Key fob not working honda jazz 53 reg Battery has been replaced but the locking system does nothing. The central locking works when operated by the button on the drivers door panel. the light on the fob is bright. the fob has not been used for the last 4 days untill today where it does not open the locks.
SOURCE: I need to use my
i also have a MK5 golf tdi with cental locking problem the drivers door wont open from the fob but all the other doors will, i taken the car to a garage last week when it was pluged in to the computer it showed errors they cleared them it sem't to solve the problem now its started again ?
SOURCE: door locks problem with one door drivers door
dont blame the idiot,we all make stupid mistakes without thinking and iam no exception,remove door trim and oil the solonoid with a oil can not a silly sunday mechanic spray and let it soak in as its working but i think its just a bit sticky with wear and dirt ingress hence it locks but doesnt unlock which might need a bit more power,oil the whole lot lock and all
SOURCE: 2004 Honda Accord Euro. Central
I am a mechanic and had the same problem with a 2005 Acord that I purchased couple of months ago. Contact through the trade provided little help. The problem arose during a week that we in Adelaide, South Australia had a record o 40+ degrees centigrade heat. I noticed the drop knob slightly moving when the immobiliser was activated, but the drivers door failed to lock. Key locking would lock all doors however.
The cost of a door actuator from a Honda dealer was $185.00 (Aus), about $250 (US). The spare parts guy told me they had them in stock and sold a number of them. As a result I decided to find out whether the actuator was in fact faulty. I susequently removed the door lock and actuator assembly from the door. (A fiddly type job). The actuator assembly is in a plastic sealed assembly. By using a lot of patience and a box cutter I was able to cut around the assembly and then carefully lever the plastic housing apart. This revealled the small electric motor (similar to a slot car motor) that drove a worm and wheel assembly and a system of cams that actuated the door lock system. I found on dismantling the electric motor that the armature was coated with grease from the wormwheel /cam assembly that is mounted above the motor when installed in the vehicle. I cleaned the armature and brushes using superfine wet and dry carborundum paper, undercut and cleaned out the two armature segments of all remaining grease with a solvent. The motor was then tested with 12 volts and found to be ok. I then reinstalled the motor and glued the housing back together. It now works fine. I believe the housing was either initially overfilled with lubricant or that the high ambient temperature caused the grease to melt and flow into the elecric motor contaminating the motor. (There is no seal between the gearbox and the electric motor). The job took a few hours from start to finish but I saved the cost of purchasing the part and didn't let it beat me.
Cheers and beers
Alistair Buckley
SOURCE: 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager. Central locking
the body control module may need a software update..check with your local dealer
SOURCE: 1999 Audi A3 1.8T Electric Windows and Central Locking Won't work
will your passenger door open with the key and is it just one side that your windows are not working or both. if its just one side it might be your regulator motor in the door thats not working if its both it might be your central locking pump usually in the boot. however if both of them are working fine it could be that your key needs reprogrammed however i think the 1st 2 are more likely to be the problem.
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