My camper trailer roof mount AC will not turn on. I have replaced the DC battery, power coverter, and checked the a/c breakers. But it will not do anything even though the thermastat is on.

* Check 12 volt DC system (may be camper battery or car battery, though most only use the camper battery.)
* Camper may be using 12 volt DC lights so it can be turned on while your on the road or not hooked up to an 120 VAC or 240 VAC outlet.
* If you are using 120 VAC lights then check the neutral line (note; HIGH voltage here. Get help from an electrician or at least the RV park handyman.) The problem may be at the outlet (the RV site's problem) or more likely in your plug or cable (the big cord) as it does get abused, run over, kinked, etc. Need to have it checked by an electrician.
* Check the light bulbs; is it seated properly? Replace if burnt out. Have electrician test if there is power at the socket.
* Final; Be safe and have a qualified electrician service your camper.
Aloha, ukeboy57

Your trailer has two electrical systems, 12v and 120v. The 12v system has a battery and perhaps a converter/charger to power it. The 120v system must he hooked up to 'shore power.' Both systems have their own protection. The 12v system has a fuse panel, check for power at each fuse. 12v wall switches are often smaller and don't look like typical 120v switches like in a house.

The 120v system has a breaker box and circuit breakers. Reset each breaker by turning off then on again. In addition, the 120v outlets might have a GCFI outlet near a sink. It often is wired first in a breaker circuit, thus giving GCFI protection to other outlets in the circuit. Test the GCFI and make sure it clicks off and can be reset.

Most furnaces are held in by a couple of screws on the front of the unit. It should slide out inside the camper. However, I have found that in some cases that the exhaust tube will be stuck inside the exhaust fixture on the trailer. If your unit seems to be stuck, it is often a benefit to remove the exhaust fixture on the outside of the trailer first. When removing the furnace, be sure to:

-Turn off the gas.
-Turn off all power...AC and DC.
-Check for wasp...you don't want those little guys in the camper with you.
-Take pictures...do this if you are planning to replace parts. It is easy to confuse the wiring.

When replacing the unit:

-Do not over tighten the gas line...over tightening the line will cause it to leak.
-before completing the installation, turn the gas on and bubble test gas connections...this is easily done with a mixture of dish detergent and water. Use a small paint brush to paint the solution onto the gas connections and look for bubbles.
-turn the power back on and test the unit.
-Replace screws and exhaust fixture (if removed).

You're ready to go.

check your breaker and 12 volt dc fuses.

To start with, if it's plugged in to a 15 amp breaker, and extension cord, the compressor starting up may just be enough to trip the breaker. It will draw close to 15 amps on start-up of compressor, and if there is a light extension cord used to plug it in, that only makes it worse. Make sure you shut all other breakers off in panel except AC, and try it. If you have water heater on hydro, fridge on hydro, and then try to start AC compressor, you'll be way over the 15 amps, especially if it's a light extension cord.
Keep in mind, in order for fridge to work, you need 12 volts DC (Battery) power going to back of fridge. If the controls aren't lighting up at top, you've most likely got no 12 Volt DC power going to fridge. Check all fuses as well.

Generic comments follow:

I'm not real clear on what you are asking ... I can almost guarantee you that you will not find a wiring diagram for your trailer.

Your travel trailer operates on 12 V DC. Your frig, the heater, all the lights, radio, all 12 volts. Your running lights should be getting power from the tow vehicle. While towing, the tow vehicle should be charging the battery. You may find some 110 volt lights inside, but probably not. To keep your battery charged, you have 110 Volt AC power coming in. Your frig may run on 110 V AC but it still needs 12 volts for control. Your Air Cond and Microwave and TV (if equipped) will al,so run on 110.

Regarding the three wires from the battery, there should be a battery charger close by your 12 Volt fuse panel. Even though the trailer is a "vehicle" dont depend on using the frame as a ground like you would in a car. So, that accounts for two of the three - a red or black and a white wire. There may be some dedicated line that the battery supplied to account for the third wire.

There should be a emergency breakaway switch on the front of the trailer. This is a switch with a pull pin. If the trailer breaks away, the pin is pulled out by the tow vehicle and the electric brakes should be automatiocally applied to stop the trailer. This switch should be powered, unfused, directly from the traailer battery and go directly to the electric brakes - presuming you have this feature.

Be aware, this trailer power supply was built and designed for a life style far different from that we enjoy today. If you have a 30 amp cord, as I suspect, 30 amps is enough to charge your battery, run your 12 volt items, run a TV and AC or TV and Micro or Micro and AC but not much else. As you are aware, you have two circuits built with #12 and they are probably protected with a 15 amp breaker though the #12 would be protected with 20 amp breaker in a house. The cord is only rated for 30 amps and it may be tired, unless you have replaced it.

I hope I have provided a little insight to your situation. If I can be of further assistance, please let me know.

a

They hide them under seats, in closets, in side storage compartments.

The unit is often a shoebox sized box with a power cable in and cables to the battery out. OFTEN the fuses are located centurally for the whole trailer.

While properly charging, you should see about 13.5 to 14 volts across the battery.

The cover will need to come off .It does sounld like the contactor is wielded shut.the contactor is easy to replace.

It is entirely possible that a five minute test would not produce any noticeable amount of water. Turn off everything in the house that is using electricity and your 20 AMP service will be sufficient to run your AC.

Inverters normaly have inbuilt protection built into them check for reset button/switch.