors tell the main board , the temp and the board goes into defrost according to temp the thermistors "tell it " .

Your unit is not defrosting, causing the unit to build up ice and not allow the air to flow. There are 3 possibilities, listed with the most likely first.
1. The DEFROST HEATER in the freezer section, just behind the cover along the back wall of the freezer.
2.The DEFROST BI-METAL which is just about the HEATER, it is a small round thermostat that keeps the HEATER from getting too hot
3. If both of those parts are good, then you have a bad MAIN BOARD. The board regulates the defrost cycle, which replaced the older defrost timers.

Replace the defrost terminator thermostat in the freezer.

the defrost timer is built into the mother board / but before replacing it / I would ck the heater's and if bad replace them there is a newer style and also replace the defrost terminator . and if you still have the problem then repl the main board .. mm

This problem is usually caused by a blown defrost heater in the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator, remove the back lower panel inside the freezer. Defrost the aluminum evaporator coils. At the bottom of the evaporator is your defrost heater with two wires going to it. Remove the two screws holding it on and pull the heater out carefully. You will usually have to jockey it from one side to the other to remove it. It is a glass tube heater with an element running through it. If it is blown, it usually is black. You can do a continuity test on it also, to be sure. If it is good you can easily see the complete heater inside the glass. One of the wires goes up to the defrost thermostat which is usually clamped onto the top of the evaporator. Inspect this also to see if the top has seperated from the round base or if it is pushed out. Replace if it has blown. You can only do a continuity test on this if the defrost thermostat is colder that 50 degrees. This is a very common repair, I carry two of the replacement defrost heaters, and I always check for this first when I see a defrost problem with this model. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

sounds like your defrost heater termanator switch,or defrost timer is bad-mike

Due to the frosting up, The glass defrost heater broke. Any good tech knows this happens. The defrost heater must be replaced. If this is a GE side by side. The new replacement heater has dual elements. The standard heater that was put in them, was not large enough to defrost the coils fully. Replace heater and you should be fixed up. I would also replace the thermostat while you are in the freezer section they are only like 15 bucks and this way you will have a new defrost circuit.

Hi, You will need to remove the rear panel and test the defrost heater and the bi-metal switch. The defrost heater is a very common problem with this model. You can check continuity on both the heater and bi-metal to detern which one need replaced. The bi-metal switch needs to be tested while it is could. If both of these parts prove to be ok, you will need to change the mother board.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic