Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in Refrigerators How to Test your Defrost Timer
We had the same problem. Our frigerator is 1.5 year old. Everytime we try to dispence water or ice the dispencer clicks and the whole thing turns of. We had a GE repairman come by: the electronic board needs to be replaced: total cost $350. (cost of the board only: $150. We are considering disconnecting the dispencer by unplugging the board (according to the repain man the ice maker wil still work)or buy a new refrigurator (for sure NO GE!!!!!!)
SOURCE: GE side by side fridge, water dispenser is not working
I fixed mine by leaving the light on the dispenser on. It took about 6 hrs, but the little heat from the light bulb was enough to defrost the water line.
SOURCE: Ice dispenser not dispensing
With your power going off your problem sounds like a dispenser control problem..you can check for power at the auger motor
38 5304430812 A B C Power Board
38A# 5304421617 A B C Switch-micro,single pole ,double throw
38C 5304430991 A B C Board-control
I would remove the dispencer cover and check the boards for burn marks
hope it helps
SOURCE: water stopped running in the dispenser
I had a simular problem! I tried multiple things to make it work!
- bought new filter
- open back of the fridge... (dual outlet water valve)
Finally, I went to a different forum and found a unique idea.
First at the very bottom of the fridge theres a cover remove the cover and you should see the water hose running to the door from the back. In the middle of the hose there a coupler where the hose was spliced by the manufactuer. Now this valve once you separate it will not work correctly, unless you buy a new coupler (4$)... I'm el cheapo, I bought teflon tape for 50 cents (from previous project)... Wrapped around about half dozen times and made sure it wasnt leaking...
Secondly, when you disconnect the coupler no water should shoot out, until you press the water dispenser arm. If water shoots out of the hose on the bottom then you problem is really, really, really easy. You have simplely ice/ or another item blocking water hose to the actual dispenser.
I turned off the frezzer left the door open for an hour or so. I also used my wife's blow dryer on hot, and put it where the ice comes out of the ice maker. I would press the arm peridocially to see if the ice blockage melted yet. REMEMBER: door must be closed for pressure to push on the ice blockage. Thinking back, I might have been finished sooner... I was thinking the water dispenser would work with the door open.
If this doesnt work, then you have other problems... Bad water dispenser selonoid (you can hear this little motor turning even without water), dual water outlet valve maybe broken... Going outside my knowldege level at this point.... But i guess you computer board maybe going bad. Not sure if this computer has anything to do with water dispensing....
Hope this helps! My wife left me alone for about a day or two while she enjoyed the water dispenser...And she broke the vaccum.
SOURCE: kitchenaid side by side too cold. Freezes everything.
the damper motor on the refrigerator portion is not working properly
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