Clutch problem on drill??

the quality of the battery pack
there is little difference in drills in the lower quality and what elevates the price is the quality of the battery packs
most run a medium quality batteries in the pack but the really high quality run the up quality batteries

Hi, Claude, W/D here.
In the picture (above), the chuck can be adjusted by operating the yellow ring. Work the ring into several positions, and try the drill at each position. On the yellow band will be a picture of a drill bit, just past the highest number on the ring. Align the picture of the bit with the indicator. This should lock the clutch into the drilling position.
If this doesn't fix you up, you may need to disassemble the drill in order to determine where the problem is.
--W/D--

there should be different settings for the clutch. there is a wheel behind the chuck which you can turn for the settings. If it is set at the high setting the clutch is worn and has to be replaced.

Remove the REVERSE-THREAD screw at the bottom of the chuck. Set the clutch collar to the highest setting, and set the gear to the slowest setting if this drill has a 2 speed transmission. Remove the battery! I have performed this with the battery in back in my noob days, and getting an allen wrench in your rib because you accidently hit the trigger will only happen once. You will never forget that experience. Get the biggest allen wrench you can fit in the end of the chuck(the shortest leg) and tighten the chuck down around it, allowing the jaws to rest and tighten on the flats of the wrench. Lay the drill on its side(chuck toward you, handle to the left, and allen wrench to the left, horizontal to the deck. Then with a hammer(soft hammer if you care about the allen wrench) quickly and deliberately hit the allen wrench in an attempt to cause the allen wrench to spin counter clockwise. You have only a few to several attempts at this before you risk damaging the clutch, so make the first one count. Follow through like you are attempting to hit something 6" below the allen wrench. If this does not do the trick before you shell the clutch/gearbox, you are looking at an expensive undertaking, most likely a new drill. I have only shelled 2 clutches out of literally tens of thousands of chuck repairs, so don't worry, just be aware. Let me know how it goes!

Ensure the clutch collar is turned to where the little drill bit Icon is top dead center of the drill. If this is so, and your gear selector switch is not between gears, you will need a clutch. If this is a 991 Type 1, you may be able to get away with just an output gear, which rides against the ball bearings of the clutch.
392755-00 Output Gear part #. Generally when it is that bad, you will have to remove the clutch from the transmission without taking off the chuck, because the needed resistance for that operation is simply not available.

The grinding you're hearing is the normal sound for the clutch. There's a ring with numbers on it the higer the setting the more torque it'll take for the clutch to slip. Many of the newer drill & drivers have a drill setting at the high end of the clutch settings others have a separate drill & driver setting. This site will give you most everything you need.
http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-electronics/support/Building-Products/Cordless-Tools/Drill-Drivers/model.EY7542LN2L

make sure you speed selector is fully engaged to desired speed, and fully in gauge front dial around chuck to highest #. If problem still continues the clutch is burn out.

keyless chuck. grab the ring immediately behind the chuck and the tampered chuck piece with a padded channel lock plier. turn the chuck part clockwise to release.

Try rotating the driver adjustment to make sure it is on a definate number, not in between or put it all the way to the drill position. A little 3-in-one oil does wonders as dirt and dust will keep it from rotating and engaging easly. If this does not work and the clutch is stripped, cost of rebuilding it is not worth it, usually 70% to 80% of a new one and other parts on it will wear out and you will be fixing it again. Good Luck

I just changed the chuck on my 18 volt xrp half inch hammer drill,yes first you must remove the torx screw with #15 torx bit,note this is a left handed thread screw,knowing the bad chuck was bad I added some heat from a propane torch to the chuck then making sure it was in 1st gear i took some vise grips and the chuck is screwed on with normal right handed threads,it broke loose (was stubborn but needs a lot of torque )ahhhhhh wat a pain.