Ice chute door does not open

Hi Bob,

this is the part number #6421JB2002L you can get it easily online in various sites like sears, appliancepartspros, etc.

hope this helps.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/roger_e8672cfe67bf61a1

On Mine, the solenoid connection fell off that allows the ice to dispense, Thank you so much!

Most Ge refrigerators have a solenoid that is in the door that opens the ice dispenser door. It activates when you push the lever it activates the micro switch. Then sends the signal to the board that sends power to the solenoid and opens the flapper door. Most times the solenoid is either rusted or stuck. You can get part at local appliance parts store but it gets involved to take door apart to repair if one has never done it before. As always if you are not comfortable trying the repair please call a local service technitian.

You may have an issue with one or more of the following:

* icemaker
* dispenser actuator
* ice chute door assembly
* ice dispenser solenoid (if the solenoid is stuck in an open position, the ice chute door/flap would remain open allowing cold air to escape).

Contact an appliance service company.

Solved via another post. Appears that the solenoid that moves the flap needs to be replaced. Already ordered the replacement. It's easy to remove the plastic facing without removing the entire trim around the chute opening. About one inch in at the inside top of the chute area there are three small holes. Starting with the leftmost hole, use a small phillips screwdriver to push up while using the other hand to pull out on the left side of the plastic part that houses the water/ice selection buttons. Then do the center one, followed by the rightmost one. That exposes the inside plastic housing which is removed by taking out the four screws. Its easy to get to the solenoid that has to replaced - unclip the wiring and remove three screws. Then reverse the process.

There is a solenoid that operates the door that could have stopped working. Can you hear it?
The hinge on the door could be broken or the bracket it goes in could be broken. You'll have to look to see what's wrong.

Remove the dispenser cover by gently prying starting at the bottom going round and round a little at a time to prevent from breaking it. When it's off the screws will be exposed to access the other components.

Oddly enough, the problem is with your ice dispenser. What happens is that the door at the bottom of the ice chute is probably not sealed. This is likely because there is a solenoid that is supposed to hold that door open when you push your cup against the dispenser arm, and THEN, close it again when you release. If the chute door is not sealed, warmer, moist air from outside the refridgerator will be canstantly drawn up the chute where the moisture will freeze as frost. Gradually, this frost builds up in the chute until there is no longer enough room foir the ice to fall. You can usually look up at the chute from outside and see that the door is not sealed. In my case, I left it unsealed because the door would not open to let the ice out. It took me about 3 months to figure out that this was causing my frost-clogging problem. The solution is to replace the solenoid that is supposed to open and close the chuite door. If you remove the despenser panel, you will see that this solenoid is probably all rusted up and not working. The following link will allow you to enter you model number and see a diagram of the offending area. http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

the door is opened by a solenoid. it is bad or it is not getting voltage due to bad control or wiring

There is an electric solenoid that opens the door. If you look up inside the dispenser you can see the solenoid. Either the solenoid is bad or the dispenser module that puts power to it is out. You will need to remove dispenser front and check for voltage to solenoid. If you have power from module, replace solenoid, if no power, replace both parts. It is common for solenoid to short out and damage the module so that both must be replaced. If solenoid is shorted and you replace module, new part will fry.

Here's a location for a schematic to let you see what's all inside there. http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Whirlpool/VM1P3RPM.gif