SOURCE: 'ice dam' on bottom of freezer, now problems with fluctuating temps
Kat, you only have 1 problem happening.And no this is not due to the original repair. (though I have to admit... replacing the filter/drier, starter and compressor is NOT part of routine maintenance and has me a little befuddled.) Your evaporator drain is plugged. Most likely with what we in the biz call "bio-gookus". This is normal, but must be cleared to keep the water from puddling and coming out your freezer door. With the evap panel removed and the drain hole exposed, pour 1/4 cup of HOT water into the drain hole. Use a small screwdriver or other small instrument to pick out the ice buildup. Once this is clear, use something like this http://www.azpartsmaster.com/shopazp/Gallo+Condensate+Blowout+Guns+(A66800).html to blow out the rest of the lines. After doing this, pour more hot water into the drain to verify free flow. This will take care of your leak problem. Now... the frost buildup. NEVER RUN YOUR FRIDGE WITH THE PANELS OFF! They are there for a reason, believe it or not. They direct air flow across the coils (both evaporative and condensing). Frost buildup is normal, though you may be experiencing higher levels of frost because of the panel missing...Your fridge utilizes an automatic defrost system. It'll initiate every 8 hours. This is controlled by a timer located in your fresh food section. The defrost heater RARELY fails on these. Fix the evaporator drain and replace all panels. This will solve your dilemma.
SOURCE: fridge was in storage 4months fan work but not freezing.
is there ice building up in back of freezer?mike
SOURCE: Fridge stopped working, freezer still works
HI
If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:
Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator.
Step 2: Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Remove the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.
Step 3: Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.
Step 4: Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.
To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.
SOURCE: GE TFX20SA back wall of freezer freezing (snow
CLICK HERE for an expanded view of your freezer section.
Can you see the evaporator fan moving when it is plugged in?
Otherwise your defrost timer has failed.
#257 in THIS diagram
CLICK HERE to see the part.
CLICK HERE for testimonials about installing the defrost timer yourself.
Thanks for using FixYa - a VERY HELPFUL rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
SOURCE: Water leaking and freezing at bottom of freezer in
Clean the drain pan and drain line in the back of the freezer section
underneath the evaporator coil. (hint: use turkey baster with hot water)
Make sure water drains when you
pour it in. If it doesn't - also clean drain tube on the back of the
unit behind the cover. When done - put the tube exactly where it was.
Good luck! :)
Vlad
First
Choice Appliance
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