Another Kenmore washer with a bad lid switch.

You will need to replace the lid switch. If you could post the model number under the lid, I will be able to direct you to the part you need.Here is a video to show you how to make the repair.

Sounds to me like the lid switch is bad. The timers hardly ever go out.
Here is a link to the part.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/WHIRLPOOL-Lid-switch-assembly-item-number-AP3100003.aspx

There should be a pressure switch problem. It should have a little tube that runs from the cycle selector switch to the drum. The tube is clogged, pinched, or the switch needs to be replaced. Good Luck!

it mounts to the metal where the lid closes, not on the drum... there's usually two holes where the screws go through... and a third hole where the actuator(plastic post) on the lid goes through to activate the lid switch...

check your lid switch. if your lid swith is bad, it will fill and agitate, but will not pump or spin. therefore it will not go into rinse cycle without being able to pump out water. some lid swithes control the agitation also (usually frigidaire and older maytags), but i doubt yours does. you can check the lid switch for continuity while opening and closing the lid with a meter

This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the lid switch is mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If your washer is not configured in this manner, please post back with your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) so I can confirm how your washer IS configured.

A replacement lid switch can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, you can refer to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks" for links for Replacing a Lid Switch. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know.

The following link explains how to replace a lid switch on a Kenmore top loader:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

Now, unless someone has modified the original lid switch, there is NO soldering required. The defective switch just has a couple of mounting screws holding it in place, along with a ground wire attached to the casing. The entire assembly unplugs from the timer and comes out.

As far as a replacement is concerned, you can order them on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your complete model number (located around the wash tub opening) and the lid switch is usually listed under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. If your lid switch is activated by a lid strike, which is mounted on the washer lid, make sure it is also intact and not broken. The strike is also listed under the same heading. If you do not wish to wait on shipment, take the part numbers listed on the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are standard parts that can commonly be found there.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Check your lid switch. If the lid switch is not making proper contact, or is broken, the washer will fill, agitate (some model washers won't), then just stop when it gets to the spin cycle. If this is what you are experiencing, then this could be a quick and easy repair for you.

Try opening an closing the lid. If you don't hear a clicking noise when the lid closes, the lid switch may be bad or loose. It is mounted under the opening of the tub rim on the right-hand side and held in place with two screws. Make sure the lid strike ( a small plastic piece) is present on the lid as well. This closes the switch contacts when the lid closes. If the lid switch does not function, the washer will not complete a wash cycle.

If the determine the switch and/or lid strike is broken, searspartsdirect.com carries the parts need. Just type in the model number you provided and you will find the lid switch under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item #11 (part #3949238). The Lid Strike is under the same heading as item #20 (part #350733).

If you need advice on how to replace the lid switch please post back and let me know.

If I'm off the mark here, please post back with comments and give me a little more elaboration on what your washer is doing or not doing.

PS You do not need to drain the tub to replace the switch. If you wish to drain it, however, and want to by-pass the lid switch, I can give you instructions on how to do this as well.

You need a new SWITCH, LID 8318084 the bad lid switch is keeping your washer from sorking.. let me know if you want to repair it yourself.. let me know?

someone, Im not finding that model number. Going by the first six digits Im assuming that this is a regular top loader and not an Oasis washer. If so, remove the end caps on the consol by pulling them off. Remove the screws under each end cap and flip the consol up. Unplug the lid switch connector and snap springs holding the cabinet on. The whole cabinet will pull forward and you can get at the lid switch. Check out the pics and post back...Catriver.