Battery won't stay chaRGED NO AMPS SHOWING ON AMMETER.CAN BE STARTED BY JUMP AND WILL RUN BUT STOP AND WILL NOT START AGAIN WHATS MY PROBLEM?

It could be you have a fault in the Diode pack in the alternator you need to get this checked at an alternator repair center.

1. battery is bad. (wont hold a charge ) wont stay at 12.6vdc rested
2. the alternator charage system is not staying at 13.3 to 15v running. any walfart volt meter answers that. fast. a $10 tool.
3. or parked, the battery drains overnight this is called Phantom Drain, we use an ammeter (same tool above)and find that. (a.k.a , dark current)

3 simple tests, and answer is now known.
ask how.
you you have 2 choices, test, or guess.
one is cheap and other is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

DO NOT CONNECT IT to both poles + - !!! the amp meter have very small internal Ressistance, it blows of :) Connect it like in the picture

Often an alarm system will register a low battery voltage and presume the vehicle's battery is being removed to prevent the alarm from going off. They will then begin flashing and or sounding the horn.
In your case, I would presume that the battery voltage is too low which may indicate either a failed battery, or a parasitic voltage drain.

First, get the vehicle started, and run the vehicle for a good twenty or so minutes to get some charge to the battery. If you don't want to waste fuel however doing this, then I suggest using any battery charger, as all we want to do is get some voltage back in the battery. If you are using a charger though, then charge on a lower voltage setting overnight.

Once you have the battery charged, run off any surface charge by turning the vehicle lights on for a minute, then turn them off again.

You need an ammeter for this next part:


Disconnect the battery positive terminal and connect the ammeter in series with the battery and positive lead.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE VEHICLE!

With all vehicle systems off, the key out, doors closed and alarm 'OFF', bonnet close switch depressed, or bonnet/hood clasp closed (need a screwdriver), take a reading from the ammeter.
After probably no more than twenty minutes, the ammeter should be reading 0.03 amps and not much more. Anything like 0.5 or 1 amp means you have a battery drain.
If this is the case, then start by disconnecting the alarm system. If the alarm system has it's own separate speaker/horn, then disconnect this first. Many of these horns have backup batteries, which only last three or four years before they fail, which causes them to constantly draw from the vehicle battery and then flatten it when parked.
Every time you disconnect an item or system, check that ammeter again to see if the amps have returned to normal. Pull fuses one by one, checking the ammeter each time for any change until you find the system which is causing a drain, then attend to that system.

If your amps are normal however and your battery is still loosing charge when parked for any short length of time, i.e. a few days or so, then your battery is at fault and requires replacement.

Just before changing your battery, do one last check, which is with the vehicle running. You need to reconnect any battery cables, and start the vehicle. Using the voltmeter once more, check the voltage across the terminals with the engine running. This is your charging voltage and it should go up to around 14 volts if revving the engine slightly. If still around 12 volts only, then you have a charging issue, which is probably the alternator.

Many batteries may only last around three years. Check battery voltage at rest before starting. Any voltage in the low 12v range may be a sign of a faulty battery.If low voltage present, then perform a parasitic drain test:1) Disconnect battery POSITIVE terminal and connect ammeter in series, between battery positive terminal and positive lead.
DO NOT START THE VEHICLE!!

2) With all vehicle doors closed, alarm off, lights off, radio off, and all other accessories off, wait for around 20 minutes and then read the ammeter. A healthy system should read about 0.03 amps and little more. If reading more, then the vehicle could be suffering a parasitic amp drain, and you will need to locate this issue.


3) Reconnect battery when finished.


If no major parasitic drain present, yet low battery voltage then:


4) With vehicle started, check the voltage charge from the alternator. Connect voltmeter to battery terminals and take reading. A healthy system should be charging in the range of 14volts or down to around 13.5 volts. If reading around 12 volts only, then check and replace alternator.

If you can jump start it and it stays running....I am assuming that you connect the Jumper Cable Ground to something other than your battery. If so, Your negative battery cable is suspect. Check both ends for ANY corrosion or loose connections.

SOUNDS LIKE U HAVE A DEFECTIVE ALTERNATOR.IT WAS CHARING WHEN IT LEFT THE SHOP SO THERE IS NO WIRING ISSUE.BAD ALTERNATOR

At first blush, sounds like corrosion on the battery cables either at the battery or at the other end at the alternator or starter. There are several sprays at the auto parts store that will clear the corrosion but the best way is to remove the cables and clean both the cable ends and the posts. Once you're able to rule out the cables/connections having the charging system checked would be next point of order but its more likely to be the cables. A car that won't run on it's own isn't getting enough power from the alternator so I'd check the negative cable first.

its the battery. the battery holds the charge and the alternator charges it so when you jump the car it stays running because you alternator is providing power when you shut the car off you have a bad battery that isnt holding the charge needed to start it again.

Faulty batteries are rare. Typically when battery won't stay charged an alternator is needed, but you can check for a current drain first. To do this you need an ammeter. Disconnect positive line of battery and connect the circuit "through" the ammeter instead. (DO NOT START THE CAR LIKE THIS!!!). Monitor current draw - as you do so, pull each fuse from fuse panel (left side of dash). Don't pull them all, but rather remove one at a time. When the ammeter shows minimal current drain you'll know which circuit is causing the draw. You can then disconnect individual loads on that curcuit until you find the culprit. Hopefully it's something easy like a light switch - but it could be more involved.