Replacement grease for drum shaft seal

The grease would end up on your garments.. replace the drive shaft and bearings, then STOP USING LIQUID DETERGENT. use only HE powder!!!
Whirlpool Washing Machine Tub Seal and Bearing Kit W10435302

Something has probably got behind the drum. Usual suspects are broken underwires from bras and hair clips or pins.
Spin it by hand when empty, both ways and see if you can figure out where it is at. Check the filter and the flexible rubber hoses from the drum drain point to the filter and the filter to the pump. Give those hoses a squeeze and see if you can feel anything in them. I have found bits of underwire, coins and small metal items. They are removable with a bit of effort, but be prepared for water spillage. Take a photo before you remove anything so you can see how it all fits back together.

Please check this link for a visual indication.
Click on : Removing for bearing replacement

this just takes a bit of mucle and time.

remove rear pulley and then refit screw (without washer) into shaft. screw the whole way in. then using a lump hammer knock shaft out. may take a good bit of hammerin.

knock bearing out then and also unclog the weep hole in bearing housing.

grease the bearing housing and press in new bearing and seal.

if old shaft damaged ( which prob is if hard to knock out) you will need to replace it.

screws holding shaft to drum usually impossible to undo so drill them out using a 8mm bullet bit.

fit new shaft, put some bearing grease on the bearing seal and re-assemble the drum

The metal covering piece is probably the outer seal for the front bearing--you remove both by driving the bearing out with a long metal rod (or a long punch) that reaches all the way through from the back (you have removed the inner drum and end shaft first). Tap fairly gently on the rod with a hammer and move the bearing end to another location after a few taps. The seal should pop out first, with the bearing next. Once out, look for a number on the bearing edge--it should match the replacement. Inspect the surface where the seal mates with the shaft--it should be pit and wear free. If it is not, a local machine shop should be able to repair that surface (and cheaper than a new inner drum assembly). It is essential that this surface be perfect as it keeps water out of the bearing behind it. The seal can be reused if it still fits fairly tightly on the shaft and that it was not damaged during the removal process. Check with a local bearing supply house to get a replacement bearing. The new bearing will have been greased at the factory, but you need to grease the shaft and inner seal lip with waterproof grease before installing the seal. Don't strike the inner part of the new bearing, only along the outer edge when tapping it back into the housing. Same with the seal. The far end bearing will likely be good and not need to be replaced--slowly turn the inside part and feel for any roughness which would indicate the need for replacement. If so, it gets tapped out from the front side in a similar manner as the front removal. Good luck!!

Hi. Thanks for using fixya. I can help you. When clothes get marked or torn in your dryer, check these: Rollers Your dryer may use rollers, or wheels, to support the rear of the clothes drum. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rollers wear out, you need to replace the whole set. Rear seal Your dryer may have a felt-like seal at the rear of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, clothes can get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rear seal wears out, you need to replace it. Front glides Your dryer probably uses nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the glides wear out, you need to replace them as a set. Front seal Many dryers have a felt-like seal at the front of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, the clothes in the dryer may get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the seal wears out, you need to replace it.

You wouldn't believe how common that is. If you can see part of the underwire, unplug the machine first! Then, try to pull it out through the holes in the rear of the drum with needle nose pliers or vise grips. I can't stress enough the need to unplug the dryer first. On certain brands the heater is right behind the rear panel and depending on certain circumstances there could be 120-240 volts to the heater even though it is not hot and the underwire could either be shorted already or will short when you try to pull it out.

1. for drum brakes with sealed hub(all one piece) remove lug nuts and wheel.
2. spray penetrating oil around studs if there is a big phillips head screw visible remove it with impact driver/if not use big ballpeen hammer ,tap on flat of drum near studs(becareful not to hit them) until drum loosens(your creating a shockwave to loosen rust)
3. once drum is off there are 4-bolts coming in from behind backing plate, remove them then hub should be able to be removed w/a little persuation from hammer.

with out sealed hub ,

1. remove wheel
2. remove dust cap,cotterpin,star washer(if equipped) do not re use cotter pin
3. remove nut then washer, wiggle brake drum and front bearing will come out.
4. put nut on shaft tighten 2-3 turns grab drum by sides and pull towards you this should remove drum leaving inner bearing/seal on shaft
5. to replace reverse procedure making sure to pack new bearings w/grease(take drum and use long punch to remove bearing races, use race/seal installer to install new races

with disk brakes

1. remove wheel
2. remove caliper/bracket
3. remove rotor
4. remove 4-bolts from behind,tap old hub out
5. reverse procedure

Switch off machine and unplug it from the wall socket. Remove back plate and identify the heating element. It should be located at the bottom of the outer drum. Remove element and you will have limited access to the space between the drums. Rotate the drum slowly by hand untill the bra wire gets to the bottom of the drum. Remove obstruction with hook or long tweeser.

Bit of a long shot, but I once had a machine with a crack at the root of one of the spokes on the big pulley wheel on the end of the drum - made a nasty noise once every turn as the belt tension came on and off that spoke. Good indicator of this would be if you can make the squeak happen when you turn the drum by hand, but this stops when you take the drive belt off. If the noise is still there with the belt off, try removing the hose that leads from the base of the drum to the pump and use the hole that leaves to try and find if anything (stray bra wire?) has got stuck between inner and fixed drums. Check for the same thing between the front edge of the drum and the back of the door seal. On some machines, you can also get a little access where the condenser plugs into the back of the drum. Finally, give the pulley wheel a good shoogle up/down, left/right and back & forth to check the bearings are OK (another long shot). A